What is the secret to removing the brake booster vacuum hose from the lower throttle body? Eventually I got it off but broke the tip of it off.
I wrapped the tip in duct tape and it seems to be holding against the o-ring and not leaking.
I was changing the heater return hose under the manifold. Thought it was a good idea after 136k mi and that the heater supply hose was leaking.
The return hose was not leaking but was soft.

 

I have the same issue.I noticed the line connecting to the engine has alot of play I know THAT CANT BE NORMAL ? Is that whats causing the issue? of a vacuum leak?

 

See if this helps

 

I had exactly the same problem when I replaced all of my coolant hoses. I was moving the hose out of the way to get at the coolant hose and I heard SNAP. The heat really takes a toll on the semi-rigid plastic of that brake booster line. After much fiddling and numerous alternatives with tees and new line I gave up because none of the alternatives fit as tight as the original. I was also nervous as the stubb at the throttle body would go all the way into the body if pushed.

The new line is just like the old one but I put some heat shield around it so that maybe I can get some more time out of it before it breaks at the connector. The new one snaps right in the throttle body and fits well. Unfortunately, the hose is not inexpensive.

 

One and a half year (it seems shorter) later the hose is holding very nicely.
There is an o-ring in the throttle body that holds the hose in. I fished out the broken part before replacing the trimmed off piece. The duct tape seems to take the place of the broken off ridge on the hose.
This hose was loose in the throttle body before and still is. No vacuum leaks though.

 

I went nuts trying to figure the way to release that connection!! THe secret is to pull out on the small plastic ring (looks like a washer up against the brass insert) as far as it will go without forcing it (about 1/16 to 1/8 in.) then just pull the vac. line straight out leaving the plastic lock in the brass sleeve. To replace vac. line just put a little wd-40 on the line and push it sraight in. It will lock on it's own. If you brake it, a new sleeve, o-ring, and lock runs $20 at your feindly Jag dealer. It is much easier to take the lock and o-ring out of the new sleeve with a pick and install into your existing sleeve than to try to press the old one out and drive the new sleeve in. Just went through this on my 98 xj8 aj26. johnny screwdriver

 

Thanks, Is there a part number of some sort?

 

well I manage to pull out the locking ring but there is no oring? did it maybe wear out?

 

jimmy, the o-ring should be in the brass sleeve in front of the lock, if not it may have been pushed into the throttle body elbow. Might be good idea to find it so it does'nt get sucked into the engine. I'll get back to you with the part# john

 

ill be honest with you there was never an o ring there. and I was very careful pulling it out.I also noticed that the plastic pc nearly crumbled in my hand.I am going now to the parts dept to show them what I have hopeful I can get a part that is in stock.by all means pls Ill take a part number thank you!

 

Okay I have returned Part # is as follows "c2s15816"

1 brass sleeve
1 o ring
1 locking ring
for those who are looking for this part.

my only question is how am I going to install this onto the vacuum line would it be oring first then the locking device?
(I am assuming the brass sleeve doesn't need installing because I already have one in)

thank you JF.
I just want to make sure before I make things worst I tend to do that...



* do i need to fish the old o ring out? or should it come out when I pull on the line?*

 

jimmy, make sure your old o-ring is not in your brass sleeve. It does not come out with the vac. line. To assemble you put the o-ring into the sleeve making sure it seats against the seat/ridge at the back of the sleeve, Then install the lock. It will click into place as you push it in the sleeve. Then all you have to do is spray a bit of light lube (wd40) on your vac. tube and push it straight in till it clicks into place. All done!!!! john

 

all done. thx everyone! And very easy too.just gotta be slow about it.And Btw the oring was hard as a rock it nearly crumbled in my hands as well as the locking ring.

Now I am experiencing hard down shifts.
When I had a vacuum leak I figured the hard down shifting was due to that..But now I am starting to realize it could be a motor mount or trany mount I feel it on the floor..any thoughts? .

and thank you JF .
I always try to be helpful to other as you are to me...much appreciated!

 

I'm glad I found this, thanks guys. I broke my black locking ring when removing the elbow from the pipe...and the o-ring was extremely brittle. Busted it getting it out of the brass sleeve.

 

When I removed the brake booster pipe from the throttle body I used a fingernail to push the brass sleeve in while pulling the pipe out. I believe that is how it's supposed to release.

 

U mean the black locking ring needs to stay pressed against the brass sleeve, then pull on the vacuum line?

 

I think that's what he means, if anyone's used John Guest connectors in plumbing, these work the same way, push in the surrounding collar, and pull the tube out.

 

Yeah, what Sean said. It's kinda like Chinese handcuffs.

 

no wonder mine broke, and probably jimmycruz above. We were doing it backwards!

 

So, the part C2S15816 will fit to X308 XJR as I understand, any chance it will fit also on my late XJ8? I just broke one "jaw" of my fixing ring and I suspect some vacuum is lost there. The Jaguar classic parts don't recognize the code; I found it on Manners site at 8,45 pounds.