Brembo Calipers!
The pictured calipers are from a X350 ~ anything works with enough time and money. X308 or X100 (xkr 1889-2006) calipers are a much simpler fit.
Some notes from my conversion (pictures in my profile):
14x1.5 tap: i went with a HHS tap as i knew the caliper hole is slightly smaller then the tap hole should be. HHS taps hold their edge and are stronger then high carbon steel taps.
A tap socket: You will need to add an extension to the tap socket to clear the hub. I would use a T handle not a ratchet to turn the socket. Taping the hole straight is the most important part of the entire job. I took my time and checked the tap from as many angles as i could.
Tap lube: Its a tight hole through Cast iron some good Tap or drill lube with lots of sulfur help alot. MOTOR OIL IS NOT A CUTTING LUBRICANT!!
M14 bolts: four bolts in total they are m14 x 45mm(i think this long might be 40) long. I bought the bolts from the jag dealer for a total rip off as they turned out to be common flange head grade 10.9 bolts. If you wanted to use a different thread m14 bolt i don't think it would be a big deal just get the corresponding tap. the important part is to use a flange head bolt be it allen or hex.
Brake lines: The rear lines are the same as stock just SS (the caliper banjo is slightly offset don't think it mattes much). Front lines are the same length as stock, but have a different end that seals on a copper washer instead of a taper (the brembo has a taper drilled into the bottom so i dont know why they did it this way). I had custom aeroquip ss lines made for $38 for all 4. I think jag wanted 100-150 each...... The calipers i bought came from a wreckers so the lines were cut. I took the caliper end fittings and OEM lines and mailed them to the engineering shop to be made. The rear OEM lines have a provision to be clipped to the chassis ware they meet the solid brake line. The lines i had made could not have this provision some hose split longways to slide over and some zip ties is holding everything together snugly. I would guess aftermarket SS Goodrich lines for an XK8 would work and snap into the rear mounts correctly. Take a look at post 11
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...uestion-84319/
Front lines might work if you modified the ends on the caliper side. Still cheaper then the dealer even if you just use 2 lines from the kit.
Rear dust shields: you will have to trim the outer lip off that covers the top of the rotor. Very obvious when u slip the dinner plates on the hub.
Front Dust Shields: I removed them. I knew when i bought the car i would put brembos so i left the front dust shields off when i replaced both front wheel bearings. There is a tab that slides in between the hub and lower ball joint. you can cut the tap at the dust shield to so it can be removed with out separating the ball joint. Jaguar added this tap to reduce or eliminate any dust shield clatter.
Brake fluid: the brembos have 2 bleeders per caliper. Bleed inner then outter
Rotor options: I found XJR fitment was the same as XKR brembo fitment. I opted for XKR non Drilled (normal looking) disks front and rear. Not as cool looking but i figured they would be less noisy then the drilled version: So far no squeaks.
Performance: Huge improvement from 70mph or more. The front end of my car gets sucked down as i shed speed! Going slow is about the same: i dont notice a difference.
Pedal Feel: the early cars have a "mushy" pedal feel its a little firmer but still feels similar, other then stopping on a time at speed. Late cars have a redesigned pedal box and booster i believe they feel firmer.
Some notes from my conversion (pictures in my profile):
14x1.5 tap: i went with a HHS tap as i knew the caliper hole is slightly smaller then the tap hole should be. HHS taps hold their edge and are stronger then high carbon steel taps.
A tap socket: You will need to add an extension to the tap socket to clear the hub. I would use a T handle not a ratchet to turn the socket. Taping the hole straight is the most important part of the entire job. I took my time and checked the tap from as many angles as i could.
Tap lube: Its a tight hole through Cast iron some good Tap or drill lube with lots of sulfur help alot. MOTOR OIL IS NOT A CUTTING LUBRICANT!!
M14 bolts: four bolts in total they are m14 x 45mm(i think this long might be 40) long. I bought the bolts from the jag dealer for a total rip off as they turned out to be common flange head grade 10.9 bolts. If you wanted to use a different thread m14 bolt i don't think it would be a big deal just get the corresponding tap. the important part is to use a flange head bolt be it allen or hex.
Brake lines: The rear lines are the same as stock just SS (the caliper banjo is slightly offset don't think it mattes much). Front lines are the same length as stock, but have a different end that seals on a copper washer instead of a taper (the brembo has a taper drilled into the bottom so i dont know why they did it this way). I had custom aeroquip ss lines made for $38 for all 4. I think jag wanted 100-150 each...... The calipers i bought came from a wreckers so the lines were cut. I took the caliper end fittings and OEM lines and mailed them to the engineering shop to be made. The rear OEM lines have a provision to be clipped to the chassis ware they meet the solid brake line. The lines i had made could not have this provision some hose split longways to slide over and some zip ties is holding everything together snugly. I would guess aftermarket SS Goodrich lines for an XK8 would work and snap into the rear mounts correctly. Take a look at post 11
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...uestion-84319/
Front lines might work if you modified the ends on the caliper side. Still cheaper then the dealer even if you just use 2 lines from the kit.
Rear dust shields: you will have to trim the outer lip off that covers the top of the rotor. Very obvious when u slip the dinner plates on the hub.
Front Dust Shields: I removed them. I knew when i bought the car i would put brembos so i left the front dust shields off when i replaced both front wheel bearings. There is a tab that slides in between the hub and lower ball joint. you can cut the tap at the dust shield to so it can be removed with out separating the ball joint. Jaguar added this tap to reduce or eliminate any dust shield clatter.
Brake fluid: the brembos have 2 bleeders per caliper. Bleed inner then outter
Rotor options: I found XJR fitment was the same as XKR brembo fitment. I opted for XKR non Drilled (normal looking) disks front and rear. Not as cool looking but i figured they would be less noisy then the drilled version: So far no squeaks.
Performance: Huge improvement from 70mph or more. The front end of my car gets sucked down as i shed speed! Going slow is about the same: i dont notice a difference.
Pedal Feel: the early cars have a "mushy" pedal feel its a little firmer but still feels similar, other then stopping on a time at speed. Late cars have a redesigned pedal box and booster i believe they feel firmer.
I just want to do the fronts, already bought discs, and calipers, wish there were brackets. So do I need xkr spindles? The brake lines I can source, just trying to make this easy without getting complicated.
Vertical Link MXD 1628/9 AA
Dust Shield MXD 1632/3 AA
I do not know what the difference is between the standard and 'R' option Vertical Links. It could be the spacing or length of the "ears" to which the brake caliper bolts. You may try fit one rotor on your standard Vertical Link and bring the Brembo caliper in. Then you will see whether it is possible to bolt the caliper on with some modification or whether you have to get the 'R' option Vertical Links.
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The only difference brembo to non brembo vertical link:
Brembo threaded for m14x1.5
Non brembo slip fit for m12 bolt
I simply tapped the stock link, no issue. the thread fit is slightly looser end for m14x1.5(m12 clearance is slightly oversize for m14x1.5 fit); installing timesert's has been recommended in prior posts.
Brembo threaded for m14x1.5
Non brembo slip fit for m12 bolt
I simply tapped the stock link, no issue. the thread fit is slightly looser end for m14x1.5(m12 clearance is slightly oversize for m14x1.5 fit); installing timesert's has been recommended in prior posts.
The maximum hole diameter to tap to M14 is 12.20 mm. This diameter also happens to be the standard clearance diameter for M12 bolts. If the holes in the standard Vertical Link are no more than 12.20 mm, they can straight be tapped to M14.
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