buying a 2000 xj8
Hello, I was looking at buying a 2000 xj8. the seller claims all it needs is a starter. are there other things i should look at or be concerned about? the body is in good shape from what I've seen. I've never owned a Jag before but love the body style and just wandering if there are other things i need to be wary of. thank you nfor any feed back!
Mileage, price, service records? Given those wheels and tires, I would be very cautious. Maybe ask him to have an alternator/starter shop replace the starter, first; then talk. Without being able to drive it, hear the engine, this deal smells! At least check the OBD codes.
Hey Yellow! Purchasing any car I couldn't hear run is always a gamble, Ive done it, but I've always paid just above wrecking yard prices ( meaning I'd get most of my money back if it was a bust.) Without knowing your mechanical abilities, It's hard to advise. Depends on how cheap, but if you don't know if it runs, I'd not open my wallet up too terribly far. That being said, it is pretty.
(I paid under a grand for a running, lot driving XK8 recently, lol.)
good luck!
(I paid under a grand for a running, lot driving XK8 recently, lol.)
good luck!
Last edited by Feral Barncat; Jan 31, 2026 at 02:12 PM.
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I'm somewhat mechanically competent but yeah, this guy is asking for 1,000 was gonna see if I could talk him down to 600 or 700. not sure what the scrap value would be but figured it'd be close to that
But other than timing chain and tensioners and the A-drum, these are known for needing at this age: new transmission valve body housing and main pressure regulator valve, ABS module, something we call the Octopus hose and the two suicide hoses under the intake manifold, thermostat tower, crossover pipe, auxiliary heater pump, shock mounts (well virtually ALL of the suspension bushes at this age), in-tank fuel pump, stretched door latch cable, stretched/broken hood latch cable, water pump, auto-dimming rearview mirror, headliner sagging, valve cover gaskets leaking, front and rear main seals leaking, oil galley plug leaking between the engine and transmission, disintegrated exterior trim and weatherstrip if its been out in the sun, buzzing/rattling stereo speakers, and probably dozens more common automotive geriatric conditions that I'm too senile myself to recall. It doesn't take very many of those items to add up to more than the car will ever be worth so be careful. Really, it'd be better to buy one at full retail from an enthusiast/Jaguar club member who has owned it for decades and already done each of those jobs one-by-one over time.
"No Records = No Sale"
Personally, I would make an agreement to buy the car ONLY after the starter problem
was resolved. Without that, one could be on the hook for not only the towing to the shop,
the cost of labor and the cost of the starter, but also towing and storage if the starter did
not get the car drivable. Then having to dispose of the car or repair whatever else may be
disclosed at that time.
was resolved. Without that, one could be on the hook for not only the towing to the shop,
the cost of labor and the cost of the starter, but also towing and storage if the starter did
not get the car drivable. Then having to dispose of the car or repair whatever else may be
disclosed at that time.
Oh My! The dents on this car would be a non-starter for me and the wheels make me wonder what else non-standard is going on. If it won't start and run, I'd personally pass and keep looking for a car in better condition. The advice offered in earlier posts are all valid.
The problem of course is that a non-running car with hall damage and a lack of records will ALWAYS be a cheap car no matter how much money gets spent trying to get it to work…
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