There is no point in doing what you plan to do as the head most probably has a number of bent valves. The head has to come off and, if there is no other damage, replace the bent valves, lap all valves, check the head for any warping and reinstall. Then comes the cam timing but, if you want to have a good engine, you would need to replace the whole of the timing gear (all chains, guides and tensioners) and inspect the other head too. The fact that one chain broke suggests that the whole of the timing gear is way long overdue for replacement.

 

 

If you want to do an approximate setting of the cam (which I don't really recommend), position the "good" intake cam with the flat spot up (parallel to the cam cover gasket surface) and install the exhaust cam with its flat in the same position. Then you have to use some kind of strong flat piece across the flats of the two cams and bolted to the head so that it holds the exhaust cam firmly in position. Then, you have to find a way to also hold very firmly the cam sprocket while tightening the sprocket bolt. Quite hard to do it without the timing tool kit (which is rather cheap) but you can make the two pieces - the flat and a fork-like pin-spanner to hold the sprocket. Then it would be good to also remove the cam cover of the other bank and see whether the flats of the other two cams are also in parallel up-position.

As I said, not much logic in doing this as the exhaust valves are bent. Also, you need to (after removing the head and all valves) check whether the exhaust cam is turning freely inside the head - perhaps it jammed for some reason in its bearings and caused the chain to brake. Very important: I trust that you are aware that the cam caps are numbered and must be installed with their numbers in correct running order, failing which the cam may seize or even break.

 

Yep, valves meeting pistons I'm afraid. Your outlook on this subject, let's be honest, the engine is toast.

 

You can do a leakdown test for bent valves without taking it apart. It will fail. Sorry.

 

Good idea - actually, a simpler compression test with the exhaust cam removed would provide sufficient information about bent exhaust valves.

 

Not necessarily "toast" engine - the valve stems are so thin (only 5 mm) that they bend easily and there could be practically no damage to the piston crowns or valve guides. If lucky, the exhaust valves could be the only thing to replace (and not all of them may be bent).

 

The OP isn't about to deep pocket this project, hence my opinion. I've assumed that the 'loud knocking' is one of the many I've seen with wrist pin/con rod bearing damage (snapped valves) = toast, a parts car.
If you throw enough time and money at something you can fix it, it's about economics.

 

I just fixed one. Valves had not hit the piston. Don't undo the sprocket. Just make sure both flats are in alignment and fit the chain, timing will still be perfect. Fingers crossed on the valves. Of course, you can crank it with the exhaust cam removed and check compression on those four cylinders.

 

Do a complete search of this forum: Danielsand, back about four years ago, had the same problem. He replaced the broken link; adjusted the exhaust camshaft, as noted above. Held his breath: started and ran fine. My local Indy told me he saw the same lucky deal maybe one in five.