Doing the Timing STR... Timing Tool removal??
Im doing the Timing in my STR and I dont have a working JTIS.
So far I have it all done, but all I need is the last few steps... And just in case, "yes" I'm using the Jaguar needed timing tools.
In other words should I remove the Cam timing tool (holder), before tighting the CAM gears? Or should I tighting them before removing the Timing CAM (holder) tool?
Whats the Sequence???
Thanks,
JG
So far I have it all done, but all I need is the last few steps... And just in case, "yes" I'm using the Jaguar needed timing tools.
In other words should I remove the Cam timing tool (holder), before tighting the CAM gears? Or should I tighting them before removing the Timing CAM (holder) tool?
Whats the Sequence???
Thanks,
JG
vance580,
The car overheated without any warnings. The Temp needle never even moved above half way (weird)... I had a leaking returning line wich connects to the coolant resevoir... Well I replaced the Head Gaskets and
The car overheated without any warnings. The Temp needle never even moved above half way (weird)... I had a leaking returning line wich connects to the coolant resevoir... Well I replaced the Head Gaskets and
- The machineshop did a Valve job, and also shaved the heads .010
- I ported the Headers. Now I have about 1Lb (from metal shavings), or maybe even more? (done)
- I have high flow CATs and 2.5" 45degrees bends that I bought...
- I'm planing in a Cold air intake. (very soon)
- 3Lbs Pulley intalled already (done)
- Ported and polished the SC (done)
- Crossed drill Rotors (soon), whenever I get around doing my brakes (next!)
Last edited by mystype04; Mar 25, 2011 at 01:50 PM.
You do not remove the tools until everyrthing is done. You do pull the grenade pins before tightening the sprockets to put the tension on the correct side or timing will be off. And you need to hold the sprockets stationary while tightening
vance580,
The car overheated without any warnings. The Temp needle never even moved above half way (weird)... I had a leaking returning line wich connects to the coolant resevoir... Well I replaced the Head Gaskets and
The car overheated without any warnings. The Temp needle never even moved above half way (weird)... I had a leaking returning line wich connects to the coolant resevoir... Well I replaced the Head Gaskets and
- The machineshop did a Valve job, and also shaved the heads .010
- I ported the Headers. Now I have about 1Lb (from metal shavings), or maybe even more? (done)
- I have high flow CATs and 2.5" 45degrees bends that I bought...
- I'm planing in a Cold air intake. (very soon)
- 3Lbs Pulley intalled already (done)
- Ported and polished the SC (done)
- Crossed drill Rotors (soon), whenever I get around doing my brakes (next!)
vance580, yes I just did a regular Head Gasket replacement. I was very tempted to do some grinding and polishing, but I have done it in the past (in my Northstar Fiero), and it is quite a bit of work... So for what is worth I do have a bit more compression, since the heads were shaved .010. Although I have to say there was enough carbon build up throughout the whole intake system: Intercoolers, TB, intake runners, Valves and SC, all in general it was very contaminated with carbon. But the car did feel powerful then; I just think that now it will feel even better! Whoever had this car was using very cheap gas. Even the pistons were clogged…
LOL, most likely I did gained some HP with the just the cleaning alone!!! Aside from the possibility of the previous owner using cheap gasoline, what I found more interesting was to know that this is a “true” prove that these cars do run with a rich mixture of gasoline from factory. Without a doubt it is probably to keep the engine temperatures safe and the detonation away. This is why we all can upgrade: Exhaust, intake and pulley without tuning.. =)
JG
LOL, most likely I did gained some HP with the just the cleaning alone!!! Aside from the possibility of the previous owner using cheap gasoline, what I found more interesting was to know that this is a “true” prove that these cars do run with a rich mixture of gasoline from factory. Without a doubt it is probably to keep the engine temperatures safe and the detonation away. This is why we all can upgrade: Exhaust, intake and pulley without tuning.. =)
JG
Last edited by mystype04; Mar 28, 2011 at 04:25 PM.
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vance580, yes I just did a regular Head Gasket replacement. I was very tempted to do some grinding and polishing, but I have done it in the past (in my Northstar Fiero), and it is quite a bit of work... So for what is worth I do have a bit more compression, since the heads were shaved .010. Although I have to say there was enough carbon build up throughout the whole intake system: Intercoolers, TB, intake runners, Valves and SC, all in general it was very contaminated with carbon. But the car did feel powerful then; I just think that now it will feel even better! Whoever had this car was using very cheap gas. Even the pistons were clogged…
LOL, most likely I did gained some HP with the just the cleaning alone!!! Aside from the possibility of the previous owner using cheap gasoline, what I found more interesting was to know that this is a “true” prove that these cars do run with a rich mixture of gasoline from factory. Without a doubt it is probably to keep the engine temperatures safe and the detonation away. This is why we all can upgrade: Exhaust, intake and pulley without tuning.. =)
JG
LOL, most likely I did gained some HP with the just the cleaning alone!!! Aside from the possibility of the previous owner using cheap gasoline, what I found more interesting was to know that this is a “true” prove that these cars do run with a rich mixture of gasoline from factory. Without a doubt it is probably to keep the engine temperatures safe and the detonation away. This is why we all can upgrade: Exhaust, intake and pulley without tuning.. =)
JG
You'll need the timing kit to time the motor . The heads and flywheel should be locked and tensioner have pins in them. There is a special tool to hold the exhaust gear in place to tighten the bolts up. According to the workshop manual those bolts HAVE TO BE REPLACED . you can buy the kit on eBay .
You'll need the timing kit to time the motor . The heads and flywheel should be locked and tensioner have pins in them. There is a special tool to hold the exhaust gear in place to tighten the bolts up. According to the workshop manual those bolts HAVE TO BE REPLACED . you can buy the kit on eBay .
I would guess the problem is sorted by now?
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