Doing the Timing STR... Timing Tool removal??
#1
Doing the Timing STR... Timing Tool removal??
Im doing the Timing in my STR and I dont have a working JTIS.
So far I have it all done, but all I need is the last few steps... And just in case, "yes" I'm using the Jaguar needed timing tools.
In other words should I remove the Cam timing tool (holder), before tighting the CAM gears? Or should I tighting them before removing the Timing CAM (holder) tool?
Whats the Sequence???
Thanks,
JG
So far I have it all done, but all I need is the last few steps... And just in case, "yes" I'm using the Jaguar needed timing tools.
In other words should I remove the Cam timing tool (holder), before tighting the CAM gears? Or should I tighting them before removing the Timing CAM (holder) tool?
Whats the Sequence???
Thanks,
JG
#3
vance580,
The car overheated without any warnings. The Temp needle never even moved above half way (weird)... I had a leaking returning line wich connects to the coolant resevoir... Well I replaced the Head Gaskets and
The car overheated without any warnings. The Temp needle never even moved above half way (weird)... I had a leaking returning line wich connects to the coolant resevoir... Well I replaced the Head Gaskets and
- The machineshop did a Valve job, and also shaved the heads .010
- I ported the Headers. Now I have about 1Lb (from metal shavings), or maybe even more? (done)
- I have high flow CATs and 2.5" 45degrees bends that I bought...
- I'm planing in a Cold air intake. (very soon)
- 3Lbs Pulley intalled already (done)
- Ported and polished the SC (done)
- Crossed drill Rotors (soon), whenever I get around doing my brakes (next!)
Last edited by mystype04; 03-25-2011 at 01:50 PM.
#4
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#6
vance580,
The car overheated without any warnings. The Temp needle never even moved above half way (weird)... I had a leaking returning line wich connects to the coolant resevoir... Well I replaced the Head Gaskets and
The car overheated without any warnings. The Temp needle never even moved above half way (weird)... I had a leaking returning line wich connects to the coolant resevoir... Well I replaced the Head Gaskets and
- The machineshop did a Valve job, and also shaved the heads .010
- I ported the Headers. Now I have about 1Lb (from metal shavings), or maybe even more? (done)
- I have high flow CATs and 2.5" 45degrees bends that I bought...
- I'm planing in a Cold air intake. (very soon)
- 3Lbs Pulley intalled already (done)
- Ported and polished the SC (done)
- Crossed drill Rotors (soon), whenever I get around doing my brakes (next!)
#7
vance580, yes I just did a regular Head Gasket replacement. I was very tempted to do some grinding and polishing, but I have done it in the past (in my Northstar Fiero), and it is quite a bit of work... So for what is worth I do have a bit more compression, since the heads were shaved .010. Although I have to say there was enough carbon build up throughout the whole intake system: Intercoolers, TB, intake runners, Valves and SC, all in general it was very contaminated with carbon. But the car did feel powerful then; I just think that now it will feel even better! Whoever had this car was using very cheap gas. Even the pistons were clogged…
LOL, most likely I did gained some HP with the just the cleaning alone!!! Aside from the possibility of the previous owner using cheap gasoline, what I found more interesting was to know that this is a “true” prove that these cars do run with a rich mixture of gasoline from factory. Without a doubt it is probably to keep the engine temperatures safe and the detonation away. This is why we all can upgrade: Exhaust, intake and pulley without tuning.. =)
JG
LOL, most likely I did gained some HP with the just the cleaning alone!!! Aside from the possibility of the previous owner using cheap gasoline, what I found more interesting was to know that this is a “true” prove that these cars do run with a rich mixture of gasoline from factory. Without a doubt it is probably to keep the engine temperatures safe and the detonation away. This is why we all can upgrade: Exhaust, intake and pulley without tuning.. =)
JG
Last edited by mystype04; 03-28-2011 at 04:25 PM.
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#8
vance580, yes I just did a regular Head Gasket replacement. I was very tempted to do some grinding and polishing, but I have done it in the past (in my Northstar Fiero), and it is quite a bit of work... So for what is worth I do have a bit more compression, since the heads were shaved .010. Although I have to say there was enough carbon build up throughout the whole intake system: Intercoolers, TB, intake runners, Valves and SC, all in general it was very contaminated with carbon. But the car did feel powerful then; I just think that now it will feel even better! Whoever had this car was using very cheap gas. Even the pistons were clogged…
LOL, most likely I did gained some HP with the just the cleaning alone!!! Aside from the possibility of the previous owner using cheap gasoline, what I found more interesting was to know that this is a “true” prove that these cars do run with a rich mixture of gasoline from factory. Without a doubt it is probably to keep the engine temperatures safe and the detonation away. This is why we all can upgrade: Exhaust, intake and pulley without tuning.. =)
JG
LOL, most likely I did gained some HP with the just the cleaning alone!!! Aside from the possibility of the previous owner using cheap gasoline, what I found more interesting was to know that this is a “true” prove that these cars do run with a rich mixture of gasoline from factory. Without a doubt it is probably to keep the engine temperatures safe and the detonation away. This is why we all can upgrade: Exhaust, intake and pulley without tuning.. =)
JG
#10
Timing
You'll need the timing kit to time the motor . The heads and flywheel should be locked and tensioner have pins in them. There is a special tool to hold the exhaust gear in place to tighten the bolts up. According to the workshop manual those bolts HAVE TO BE REPLACED . you can buy the kit on eBay .
#11
You'll need the timing kit to time the motor . The heads and flywheel should be locked and tensioner have pins in them. There is a special tool to hold the exhaust gear in place to tighten the bolts up. According to the workshop manual those bolts HAVE TO BE REPLACED . you can buy the kit on eBay .
I would guess the problem is sorted by now?
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