Cold engine sound
Hi guys,
When the engine is cold and running, it makes a clicking sound. Afterwards when the engine is warm the sound disappears.
I tried to upload the video and wasn't possible. So I share with you a dropbox link with the video. The clicking sound is between 0:08-0:11
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/39h5pcdof...obhL0KgPa?dl=0
I do have a meeting next week with a specialist for fixing a few electrical gremlins so I would like to have your opinion before he gives any crazy info.
Thank you,
Dimitris
When the engine is cold and running, it makes a clicking sound. Afterwards when the engine is warm the sound disappears.
I tried to upload the video and wasn't possible. So I share with you a dropbox link with the video. The clicking sound is between 0:08-0:11
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/39h5pcdof...obhL0KgPa?dl=0
I do have a meeting next week with a specialist for fixing a few electrical gremlins so I would like to have your opinion before he gives any crazy info.
Thank you,
Dimitris
DearEric,
Thank you for your interest, unfortunately I have no idea about engines. Right now I am uploading a second video with the same engine noise with the engine warm after a 1/2 hour drive. i think except the electrical gremlins on my left door window switches I 'll have to look at this too with the specialist.
Is it something that needs immediate care or I can leave with it for a while? (I mean if it is valve or injector)
Thank you for your interest, unfortunately I have no idea about engines. Right now I am uploading a second video with the same engine noise with the engine warm after a 1/2 hour drive. i think except the electrical gremlins on my left door window switches I 'll have to look at this too with the specialist.
Is it something that needs immediate care or I can leave with it for a while? (I mean if it is valve or injector)
I watched both video's, but it is really hard to locate the exact location without actually being there.
As you are not technically challenged, it is probably better to bring it to a technician for a check in stead of keep driving it.
He should be able to locate the exact cause of the noise, then focus in.
If it is an injector, he might advise you to run some cleaner like Seafoam (hot topic discussion on the effectiveness, but it will do no harm), or advise you to have the injectors professionally cleaned.
Then on the window operation you mentioned; I am not sure what your problem is, but the door switch is known to behave erratic, especially if disconnected for whatever reason.
Try to a 'hard reset', which is basically loosening the NEGATIVE on the battery (located in the trunk), and hold it on the POSITIVE for 10-30 seconds, then connect again.
This will discharge any remaining current, and completely reset all control boxes, incl. the one for the window operation.
Search this forum on 'hard reset' and will be clear how to do it, even with pictures, very simple, and just 5 min job.
E.
As you are not technically challenged, it is probably better to bring it to a technician for a check in stead of keep driving it.
He should be able to locate the exact cause of the noise, then focus in.
If it is an injector, he might advise you to run some cleaner like Seafoam (hot topic discussion on the effectiveness, but it will do no harm), or advise you to have the injectors professionally cleaned.
Then on the window operation you mentioned; I am not sure what your problem is, but the door switch is known to behave erratic, especially if disconnected for whatever reason.
Try to a 'hard reset', which is basically loosening the NEGATIVE on the battery (located in the trunk), and hold it on the POSITIVE for 10-30 seconds, then connect again.
This will discharge any remaining current, and completely reset all control boxes, incl. the one for the window operation.
Search this forum on 'hard reset' and will be clear how to do it, even with pictures, very simple, and just 5 min job.
E.
The hard reset will probably fix your window; if not, need to remove the switch and clean it.
The engine noise is much louder when cold and louder on the left side of the engine. I would start with changing the engine oil. Then a cleaner to clean up the fuel injectors. Also, you might check to see if the spark plugs on the left side are torqued correctly (maybe even need to be renewed if they are old or original plugs).
Best choice: find a good local mechanic with a stethoscope. Pay for the oil and filter change and ask his advice on the noise (the video was good, but as Eric pointed out, much better to be there and listen carefully). Maybe somebody familiar with the supercharged engine might point out other possibilities.
The engine noise is much louder when cold and louder on the left side of the engine. I would start with changing the engine oil. Then a cleaner to clean up the fuel injectors. Also, you might check to see if the spark plugs on the left side are torqued correctly (maybe even need to be renewed if they are old or original plugs).
Best choice: find a good local mechanic with a stethoscope. Pay for the oil and filter change and ask his advice on the noise (the video was good, but as Eric pointed out, much better to be there and listen carefully). Maybe somebody familiar with the supercharged engine might point out other possibilities.
Last edited by Jhartz; Feb 27, 2016 at 09:55 AM.
Big THANKS to both of you for the advice.
I will research further for sure. As I wrote I have my apointment this coming week for the electrics and as he is a jaguar specialist I will ask him for the noise too. Oil change is scheduled for end of this coming week too.
"The problem with the window switches on my door panel is that the drivers window doesn't move at all (its on the top position, so no water or cold comes in) the co drivers window I can move up and down and the two rear windows when I press the switch the go all the way down and if I want to close them I have to do it from the switches on their doors. "
I am not a DIY person and I do now that if I start fixing something the bill in the end will be bigger. Oh OK i can do some DIY, today I fixed the ceiling with staples (it was loose and touching the rear passengers heads)but I would go further than that.
kind regards,
Dimitrios
I will research further for sure. As I wrote I have my apointment this coming week for the electrics and as he is a jaguar specialist I will ask him for the noise too. Oil change is scheduled for end of this coming week too.
"The problem with the window switches on my door panel is that the drivers window doesn't move at all (its on the top position, so no water or cold comes in) the co drivers window I can move up and down and the two rear windows when I press the switch the go all the way down and if I want to close them I have to do it from the switches on their doors. "
I am not a DIY person and I do now that if I start fixing something the bill in the end will be bigger. Oh OK i can do some DIY, today I fixed the ceiling with staples (it was loose and touching the rear passengers heads)but I would go further than that.
kind regards,
Dimitrios
Trending Topics
Quarter inch (6mm) staples are what I did, has held for nearly three years.
Many folks Have repaired a hung window control with a simple hard battery reset. You are going to feel silly when the technician charges you €150 . . .
Be sure to let us know what you find; it's how we learn.
Many folks Have repaired a hung window control with a simple hard battery reset. You are going to feel silly when the technician charges you €150 . . .
Be sure to let us know what you find; it's how we learn.
Last edited by Jhartz; Feb 27, 2016 at 12:43 PM.
I did the hard reset yesterday. My mileage looks much better now. Unfortunately the window switchpack is not fixed. I am searching through the net to find a replacement..
Thank you all for the advice. you made me guys love my Jag. bit more. ;-)
Thank you all for the advice. you made me guys love my Jag. bit more. ;-)
For the reset of your window regulator, the best way is to remove the driver door panel and you will see a box in the bottom middle with two large connectors going to it with metal retainers. There are 2 screws holding it in, remove them, then pull out and up on the box up and disconnect the connectors (by picking up on the metal retainers and they'll release). If you try to remove the connectors without the picking up the metal tabs, you'll break the plastic holding pins to the case (not a huge issue, but why break what you don't have to). Leave disconnected for about 5 minutes then reconnect it. Before reinstalling the unit put your car on accessory and try the window, it should work. If it doesn't, then you'll have the part in hand and panel off to replace it.
To remove the panel, you need to take a tiny flat head screw driver to the small screw cover behind the door release handle, unscrew the screw and pull the plastic piece off while holding the handle out. Next you need to remove the wood panel, ...pick up lightly on the side toward the lock, getting your fingers under it and gently message it out until it release from the push clip. Try to do this evenly moving farther up the wood so as not to crack the veneer finish. Once the clips release, slide it back and off. Then under the door control armrest at the top of the hand hold area is another screw (kind of long). After removing that, simply pop the panel forward starting in one of the bottom corners and make your way around until its loose. There's a large tab on the lock side about 10 inches in and up the aligns install of the panel, it may fight you a little, but get you hand in there and help it out.
Be careful pulling your panel off, you will probably snap a couple of the plastic push in holders. They are cheaply available on ebay for replacement. Once that is done, pick up on the panel over the lock pin, then carefully pulling it away from the door and set is down between the door and body still connected via the wiring. Your control box will be right in front of you in the door on the bottom.
To reinstall, just reverse the procedure, be sure to align the large tab after putting the panel on and everything should align with a little persuasion and push togther. This sounds tedious, but its really not, its about a 5 minute deal to remove the panel and another 2 to put it back together.
To remove the panel, you need to take a tiny flat head screw driver to the small screw cover behind the door release handle, unscrew the screw and pull the plastic piece off while holding the handle out. Next you need to remove the wood panel, ...pick up lightly on the side toward the lock, getting your fingers under it and gently message it out until it release from the push clip. Try to do this evenly moving farther up the wood so as not to crack the veneer finish. Once the clips release, slide it back and off. Then under the door control armrest at the top of the hand hold area is another screw (kind of long). After removing that, simply pop the panel forward starting in one of the bottom corners and make your way around until its loose. There's a large tab on the lock side about 10 inches in and up the aligns install of the panel, it may fight you a little, but get you hand in there and help it out.
Be careful pulling your panel off, you will probably snap a couple of the plastic push in holders. They are cheaply available on ebay for replacement. Once that is done, pick up on the panel over the lock pin, then carefully pulling it away from the door and set is down between the door and body still connected via the wiring. Your control box will be right in front of you in the door on the bottom.
To reinstall, just reverse the procedure, be sure to align the large tab after putting the panel on and everything should align with a little persuasion and push togther. This sounds tedious, but its really not, its about a 5 minute deal to remove the panel and another 2 to put it back together.
Last edited by Highhorse; Mar 5, 2016 at 02:35 PM.
As for your engine noise, I think I hear a pulley bearing or two struggling to do their jobs and/or a belt tensioner also.
Your ticking sound definitely sounds like an injector and in the same area as mine was making a similar noise. I ran some high octane boost through it and cleared it up. Somewhat similar to a fuel injector cleaner, but gives the fuel more ability to burn and mine is supercharged so it helps that. I seriously doubt you have a S/C issue, it would make a constant sound, not a clicking one. Clicking is from a device that is operating at a predetermined time (like an injector or cam). I thus also agree with Eric and Jhartz on the oil change and Sea Foam.
Your ticking sound definitely sounds like an injector and in the same area as mine was making a similar noise. I ran some high octane boost through it and cleared it up. Somewhat similar to a fuel injector cleaner, but gives the fuel more ability to burn and mine is supercharged so it helps that. I seriously doubt you have a S/C issue, it would make a constant sound, not a clicking one. Clicking is from a device that is operating at a predetermined time (like an injector or cam). I thus also agree with Eric and Jhartz on the oil change and Sea Foam.
Dear Highhorse,
Thank you very much for all the instruction concerning the window. If I decide to do it my self, I will have to wait for the better weather, cause the garage i park the car doesn't have the necessary space to do all this work. Don't forget as I wrote earlier I am a DIY disaster(LOL).
I changed the oil and oil filter last Thursday and I did put a high octane booster. No difference at all concerning the noise. I ll run it a few more times
Thank you,
Dimitris
Thank you very much for all the instruction concerning the window. If I decide to do it my self, I will have to wait for the better weather, cause the garage i park the car doesn't have the necessary space to do all this work. Don't forget as I wrote earlier I am a DIY disaster(LOL).
I changed the oil and oil filter last Thursday and I did put a high octane booster. No difference at all concerning the noise. I ll run it a few more times
Thank you,
Dimitris
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