I have looked in JTIS and Alldata for my 1999 XJ8 and this code says it means "VVT Solnoid Fault".

I saw an another website someone mentioned this code means a misfire. I find this highly unlikely as the misfire codes are in the P300 series.

If anyone can confirm this I would really appreicate it. I just want to make sure of it before I start chasing butterflies....

Thanks...

 

maybe I am missing something, but alldata for my 99 xjr does hot show a p1384. Is there another post that explains the problem you are trying to work on?

 

P1384 is a VVT Solenoid Malfunction A bank (1). Once set 2 times your intake cam may be fully retarded. This will happen if it cycles through more than one solenoid failure event. You might be able to make this happen by accelerating rapidly to 65mph and back down to idle. Do it a couple times, if the solenoid failure is detected more than once it will retard the intake cam. This accounts for the rough running engine you may be experiencing. If your not experiencing a rough running engine try clearing the DTC's and drive it until it reappears.

The causes for this vary from an actual solenoid failure to drive circuit fault, ground fault and or poor inconsistent oil flow to an actual camshaft mechanical failure.

I had this a while back, I cleared the DTC and changed the oil to 10W40 instead of 10W30. The thicker oil viscosity cleared it up for me, at least for the last 20K.
Pat

 

John-
The reason you find no VVT code for an XJR is that an XJR has no VVT

 

Well, that explains it! One more thing I don't have to look for or worry about.

 

Thanks for the confirmation.

I am now getting P0010 and P0020 codes instantly after clearing them and restarting the engine - despite what the JTIS says about how it sets them (2 trips etc...).


I have confirmed also (from the other thread I have out there) that when the P1384 code is set there is no voltage set to the solenoid, otherwise I show about 9.5-10 volts (its a PWM signal so tough to say exactly what the voltage is).

I ran through off the circuit/short circuit fault tests in JTIS and found no problems. I also measured the resistance of both R&L side solenoids and they are the same.
So I am down to the solenoid or a mechnical failure of the VVT gear/plumbing etc....

Before I take the solenoid out, I was thinking of just hooking up 12 volts dc directly to the solenoid for a instant, to see that will "unstick" the shuttle valve (if it is stuck). Is this a good idea?



Thanks...

 

You never mentioned what impact this is having. Other than having the SES light on, is your engine running roughly? If not try the 10W40 method. Oil pressure is most likely the culprit unless your Intake cam timing is a problem. If your engine is running poorly and you have this code then you may have to dig a bit deeper.

Have never heard anyone trying the unsticking method you described, but it may not be stuck at all.

 

It idles fine and is not running "rough" (or too rough anyways). I seem to have power issues at higher RPM's (i.e. expressway driving) but this may have nothing to do with the VVT issue.

I should mention that I probably have a nikasil issue with the engine (leak down and compression tests are bad) and I poured a can of "engine restore" into the oil last week (and drained and replaced about half of the oil in the process). This may have gummed up the VVT but I really don't know.

I guess an oil change is pretty cheap to see if that resolves the problem :-).


Also, can you confirm for me how the computer thinks there is a problem? My guess is that the computer sends a PWM signal to advance/retard the camshaft and then checks the camshaft position sensor to see if it did actually advance/retard. If it doesn't it sets the VVT bad code. Given this, is it possible the camshaft positon sensor is bad?


BTW, It is 1999 XJ8 with 95K miles on it.

Thanks,

 

IDK exactly how the ECU knows the solenoid is an issue. In your case I would change the oil and clear the codes. With the comp and leak down issues you may have I would think the VVT solenoid is the least of your worries, especially since it is not causing the engine to run rough. The engine restore may not have been a good idea, but may clear itself up. Not knowing the order that this all happened, that could have been the reason the DTC was set in the first place

Change the oil, clear the codes and see if they come back.

Good luck,
pat

 

Ron-
I THINK you must be right about the VVT fault operation. I have read on a forum (but I cannot confirm) that the '98 VVT circuit is not proportional, but is only normal or advanced. Either way, I assume it advances the cam, then checks the cam feedback sensor timing.

 

I think you are right about the oil. I changed the oil (and ran some engine cleaner thru it) last night and the light hasn't come back on yet (I probably jinxed it now). I put 20W-50 in there (it is pretty warm around here) for testing it.

As for the engine.... It is probably has a nikail problem as the leak down test (performed on a cold engine) was about 60% on 4 different cylinders leaking thru the breather port (yikes).

However, the car is not burning oil (much anyways), the spark plugs are not fouling (pretty clean actually), I am not getting excessive oil blowing out the breather port and the car runs pretty well. It definately doesn't have the power it once had but...

I am kind of fantasizing about it being a problem with the piston rings being bad and maybe I can simply replace them with the block in the car. Though I cannot seem to find an answer as to if it is possible to replace the rings with the engine in the car. The only way to see if it is a nikasil problem is to look at the bores - I guess.

So there is an engine problem just a question of when I want to deal with it.

Next on the list is the secondary timing chain tensioners.

Thanks so much Pat....

 

Technically you could replace the rings with the engine in the car. I don't know how much more difficult it would be in the case of a Jag. I know I have replaced rings with the engine in the car before, but you never know until you get there.

I read your post on the timing chain tensioners. When I did mine I ended up machining my own cam lockdown tools. Have a look Here http://rides.webshots.com/album/571388394OmZScm If you pay for shipping I can let you use one of them, if you promise to return it when you're done. I also have a tensioning tool for the exhaust cam sprocket that you will need. You can get away with only one lockdown tool and no crank lockdown plug if you do each side separately.

Or for $50.00 (time, materials and tooling costs) I will make you your own lockdown tool. BTW, It works the same as the jag specific tool you will end up buying. Clearances are right on the money, cams do not move at all and the lockdown tool is made of steel not aluminum.

It is a rather simple procedure once you read and understand the concepts. If interested you can PM me to work out the details.

pat

 

ok..i have a 99 jag xk8 in my shop..now i havent done a whole lot of work on these before,,but i got suckered in on this one...i am also gettin that same code..p1348.
and p1111...still havent quite figured out the p1111yet..but i have replaced the vvt on bank 1,,at least i think its bank 1,,some vehicles vary on the bank 1 and 2 crap..but i replaced the vvt on the passenger side.
and now vehicle still will not start..and i am now chasing reasons of why..can anyone help???
thankyou

 

NorCalDiesel (Pat)

"Or for $50.00 (time, materials and tooling costs) I will make you your own lockdown tool. BTW, It works the same as the jag specific tool you will end up buying. Clearances are right on the money, cams do not move at all and the lockdown tool is made of steel not aluminum."

I know this is an old post but do you still make the cam lockdown tool?

Amos -

 

Amos:
To whom are you addressing this post? Can you articulate your specific question more accurately?

 

search for the zip tie method man...you can change both sides on the secondaries in an hour! Easy!!!