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Just thought I would post the latest photos I had from the Daimler. I tried gaining access to the bottom of the fuel tank, but had to stop. Thinking I may have to revive the whole rear axle but the state of it currently.
If anyone has wondered why you need to look under a vehicle that has sat in the weeds before...that is why. I had a 67 Mustang that sat in the field before I got it. I went over a railroad track woopty and it broke just behind the subframe and the driveshaft made a nasty howling noise rubbing on the trans tunnel. A teenage lesson learned.
Due to the current lockdown, all work on the Daimler has come to a halt. I'm hoping that once the lockdown has been lifted, I can start work on it again. As you have seen from some of the photos, the corrosion under the car is quite horrendous. Together with me having to replace the fuel pump, I'm seriously considering removing the entire rear axle assembly, as 1.) it will give access to the PITA fuel pipes, and 2.) will give me an opportunity to strip the rear axle and clear all the corrosion and replace bushes.
Is the wise??????
Will be looking forward to getting my hands dirty!!
Due to the current lockdown, all work on the Daimler has come to a halt. I'm hoping that once the lockdown has been lifted, I can start work on it again. As you have seen from some of the photos, the corrosion under the car is quite horrendous. Together with me having to replace the fuel pump, I'm seriously considering removing the entire rear axle assembly, as 1.) it will give access to the PITA fuel pipes, and 2.) will give me an opportunity to strip the rear axle and clear all the corrosion and replace bushes.
Is the wise??????
Will be looking forward to getting my hands dirty!!
Can be cleaned up but honestly, expect to do some welding under there...
Hi Bumble7755,
Have just stumbled across your thread,what a good find but quite a bit of work to do there I would imagine.
But a good project if you can do the majority of the work yourself.
On removing the rear axle I would give everything a good spray with penetrating fluid a few days before you start(might help some).
When I removed mine to refurbish it I managed to do it on my own with the help of three trolly jacks and then put it on a "dolly".
The whole unit is quite heavy so using a "dolly" made it easier to move around.
You have to get the rear quite high for it to slide out and If I remember correctly it came out a bit sideways(if that makes sense).
I did a little write up about it for the J.E.C.which will give you a bit of an idea of whats involved.Here's a link: https://jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=95&t=11902
On the plus side most parts for these cars are readily available either new or second hand.
There always seems to be a good supply of cars breaking for parts,mainly due to rust issues I think.
Did you find out why it was left there in the first place?
Good luck with your project and I look forward to the updates.
Any questions just ask away
Take care and stay safe.
Andy
Hi Bumble7755,
Have just stumbled across your thread,what a good find but quite a bit of work to do there I would imagine.
But a good project if you can do the majority of the work yourself.
On removing the rear axle I would give everything a good spray with penetrating fluid a few days before you start(might help some).
When I removed mine to refurbish it I managed to do it on my own with the help of three trolly jacks and then put it on a "dolly".
The whole unit is quite heavy so using a "dolly" made it easier to move around.
You have to get the rear quite high for it to slide out and If I remember correctly it came out a bit sideways(if that makes sense).
I did a little write up about it for the J.E.C.which will give you a bit of an idea of whats involved.Here's a link: https://jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=95&t=11902
On the plus side most parts for these cars are readily available either new or second hand.
There always seems to be a good supply of cars breaking for parts,mainly due to rust issues I think.
Did you find out why it was left there in the first place?
Good luck with your project and I look forward to the updates.
Any questions just ask away
Take care and stay safe.
Andy
Hi Andy,
The car was previously owned by my father-in-law, who had left it outside for the past 7 years. Before that, it was a hotel are and was kept immaculate and regularly serviced (still got all the stamps and receipts). My father-in-law has just reached the point where he just gave up with the plans to get it back up and running and was going to scrap it, hence I took it off his hands (although its still parked in his garden).
My plan is to try and do the majority of this myself, with the advice on these forums and some basic tooling. Once I have removed the rear axle, I will post some photos to try and gauge from you guys the extent of the job I will have.
Looking forward to one day being able to take this for a drive.
How many kilometers are on it? If the transmission seems to work good once you get it running and moved, I’d highly recommend installing an updated main pressure regulator valve in the valve body of the transmission. Also, if you didn’t know, do the secondary timing chain tensioners before it’s too late. Good luck with the rust repair.
Today is a happy update, I finally have got the car started!!!!!!
In the end, I replaced to entire fuel tank, as the old one was just too brown inside. I say I got it started, it's leaking quite badly, LOL. When attempting to replace the fuel filter, I sheared the fuel feed line to the engine. So in the meantime, I have bypassed the filter with some garden hose, not ideal!
Was just after some suggestions for you guys as the best way to replace the lines.
A pic and better description of "sheared" and where would be helpful. You didn't damage the tank connection did you?
Hi,
I sheared it immediately after the nut coming off the fuel filter, it had nearly corroded away! So just got some hose to connect the two ends without the filter to get the engine turned over.
Ok, I was going to suggest a compression fitting, but with that corrosion the only real option is to replace it. Whether you find a good one at a recycle yard (not a preferred choice), a new one would be best. As a matter of perspective, if one part is corroded that badly, the rest is most assuredly the same. So a complete new fuel line would be the recommended course. But you could find a descent one in the yard possibly. But I'd check on price 1st (for both old and new) to see how it balances.
