Nope, just don't believe in sticking my head in a noose!

 

Thanks a lot for your reply Grandell, and for the link. Mr. hardtofind's "before" photo shows an identical dash to mine, so I've ordered his kit.

As for using the search facility, yes I did try some combinations of search words, and did quite a bit of reading, but there's such a vast range of subjects here I kept getting side tracked.

And then there were some slightly hostile posts in this thread which gave me pause. But I realise now that if I'd waded through the entire thread I'd have seen that everyone kissed and made up towards the end. So all's well in the world of the big cat.

Thanks again, Dave.

 

Thanks for the post Mark. No it isn't just the aux input. I want to update the whole audio set up (not that I'm a teenager with a 'boom boom' addiction, just the opposite in fact).

I don't think a CD stacker in the boot is particularly convenient, I don't like having a gaping whole for cassettes in the dash (who uses cassettes these days?), and I don't want to have to grope for my phone when I'm driving. Oh, and the audio display screen has grown a dark patch, just like the rear view mirror.

So a nice modern 1 din CD head unit with bluetooth and USB will suit me fine. And if I can get the installer to tie it in with the steering column controls so much the better. I'll be as happy as Larry.

Cheers, Dave.

 

If you're really interested in upgrading, and you're going to be using bluetooth and usb for most of your music, have you considered replacing the entire headunit with a tablet?

IMHO the factory headunit is crap. I have an aftermarket processor, and have made my own ai-net aux input, and the difference between running through the headunit, and running straight into the processor is night and day. Clarity, definition, imaging/staging are all so much better. I have no idea what the factory headunit is doing, but it definitely isn't helping

 

Thanks Grandell, but the only tablets I understand are the half dozen I take every morning. As for ai-net, umm.. I think I saw a fisherman using one once. At least, when I asked him what he was catching he said "ai?"

No, I'm afraid my technical understanding is limited to wondering whether I should get a head unit with built in bluetooth or to use a separate bluetooth module - because there will be times when I don't want music playing.

Seems like Blaupunkt are the only people who do a built in bluetooth that operates independently of the head unit's on/off switch.

 

Does your car have the standard or premium stereo? If you have premium, you will have the separate amp in the boot and tweeters in the a pillars, not the doors.

If so... make sure you talk very carefully with whoever is doing your install, as it's not quite as straightforward as it would seem.

If you have the standard stereo, you should be fine and everything will run off the new headunit (except the old cd stacker, obviously)

 

Oh wow, I'm glad you mentioned that, Grandell, thanks a lot. I didn't get an audio hand book with the car, so no help there, but I do have tweeters built into the a pillars - so I guess I have an amp in the boot.

There's no sign of anything obvious so I suppose it's installed behind the back seat, would that be right?

Do you think there'll be any significant advantage in using the built in amp, given that it's 16 years old? Obviously the new head unit will be fairly state of the art, so maybe it would be easiest just to have the installer disconnect the amp?

 

Well, admittedly the question's a bit ambiguous, but I thought I might draw a few comments at least.

Not being an audiophile myself (or an auto-electrician, or a mechanic) I was hoping to hear peoples' opinions on the quality of the factory fitted amplifier in the 1998 X308, or at least how it compares with today's head units such as Pioneer or Kenwood.

I don't want LOUD, but I might as well go for the better quality if I go ahead and replace my factory fitted head unit.

 

What tablets do you reccommend to replace the existing head unit? Are there tablets available that replace the existing double din apperture seamlessly?

 

Probably better to start your own thread specific to what you want to know regarding audio. There's no such thing as a short answer when it comes to these stereos!

Also, I can't remember if there's much info in the audio subsection of the forum, but again, I would suggest having a good search.

I have a lot more experience with the standard 2000 onwards stereo, which is very different to yours. There's a wiring diagram on the internet that will be for your car, that's a great place to start, but if it's over your head then I think you'd be better off either getting a professional involved, which will be expensive, or hoping that someone else on here with more knowledge will be able to help.

A few things I do know... you should be able to bypass your amp, but I'm not sure how much wiring it will take. You also risk losing the sub unless you can get the right kind of 5 channel amp or a sub amp to run it.
The factory amp is also about 18wrms per channel, which is roughly the same as you'll get with a new headunit. I wouldn't recommend feeding the factory amp with high level inputs, but you might be able to rig up a solution using rca outputs.

I've been meaning to talk to a mate who's doing a Nexus 7 install in his (non Jag) car. Double din is 18x10cm I think, and the Nexus 7 is 20x12, so it should be close. Obviously width isn't an issue, but height could be.
You could also go down the carpc route, but if you're not IT minded then it can be a lot more trouble than it's worth.

As yet there is still no plug and play solution, but from what I've seen over the last year or two, we're really not that far off...
I hear a rumour that Google is working on a version of Android specifically designed for car stereos....

 

I'm not sure if I'm IT minded- but I may be interested in a 'car PC'. I use the PC a lot and intend to use my XJR as a mobile office when I'm on my travels, so please keep me in the loop!

 

Thanks a lot for your reply Grandell.

Yes I wasn't able to find the answer to this one anywhere else in the forums, and it didn't seem worthy of another thread, that's why I asked it here.

I do intend getting the installation done professionally (wouldn't dream of attempting to pull things apart myself, I'd be sure to break something) and I will be asking the installer's opinion of course, but I'm inclined to think Jag enthusiasts know more about Jag matters than anyone.

As to the sub (is that short for sub-woofer?) the 1812 Overture has artillery cannons, but there isn't much else in the world of classics or opera or traditional music that calls for a heavy base.

From what you say, I'm inclined to think I'll be more than happy with a straight installation of a decent head unit, and to ignore the amp altogether; depending of course on what the installer says about the wiring.

Thanks again for your comments.

 

You'll lose your sub(woofer) then. This will explain some of it...
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Just pick your year (1998) and follow your nose to page 83. You will see that the headunit outputs a 4 channel signal, and the amplifier uses the front left and right for it's sub outputs, each running through a separate voice coil. An aftermarket headunit won't let you do this... but you couuld get an aftermarket amp to achieve a similar result. How you choose to do this is up to you...
From what you've said though, sounds like a good modern unit powering the door speakers will do the job though.

 

Right, thanks again Grandell. I think I'll just get the installer to give me a demo. It the head unit sounds good through my hearing aids then I'll be happy with that.

 

Midlife, I have a opp to get a pretty nice 2000 XJR. it needs coil packs according to the current owner. I have a 98 XJ8 that is super solid mechanically - caz I have fixed most everything. It was vandalized and repairing it is not a good idea $wise. Its my daily driver and I will keep it if I don't go for a XJR. Is the 2000 XJR pretty solid? Any advice? Thanks

 

The XJR is solid. Some would say more reliable than the NA since the transmission is different and the MB is a bone crusher. Also, the engine does not have VVT, an occasional source of trouble. The tensioners in the MY 2000 are still the Achilles heal, though.

The smiles per mile in an XJR are incredible, even compared to an XJ8.

Now, as to coil packs, I would be very suspicious. What in hell could fail multiple coil packs at the same time? I would sure get that sorted before pulling the trigger. And the coil packs from you car DO NOT work on the later model. You have an AJ26 engine and the MY 00 is an AJ27.

 

The 2000 X308 still had the nikasil engines. Your 98 does too, but at least you know it runs. Here, it sounds like an expensive trial and error. I'd pass.

 

Always highly suspicious of cars for sale that say "just needs x". If that's all it needs, why not fix it and then sell it without the huge loss involved with selling a faulty car? True, it might be x, or it might be y, where y is 10 times more expensive than x.

Also this suggests that they haven't been able to afford to maintain the car properly, another bad sign.

Only buy it if it is a good deal if the worse case cause of the problem would still be economic to fix. For example, if the transmission isn't shifting properly, assume it needs a new one. You still need to do due diligence for the condition of the rest of the car.

 

Thanks - I gave him a standing offer of 1500$. I did look the car over and drove it. It misfired so I still don't know what I' missing with a SC unit. The interior was a little dirty. Who ets a car like this get dirty? Me no like-ee, except for 1500$ or less. He figured later it was his CAT's stuffed up????? he might come back to me on it.

 

Zapper - Thanks. I gave him a 1500$ offer he did not accept. I will just be patient. I am seeing some good buys in Florida though and need t curb my enthusiam. This one was kind of dirty inside - WTF right? Maybe I just don't like black leather.