Door handle link replacement c/w pics...FAQ
#21
02-26-2015, 02:35 AM
My handle snapped on the outside of my driver's door and on my rear driver's side door the handle just flops with no play as if it's not engaging anything.
Again, both are the exterior handles.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Also, for gaskets I found a cheaper price: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281554655486
Again, both are the exterior handles.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Also, for gaskets I found a cheaper price: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281554655486
Last edited by erick_151; 02-26-2015 at 02:37 AM.
#23
03-30-2015, 02:01 AM
So I dove in and replaced my exterior door handle on the front left driver's side today (writeup and pictures pending), but I encountered a major issue.
After I put everything back together, my driver's window won't roll down. I hear the electronic click and all other windows go down, but not the driver's one. Won't go down via exterior turn key or center console button either.
Any advice is appreciated!
After I put everything back together, my driver's window won't roll down. I hear the electronic click and all other windows go down, but not the driver's one. Won't go down via exterior turn key or center console button either.
Any advice is appreciated!
#25
03-31-2015, 12:25 AM
Solved
So I dove in and replaced my exterior door handle on the front left driver's side today (writeup and pictures pending), but I encountered a major issue.
After I put everything back together, my driver's window won't roll down. I hear the electronic click and all other windows go down, but not the driver's one. Won't go down via exterior turn key or center console button either.
Any advice is appreciated!
After I put everything back together, my driver's window won't roll down. I hear the electronic click and all other windows go down, but not the driver's one. Won't go down via exterior turn key or center console button either.
Any advice is appreciated!
Will provide write up and picture for exterior handle job probably this Saturday.
Cheers!
#26
02-18-2017, 07:54 PM
Excellent summary! Had trouble trying to find a solution to my problem which is exactly the same. I truly appreciate all of your detail- explanations and pics. I realize it was very time-consuming posting such detailed information.
I have one question- I purchased the replacement cable only (no handle assembly). Is it possible to simply replace the cable without having to remove the internal door hardware (I.E. internal brackets)?
I have one question- I purchased the replacement cable only (no handle assembly). Is it possible to simply replace the cable without having to remove the internal door hardware (I.E. internal brackets)?
#28
11-10-2017, 09:02 PM
Veteran Member
Funny thing is my inside handle stayed extended on exiting. Then I lightly forced it back in w/ my hand. It's back working, just slow to retract back. I think I will pull the door card & see if the little collar on the cable has just become misaligned as opposed to breaking & falling off.
Either way the part's ordered & shall be replaced. It's been flirting w/ failure for almost a year now lol.
Either way the part's ordered & shall be replaced. It's been flirting w/ failure for almost a year now lol.
Last edited by King Charles; 11-10-2017 at 11:44 PM.
#32
07-09-2018, 05:27 PM
What a crappy design. The cable and the weak cast L-shaped mechanisms. I am sure that is the best they could manage I guess. I hope they improved with the latest tech available to help design important mechanisms like "THE DOORS"! God forbid you have to get out of the car in a hurry, and then 'snap', there goes the cable, or there goes that plastic crap they made the inside one on, or the cast metal L-Shaped lever design on the exterior. Has anyone ever heard of CFD at Jaguar?
#33
07-10-2018, 04:20 AM
Veteran Member
What a crappy design. The cable and the weak cast L-shaped mechanisms. I am sure that is the best they could manage I guess. I hope they improved with the latest tech available to help design important mechanisms like "THE DOORS"! God forbid you have to get out of the car in a hurry, and then 'snap', there goes the cable, or there goes that plastic crap they made the inside one on, or the cast metal L-Shaped lever design on the exterior. Has anyone ever heard of CFD at Jaguar?
The BIG problem is the abuse handed out by meat fisted oiks who think the bloody door handle is an axe handle and wrench the crap out of them and lack of regular lubrication....it's called mechanical abuse!
The same as doors are thrown open against their check straps and slammed shut with full force.
The same applies to the bonnet/hood cables because of poor adjustment and lack of lubrication.
#34
07-11-2018, 02:16 PM
Veteran Member
#35
07-13-2018, 12:56 PM
So my door handle link snapped... For over a week I had to roll down the driver side windows to let myself out... Talk about embarrassing....
So I ordered a new link/door handle assembly from eBay for $80...
I also went to Harbor Freight Tools to get this:
Attachment 166774
Very handy for removing trim.
Here is what I did (pic):
RED arrows first:
- remove the screw in the door handle cup, and remove the cup by pulling on the door handle and working the cup out.
- remove the screw under the arm rest
GREEN arrows:
- use a nylon pry bar to pop out the two fasteners holding the faux-wood trim, and then SLIDE is to the LEFT. Don't try to pull towards you or it will snap.
PURPLE circles:
- use the pry bar again on the pin fasteners.
Attachment 166775
This is why you wanna slide the faux-wood insert and not pull it:
Attachment 166776
Anyways, To remove the door trim itself, first PULL the bottom part out to where you can see all the side and bottom fasteners out, and the trim itself is about 2" from the door, then LIFT the trim UP.
Here is what you'll see:
Attachment 166777
Disconnect the speaker wire, and the yellow connector for the door/windows switches. You can leave the door light wire on as it's long enough for you to put the trim on the floor without the need for disconnecting it.
The door lock assembly and the links.
Attachment 166778
Attachment 166779
Was able to squeeze my camera in the door frame pointing towards the lever that the link connects to:
Attachment 166780
Getting ready for this project I had problems finding good (any) pics that would help me visualize what I was about to get myself into. Hopefully this will help others that may run into this issue...
Thanks
Mike
So I ordered a new link/door handle assembly from eBay for $80...
I also went to Harbor Freight Tools to get this:
Attachment 166774
Very handy for removing trim.
Here is what I did (pic):
RED arrows first:
- remove the screw in the door handle cup, and remove the cup by pulling on the door handle and working the cup out.
- remove the screw under the arm rest
GREEN arrows:
- use a nylon pry bar to pop out the two fasteners holding the faux-wood trim, and then SLIDE is to the LEFT. Don't try to pull towards you or it will snap.
PURPLE circles:
- use the pry bar again on the pin fasteners.
Attachment 166775
This is why you wanna slide the faux-wood insert and not pull it:
Attachment 166776
Anyways, To remove the door trim itself, first PULL the bottom part out to where you can see all the side and bottom fasteners out, and the trim itself is about 2" from the door, then LIFT the trim UP.
Here is what you'll see:
Attachment 166777
Disconnect the speaker wire, and the yellow connector for the door/windows switches. You can leave the door light wire on as it's long enough for you to put the trim on the floor without the need for disconnecting it.
The door lock assembly and the links.
Attachment 166778
Attachment 166779
Was able to squeeze my camera in the door frame pointing towards the lever that the link connects to:
Attachment 166780
Getting ready for this project I had problems finding good (any) pics that would help me visualize what I was about to get myself into. Hopefully this will help others that may run into this issue...
Thanks
Mike
Hey Mike thank you for the explanation, you are awesome!!! Can you please provide a link and price that you bought the new “metal” wire?( i think you understand what i mean)
Thank you.
#36
07-23-2018, 11:51 AM
Nice write up with pics. Great help!
I'm working on X300 '97 VDP and it looks the same - at least the cable does. What seems to be missing is a reference to a small retaining clip. It's part #3 in the diagram https://tinyurl.com/yaapwvgn
Can anyone shed light on how this fits?
Thanks!
I'm working on X300 '97 VDP and it looks the same - at least the cable does. What seems to be missing is a reference to a small retaining clip. It's part #3 in the diagram https://tinyurl.com/yaapwvgn
Can anyone shed light on how this fits?
Thanks!
#37
08-06-2020, 11:39 AM
Junior Member
Thank You SO much!
Mike,
Your instructions are extraordinary! I just bought a 1998 XJR and I had the same problem with my door as you had. Yes, it's extremely embarrassing!
Just so you know... I am a 50 year old woman with no experience in working on door panels. I was able to get the panel off with no problems and get the cable out with ease due to your post.
I am writing this just to say, "Thank You." Without these pictures and instructions, I would've had to take her to a shop who wanted to charge me $200 JUST to open her up! I sure appreciate it.
Many Blessings To You. You Rock!!
Your instructions are extraordinary! I just bought a 1998 XJR and I had the same problem with my door as you had. Yes, it's extremely embarrassing!
Just so you know... I am a 50 year old woman with no experience in working on door panels. I was able to get the panel off with no problems and get the cable out with ease due to your post.
I am writing this just to say, "Thank You." Without these pictures and instructions, I would've had to take her to a shop who wanted to charge me $200 JUST to open her up! I sure appreciate it.
Many Blessings To You. You Rock!!
#38
01-02-2021, 10:12 AM
Junior Member
X308 door handle cable replacement
Based on prior posts on this forum and information from elsewhere steps involved in performing this repair are listed. Please post if I missed something, got something wrong, etc.
1. Disconnect the negative battery lead
2. Remove the small round cap from the middle of the handle cup
3. Remove the “first” screw located beneath the small round cap
4. Remove the handle cup
5. Remove the wood veneer
6. Remove the “second” screw from beneath the arm rest
7. Loosen the door panel clips
8. Remove the door panel
9. Disconnect the electrical connections (speaker, switches, and light)
10. Remove the Styrofoam plastic layer
11. Remove the old cable
12. Install the new cable
13. Re-install the Styrofoam plastic layer
14. Re-connect the electrical connections
15. Replace, in order: the door panel, the “second” screw, the wood veneer, the handle cup, the “first” screw, and the small round cap, and
16. Re-connect the negative battery lead.
Also, a couple of questions: 1. Is it recommended to lube the inner cable before installation? And 2. Have others encountered/replaced what has been referred to as “a small spring clip on the catch that is used to retain the cable outer into the latch assembly”?
1. Disconnect the negative battery lead
2. Remove the small round cap from the middle of the handle cup
3. Remove the “first” screw located beneath the small round cap
4. Remove the handle cup
5. Remove the wood veneer
6. Remove the “second” screw from beneath the arm rest
7. Loosen the door panel clips
8. Remove the door panel
9. Disconnect the electrical connections (speaker, switches, and light)
10. Remove the Styrofoam plastic layer
11. Remove the old cable
12. Install the new cable
13. Re-install the Styrofoam plastic layer
14. Re-connect the electrical connections
15. Replace, in order: the door panel, the “second” screw, the wood veneer, the handle cup, the “first” screw, and the small round cap, and
16. Re-connect the negative battery lead.
Also, a couple of questions: 1. Is it recommended to lube the inner cable before installation? And 2. Have others encountered/replaced what has been referred to as “a small spring clip on the catch that is used to retain the cable outer into the latch assembly”?
#39
01-03-2021, 07:24 AM
Senior Member
#40
01-18-2021, 03:13 PM
Thanks for the excellent write up. Replaced my cable yesterday, quick and easy fix.
I also updated the front speakers while I had door panel off. Alpine 2-ways fit perfectly.
My ebay cable did not have the foam sleeve which presumably keeps it from rattling against door. Removed old sleeve (slice with razor) and glued it on new cable.
Thanks again!
I also updated the front speakers while I had door panel off. Alpine 2-ways fit perfectly.
My ebay cable did not have the foam sleeve which presumably keeps it from rattling against door. Removed old sleeve (slice with razor) and glued it on new cable.
Thanks again!