Hey Guys,
1999 XJ8, 80K
Failed test due to 5 IM sensors not reading so we are dodging the police with my expired sticker..
Have determined an O2 sensor is bad or not working(P1647). Did swap O2 connectors and P1646 did come up.
Question is, would the O2 sensor failure cause the other IM's not to reset?
Cheers

 

Maybe other people are puzzled also on what the question means. What exactly did the car fail for ? What do you mean by IM sensors ? Do you have a OBDII code reader ? It sounds like it, since you pulled a code. Why would you swap the O2 connectors ? Was that to verify that the one was bad and the other good ? Sorry if I sound ignorant, just trying to help.

 

I apologize for being unclear, and yes, I switched the O2 csensor connectors to make sure it was the sensor.
When I do a code scan it comes up with P1000 and P1647.
After that, the code reader goes to
MIL ON
Monitors
5 Incomplete
FUEL
COMP
CATLYST
EVAP
O2 SENSOR
2 Ready
MISFIRE
O2 HEATER

At the inspection I was told that 5 of the 7 Monitors had to be ready and to drive the car 50-60 miles so that those that were incomplete would have enough data stored in them to be ready. It has never changed since then with several hundred miles. I had no problems the last inspection.
I did the battery disconnect and touched neg to pos. I did the recommended drive sequence to no avail.
I am wondering if due to the bad O2 sensor, the other monitors will not work properly.
I have no indication of codes upstream from the O2 sensor and the car runs great. I had problems previously with the MAP and throttle valve which I cleaned thoughly and resolved the problem.
Any thoughts.
Thanks

 

Codes reset only after the specified 'drive cycles' have occurred. I think you have confirmed that you have a defective O2 sensor. Why not replace it and do the required drive cycles.

 

fuel, 02 and catalyst could all be showing incomplete until that sensor is replaced.

The evap, not sure it is related, it shouldn't. If their evap test showed a failure, but you don't see an evap leak code, its small...but there, and you'll have to explore the CCV and vent tubing. Its a common issue.

But, as test point mentioned, correct the sensor, clear with a code scanner (battery hard reset won't do it), and drive the correct cycles. We have a FORD drive cycle in the XK8/R FAQ thread, if you want to see what it entails. Low speed, high speed, all in between. That's important to receive the P1111 happy code.

 

Thanks Guys,
I have the O2 sensor on order and should be here in a few days and will let you know.
Just double checking here though. The P1647 code is bank one which should be on the right side....right?
Cheers

 

"The right hand cylinder bank is designated as "A"
bank, and the left hand as "B" bank. The cylinder
bores of each bank are numbered from 1 to 4,
starting from the front."
Quoted from manual (above) from sitting in the driver's seat. If the only choices
you have are bank 1 and bank 2, then I guess it'd be the right side for bank 1.

 

if you're more of a visual guy...(I am)

 

Jimmy, would that be the right side if looking from the front of the car, or the rear?





Just kidding ;-)

Thanks Guys

 

Hi Guys,
Quick question. I am having to rewire the harness to the Bank 1 O2 sensor to replace the sensor. (1999 XJ8).
From what I can gather looking at wiring diagrams, the yellow wire(which connects to blue in the harness) is the signal wire and the red wire(which connects to the white wire in the harness) is the ground wire. Then the W/G and P/B wires(which connect to the black wires in the harness) are the heater wires.
Can anybody verify that for me before I really screw something up?

Thanks

 

See if this helps -
http://www.ngk.com/glossaryImage.asp?imgID=309

 

Hey Jimmy, that really confirmed I was right.

Based on that, I replaced the O2 senor(bank 1) and immediately began getting the same P1647 code plus P1646(bank 2) and then awhile later P0135(bank 1 sensor malfunction).

I used a cheap "Universal Sensor" which may be the problem or the crimp connectoers may be the problem.

Anyone know of a way to check the connections using a cheap volt/ohm meter?

Cheers,
Ken