Hello all, does anyone know the size of the bolts that are used to attach the engine lifting brackets, special tool 303-536?

Thanks!

Travis

 

There is a wiring bracket in one of the holes i think on the passenger side head that is the correct thread. Just take it out and match it up a little longer.

 

Great, that's easy enough.

Thanks!

 

Is it necessary to use the special lift 303-021, or can you use a typical engine hoist / cherry picker with a spreader bar / halo along with the brackets 303-536 to tilt the engine?



Do the bent tabs near the bolts serve as an alignment function, or an integral lifting function?

 

I cannot find 303-021 so I don't know what that is. We just used a cherry picker, a tilting mechanism that had chains at either end and the holes in front of the heads and the two lifting brackets in the picture above, at the back of the heads. Always worked like a charm. The tabs just kind of align the brackets in a vertical position, they don't do any lifting.

Found it. 303-021 just holds the engine in place in case the subframe is removed. It was mostly used on the AJ6 and AJ16 engines and every once in a while we had to do something to a V12 with it. It can be used on the V8 cars as it would the older cars, but it is not for lifting, just holding.

 

Here's the hoist/support 303-021 mentioned in JTIS:


Do the tabs on the lifting brackets fit in a hole or a groove?

 

The tabs rest against the head, there is no hole or groove. They are left and right handed though. The tab goes towards the intake side. Once you get them in you'll see.

I found the big bracket. I was in Land Rover special tools and they don't use that. Doh!

 

Thanks for the info.

 

you can also pick up an engine support from harbour freight for $60. It just like the special tool.

 

Do you know the steel specs on that tool?

 

who cares, just use rope and chains for god's sake!

 

I was referring to the brackets, sorry. Those brackets seem convenient for tilting the motor for trans removal and install.

 

There are chain rigs out there that have flat pieces of steel with holes in them. You could get one and drill the holes bigger to fit that big bolt in the back. Then loop the chain to a tilter that is hooked to the crane. I wouldn't go looking all over for the style like jag has, there are competent equivalents out there. I would even suggest just using a chain that has loops big enough for the bolt to go through. I would suggest a tilter on the crane as they come out at a severe angle with the trans attached.

 

Just to close out this thread for future use, the bolt is an M14, 1.5 pitch 20mm long

 

I'm still trying to work my way through this one. I bought a load balancer from harbor freight. I think I can go with the plates that came with it for the rear but I'm a little confused about the front. I expected similar threaded holes there but if there are, I can't locate them. Am I just supposed to hook into those big loops? What should I use to ensure minimum risk of damage to the engine?

 

yep, the loops that are part of the head are where you connect the chain. I left the engine at a steep angle, and used a floor jack to get it past the subframe. When you start pulling it you will see what I mean.

 

You mean you didn't attach chains at the rear?

I think it should work with the balancer. I'm certainly going to give it a try. I haven't been able to find any m14-fine bolts today though. Coincidently enough, the wheel bolts on my jetta happen to be 14mm-fine. Hmmm...

I guess for the fronts, I'll be buying a couple of hooks from Lowes. That seems to be the best hope of attaching them I think. I was also considering those quick-links which are also available in the appropriate weight range but I think the hooks are more likely to be useful going forward.

Still undecided about a transmission jack. I think I can get by without.

 

I took Sean B's advice on this, got two 14mm HT bolts and thick washers (£3), put the bolts through the eye of a short chain and screwed into the back of each cylinder head. Then through the front eyes, I also got a 'cheap' engine leveler from Machine Mart (£30...less than the cost of the original eye tools). The engine flew out, no hitches what-so-ever using the leveler to get the correct angle, once out the leveler held the engine & gearbox level while I pressure blasted it clean.... really pleased. The chains I used at each corner also came with the leveler!! Thanks Sean B, for the suggestion to 'just get on with it'.

 

Thank you for the answers tmny, wherever you are!