I made an introduction thread and inquired with the X300 section, but further research led me to the X308 as the car I'm after. So that brings me here. Greetings! I'm an import (mostly German) mechanic, been lusting after a Jaguar XJ, have something fairly specific in mind - a black on black X308 LWB with an X300 interior, with a powertrain conversion to an OM606 and 6-speed manual. The former appears possible with some tweaking, apart from the luck of finding a black interior in the first place. The latter is what I aim to determine based on somebody kindly providing the following numbers (preferably in cm):
- length between firewall and radiator
- length between trans/block seam and subframe
- height between top of subframe (or top of rack, whichever is higher) and bottom of oilpan shallow section
- height between bottom of oilpan shallow section and top of engine
- height between bottom of oilpan shallow section, and bottom of deeper section or bottom of subframe, whichever is lower. Or height between bottom of oilpan deeper section and top of engine.

Also, does anyone know of a bolt-on clutch pedal solution for a left-hand drive model?

I'm very much on board with the style, the general feline theme, and the purpose of these cars. The more details I learn, the more it seems I'm on the same page as both the designers' and the engineers' intents (if not always the latter's execution). I hope to join you all soon with something more substantial than wishes and schemes! If anyone has a lead on a suitable donor car...

 

Perhaps what this gentlemen did will give you some quicker information into this exploit, its a fairly recent conversion, 2016. He seems very willing to assist, as he's answered many questions from his video to include the type of gearbox.

 

Not sure how to contact a YouTube user without signing up for that site. I'm hoping someone on here has a moment and a tape measure...

 

You sign up for it like any other site....say the Jaguar Forums. Then either leave them a message below the video or prompt his name and it'll take you to his page where you'll see Discussion and you can chat with him directly.

Other than that, for your measurements, I suggest you get yourself a tape measure and go to a recycle yard where most likely, an engine has already been removed and you can get dimensions more easily. Then find one with an engine and measure that. They should be readily available.

 

I have to add some windshield wash today, I'll try & remember to get measurements when the heat & humidity downgrades from Hell to Hades lol.

Edit :

On the fly measurements not laser accurate.

Back width near windshield : 58.5 inches
Front width : 52
Length : 44

 

Thank you! That's one piece of the puzzle, though somewhat, er... puzzling. Is 44 inches between the firewall and radiator? If so, that's enormous; a 7-series BMW (E38) measures 33.5", enough for not just the usual V8 but L6 (Euro only) and V12, plus a large mechanical fan.

There aren't any in yards near me, or I'd've long done the obvious and measured firsthand. Here's hoping for someone able and willing to provide the remaining pieces...

 

This pic was just after my tensioner replacement about 7 yrs ago and just the motor....but gives you an aspect of the size. I can tell you the SC is 48cm Long x 19.8cm Wide...which is roughly the front lip of the SC pulley to the back of the SC draft duct (the V8 symbolized piece just before it exits to the intercoolers) for which there is roughly 25cm more forward to the radiator and 25-30.5cm additional rear to the firewall. I'm traveling, so I'm working with off hand measurements other than the SC.

In regards to KC's measurements, he seems to have given you what you asked for which were the engine bay numbers.
I think what you really need are the rear of the motor to the firewall for the bellhousing and clutch assembly. Thus needing the width of the transmission tunnel. Since you seem to be keeping the motor and it staying in place (or you'd be redoing your exhaust manifolds), your concern is mainly the firewall, catalytic's (he shows in the video where he cut and reverse welded the cats for the bellhousing so you know this is a priority), exhaust possibly (which can easily be done later if need be), refitted driveshaft (can easily be done by an experienced shop) and trans mount. I noticed he had a couple pieces of angle mounted back on the trans cross bracing, but I fail to see what they are for? I'm guessing he had to move that cross brace?

Here's a reply in his posts... "Hi I used 5 speed gearbox from BMW E46 Mtf lt1 and clutch from e36 with solid flywheel. After I made fixing plate I realise I could put 6 speed gearbox. All conversion kit I did my self and cost me in total about 450£ Ecu thinking gearbox is on Neutral gear, I had to left solenoids and gear selector sensor with the car so he don't show error message." So your going to need to make the ECU think it still has an automatic in it.

I'm curious what he made the adapter ring out of to couple it? That seems to be the biggest engineering feat in this project, next to the peddle alignment. Its seems obvious he did a split ring then 1/4 turned another set of plates for reinforcement and punch press sleeved them together and drilled and tapped allen heads to them? It looks heavy and appears about 1.9-2.5cm thick. He must have some serious taps to thread that and other milling machines or access to a millwright.

 

Thanks for that detailed post, and the photo. It adds a few pieces to the puzzle, but I should clarify: the intention is to swap both motor and transmission. The motor I already have, sitting on a pallet in my shop: a Mercedes OM606.962 3.0 24V L6 IDI turbodiesel, with a mechanical OM603 injection pump (no ECU required). It's fairly tall and long, not very wide with tons of room on starboard. There is a rear-sump oil pan available from an OM648, which I'd probably (try to) use for a Jaguar swap.

The trans isn't quite decided, but likely a Mercedes 716.657 6-speed manual that bolts natively to this engine - no adapter required - and is rather compact:


The clearance issues I ran into trying to stuff this into my BMW (which may end up happening anyway) are: oilpan deep end to subframe (longitudinal), oil pan shallow end to steering rack and/or to hood (vertical), engine to radiator allowing at most a 5cm fan and/or engine too close to firewall (longitudinal), and intake manifold to brake booster (lateral).

I'm well aware of the driveshaft, exhaust, and other secondary modifications this'll entail. They're secondary because for the most part, they can be forced/figured-out/fabricated to fit around the primary things (engine and trans).

 

Ahhhh, ok, I hadn't a clue what an OM606 was, thanks for clarifying. So your simply doing a rolling chassis with Merc drivetrain. Diesel cars are not a popular item here in the US.
In that case, motor mount measurements to oil pan pickup area are your concern. Though making a set of offset mounts shouldn't be too hard as long as the pan cooperates. I see where there seems to be a similarity with the oil pan pump location. Depth may have to be addressed as you've stated?

Using that video, if you know the measurements of that BMW bellhousing, that you could compare to the Merc, ..that would be beneficial.

 

Nothing BMW in this swap*, just mentioned my existing BMW...

...and the clearance problems - all of them with solutions - I encountered while scheming the swap into that car instead. That's a Mercedes transmission.

(*Weellll... small chance of using a BMW gearbox with an adapter; +~$1200 and +headaches but stronger. If I'm feeling ambitious about a Stage 2 engine build, somewhere around 400whp, I might do that. Otherwise content myself with mildly boosted-up stock turbo and pump for ~220whp and ~350wft-lb) I'll measure the Mercedes bellhousing to get an idea of width. Eyeballing it, that won't be a problem.

What might be a problem is the height; the OM648 oilpan keeps the oilpump at the front, and uses extension pipes to pick up from the rear. This makes the shallower front of the oilpan hard to modify - I can make custom mount brackets, but custom oil system is above my pay grade - so the 61cm between the top of the valvecover and the bottom of the shallower oil sump requires at least 63cm, better 65, between the Jag's subframe (or rack, whichever is higher) and underside of hood.

 

The dream is shattered, at best deferred. I checked out a non-running 02 VDP and took a measuring tape to it. Bittersweet experience - on one hand, the seats were some of the best I've ever sat in, significantly better than the base models, legroom is vast, and I love the idea of piloting one of these big graceful cats around as my flagship. It's the only car I can name* that simultaneously has a steering rack, suspended front subframe, and handbrake, all things I like - certainly the only one of its time. On the other hand, for my project it's a non-starter; the OM606 is much too tall to fit without cutting the hood, which I won't do. Regrettably I must bow out of the Jaguar scene, restricting myself to longing wistfully for a gorgeous, comfortable, graceful cruiser like an XJ. Alas, this union is not to be. (Now, when I get bored in a few years and come across a 2.5 V6 TDI... we'll see about that.)

So I depart with this contribution for the benefit of anyone finding this thread in the future. The following dimensions should be considered +/- 0.5". I only had an American measuring tape at the time.

Y firewall to radiator fan 37
Y firewall to radiator 41
X width between compartments at rear sides of engine bay 25
Z top of engine to ground at front 32
Z top of engine to ground at rear 34
Z bottom of oilpan deeper section and bottom of subframe roughly level (I think the motor mounts on this one were sagging)
Z bottom of oilpan deeper to underside of hood at front 24.5. OM606 engine is about 25.5 tall at the front.
(derived) Z maximum height at oilpan shallow for a level engine, not including clearance, 21. OM606 is 23.
Z bottom of oilpan deeper to underside of hood at rear 27
Z bottom of oilpan shallower section to bottom of subframe 4
Z bottom of oilpan shallower to top of subframe 1
Z subframe height 3
Y radiator to front of subframe 19.5
Y bellhousing to radiator 30.5
Z underside of hood to subframe rear 27
X width of subframe notch 14.5
Y bellhousing to steering rack 2.5
Z steering rack to bottom of oilpan 1-1.5

*Apparently an early 80's Chevy Citation matches this description. I've found few cars that were as universally panned and derided as utter junk.