XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Ewar wishbone and tie bush

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Old Apr 27, 2026 | 03:23 PM
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xjack's Avatar
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Default Ewar wishbone and tie bush

My wishbone to tie bush is gone (marked in red) as far as i see, replacement involves removal of the tie, so i have few questions and please contest my assumptions
my rear have no sway bar, image is not mine, it is for the purpose of visualization only
In order to remove the tie i gonna have to remove springs and undo bolts in yellow then it should be off
will differential hang on pendulum (front hanger) and subframe or i need to support it underneath?
do i have to undo anything else, anything else to have in mind before attempting the job?
anything else worth replacing while there?
can anyone confirm that tie bush is the same as lower pendulum bush?



 
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Old Apr 27, 2026 | 05:52 PM
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aquifer's Avatar
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I swapped my differential last August and replaced a number of bushings while I was at it, but I don't remember which bushings were the same. Here's the website that I used to get part numbers to order what I needed. You can use it to see which bushings are the same.

Xj Series (from (v)812317 To (v)f59525 (canada / Mexico / Usa) | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

I had to drop the whole subframe for the differential swap, but I think you can accomplish what you need to do without dropping the subframe. You'd have to compress/remove the springs, and you would need to support the subframe because it won't hang there without the rear hanger. Not sure how safe it would be, I guess it would depend on what you used to support the subframe while you remove the hanger and the other pieces.

If you have access to a car lift and a hydraulic lift cart, it's actually not too hard to get the whole subframe out which would make everything easier and safer. Then you could get a good look at all the bushings and see what needs to be replaced. If you leave it up in there, just be sure your support is stable and somewhat heavy duty. I would guess the whole subframe weighs 400 pounds or more, but I don't actually know. It's heavy though.

I think you should plan on replacing the upper spring pads while you're at it. Might not be a bad time to suck out the diff fluid and refill with fresh since the hanger will be out of the way. There's no drain plug, and you can't take the cover off without removing the huge hanger bolts, so a hand operated or electric transfer pump is needed to suck out the oil.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2026 | 04:07 AM
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xjr2014_de's Avatar
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+1 on removing the whole axle assembly in order to replace that particular bush.

As far as I can remember, the marked bush is indeed identical to the lower bush of the pendulum. The information is somewhere here in the forum. Part No should be CAC4713.

As aquifer already wrote, the rear axle needs to be supported as soon as the differential monostrut is detached from the body. It is also correct that to remove the lower wishbone, the coilover (spring/damper unit) would need to be disassembled/removed. And then you'll end up with the entire wheel hub with brake disc dangling around just connected by the half shaft.
I therefore agree with the assessment that in terms of effort it will be roughly the same to remove the axle completely, with the additional benefits such as easier general access.

Especially considering that the bearings on the opposite side are likely subjected to similar loads and could be replaced at the same time.
Furthermore, I have experienced on several occasions that the long fulcrum bolt, which runs through the wishbone tie, the wishbone and the pendulum, gets seized in the wishbone. In order to free it, removing the axle is then almost unavoidable anyway.

Did a differential swap just two weeks ago... wouldn't ever attempt doing similar work without dropping the whole axle assembly.

Cheers
 
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Old Apr 28, 2026 | 11:29 AM
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Coils have to be removed and replaced anyway as they are badly rusted and will probably snap in the near future, both diff output bearings were done recently so no need to play around the diff also hubs are completely refurbished, so i'm not sure if pulling whole assembly is justified
My idea was to unbolt rear side and loose subframe enough to remove the coils and clear fulcrum bolts, yeah, it may be seized somewhere or it may have pendulum bushes shot too, in both cases whole assembly would have to go
Anyway, i gonna have to consider pulling everything out, sometimes lazy option is not the best solution
 

Last edited by xjack; Apr 28, 2026 at 11:36 AM.
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