failsafe engine mode after ABS "fix"
I just buttoned up the car after changing out the supercharger coupler, plugs, and doing the homebrew ABS fix (re-solder the two pins).
Well done, I now have the infamous FAILSAFE error and the car will only idle, which it does a little roughly. It ignores the throttle. TPS at 3.5%.
No codes now but I initially had:
P1122 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage
P1222 Traction Control Output Circuit Malfunction
P1637 = CAN Link ECM/ABSCM Circuit/Network Malfunction
P1720 Vehicle Speed ( Meter) Circuit
Cleared them and they didn't come back.
Battery reads 12.5V with car off, 14.1 with it running.
Maybe I *really* screwed something up. I started the car with the controller out (waiting for RTV to cure), which caused additional complaints (BRAKE FLUID LEVEL LOW, INCORRECT PART FITTED) that are now cleared but FAILSAFE remains.
Any thoughts?
Well done, I now have the infamous FAILSAFE error and the car will only idle, which it does a little roughly. It ignores the throttle. TPS at 3.5%.
No codes now but I initially had:
P1122 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage
P1222 Traction Control Output Circuit Malfunction
P1637 = CAN Link ECM/ABSCM Circuit/Network Malfunction
P1720 Vehicle Speed ( Meter) Circuit
Cleared them and they didn't come back.
Battery reads 12.5V with car off, 14.1 with it running.
Maybe I *really* screwed something up. I started the car with the controller out (waiting for RTV to cure), which caused additional complaints (BRAKE FLUID LEVEL LOW, INCORRECT PART FITTED) that are now cleared but FAILSAFE remains.
Any thoughts?
Mike:
Chill Man!
I doubt you "really screwed something up" too bad. The car will run fine with the ABS module disconnected from the CAN bus and power - (the other connector from the motor) It will give an ABS fault. Try disconnecting it again.
I suspect you dislodged a connector going somewhere like the throttle body while monkeying around the plugs. Look there, at the MAF, knock sensor cables, and so on.
Good luck
Chill Man!
I doubt you "really screwed something up" too bad. The car will run fine with the ABS module disconnected from the CAN bus and power - (the other connector from the motor) It will give an ABS fault. Try disconnecting it again.
I suspect you dislodged a connector going somewhere like the throttle body while monkeying around the plugs. Look there, at the MAF, knock sensor cables, and so on.
Good luck
Follow-up: I'm an idiot. The TPS connector was not seated. I removed the throttle body drive-side connector while troubleshooting.
The OEM coupler was cracked but the thing still rattles.
I guess silence was too much to hope for.
Extra special pleased that I didn't fix the ABS either.
The OEM coupler was cracked but the thing still rattles.
I guess silence was too much to hope for.Extra special pleased that I didn't fix the ABS either.
Did you reset the ABS fault? If not, it might take a few drive cycles to reset. Did you get a motor circuit faut code?- If thats not it, then you may have a bad wheel sensor or circuit. does the fault disappear after a battery cable disconnect and then come on at about 10 - 12 mph?
Look at the bright side; you are getting intimate with the workings of your Jag-U- Wah!
Look at the bright side; you are getting intimate with the workings of your Jag-U- Wah!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
innzane
X-Type ( X400 )
0
Sep 2, 2015 10:08 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)




