Fuel Pump Question
Have a dead fuel pump and have been trying for hours to find the two lines at the bottom of the tank. I have read all the posts here but for the life of me I can not locate the connections hidden up over the differential. The car is jacked up high and I have the quick release tools but I can not find a way to get to the connectors. Any tricks I should know???
Just a side note. Finally replaced the throttle body due to intermittent failsafes. Went pretty well and when I started the car it went into restricted performance and a code P0332. I had already replaced the other knock sensor and went ahead and replaced the this one. Started up and no failsafe but now trac and stability failures so was going to let car run to charge up battery and take to have abs codes run but upper coolant hose blew. Replaced hose and again let run and it died and was unable to restart with no codes. Bad fuel pump. In the six years we have owned this car starting at 67K we have replaced all O2 sensors, both knock sensors, thermostat housing, water line under the railing, throttle body assembly, all disc pads, door lock cylinder, plastic part in the rear trunk assembly. In six years we have only been able to put on 23K miles due to continued problems. AAGHHH!
Thanks Guys
Just a side note. Finally replaced the throttle body due to intermittent failsafes. Went pretty well and when I started the car it went into restricted performance and a code P0332. I had already replaced the other knock sensor and went ahead and replaced the this one. Started up and no failsafe but now trac and stability failures so was going to let car run to charge up battery and take to have abs codes run but upper coolant hose blew. Replaced hose and again let run and it died and was unable to restart with no codes. Bad fuel pump. In the six years we have owned this car starting at 67K we have replaced all O2 sensors, both knock sensors, thermostat housing, water line under the railing, throttle body assembly, all disc pads, door lock cylinder, plastic part in the rear trunk assembly. In six years we have only been able to put on 23K miles due to continued problems. AAGHHH!
Thanks Guys
U have to have small hands and alot of paitence. U won't see the connections but feel them when u reach up over the driver side of the differential. U can do it but don't take that tank out before u are sure it's disconnected.
I Just replaced mine in about 2 hours. I know this is not the proper way to do it but it worked for me. I removed the tank straps, the rubber boot where the fill cap is, and the drain pipe. I also disconnected all the tubes I could. Then I slowly and gently began to wiggle the tank out with the bottom lines in the tank still connected. It took a lot of pulling but I was able to pull the tank out far enough to remove the top and reach in and replace the pump. It was not easy but I got it done. Again this IS NOT the right way to do this. Try at your own risk.
It's been done that way before.
The people doing it have noted that there is more wiggle room if the plastic clamps holding down the fuel lines to the chassis are released and the fuel filter removed.
The people doing it have noted that there is more wiggle room if the plastic clamps holding down the fuel lines to the chassis are released and the fuel filter removed.
Bug Spat, been trying to get the lines disconnected and just can not reach the lines. When you wiggled the tank out did you lean it certain ways or one end first. Having a young man in last semester learning to be a diesel mechanic come by and take a look this weekend but his hands are larger than mine(lol).
Cheers
Cheers
Bug Spat, been trying to get the lines disconnected and just can not reach the lines. When you wiggled the tank out did you lean it certain ways or one end first. Having a young man in last semester learning to be a diesel mechanic come by and take a look this weekend but his hands are larger than mine(lol).
Cheers
Cheers
Trending Topics
Thanks Bug Spat, Did just as you said and had it out in about 15 minutes. I had to cut one of the rubber fuel lines on top as it would not budge. I did find an answer to the color of the quick release tool to use which is light blue for those wishing to go that route.
Again, thanks everyone for your help.
We do need to start a betting pool on which other part(s) will need replacing as soon as I start up the car with the new fuel pump.(lol)
Again, thanks everyone for your help.
We do need to start a betting pool on which other part(s) will need replacing as soon as I start up the car with the new fuel pump.(lol)
So glad to hear you got it out. 
No way am I putting money in a pool for Jag repairs. I was only expecting to replace the pump and battery and walked into 120 hours worth of work and about $3,000 in parts, paint, and leather repair. Not a bad deal considering I got the car for free but I sure walked right into the bears den. I do all my own work and I like working on cars but I can't even begin to imagine how much a Certified Jag repair shop would charge to do all the work. I have everything fixed now and it runs like a dream. I love my XJ8.

No way am I putting money in a pool for Jag repairs. I was only expecting to replace the pump and battery and walked into 120 hours worth of work and about $3,000 in parts, paint, and leather repair. Not a bad deal considering I got the car for free but I sure walked right into the bears den. I do all my own work and I like working on cars but I can't even begin to imagine how much a Certified Jag repair shop would charge to do all the work. I have everything fixed now and it runs like a dream. I love my XJ8.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Charlene n John
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
9
Sep 28, 2015 06:01 AM
deanh
XF and XFR ( X250 )
3
Sep 6, 2015 08:20 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)



