Consider dropping the rear subframe and suspension- its not that hard and will give you the ability to inspect the bushings etc. Once it is dropped, the fuel lines are right there and easy to access.

Maybe two hours to remove the rear end, one hour to replace the pump and another hour to put the rear back together. Looking back, I wouldn't recommend what I did above if it was a car worth over $500. (it wasn't)

 

I'm doing his right now too.


I have been having problems syphoning the fuel out of the tank as it seems to have an anti syphon mechanism. Some bright spark on another forum suggested using the fuel sender appeture to syphon the fuel out. I took the lock ring off and a whole load of fuel spilled onto my garage floor. Anyway, back to point, I dropped the whole axle assembly as it gets a new differential. I wouldn't ever cut the rear shelf, not only is it hassle- it also lessens the structural integrity of the car.


That, along with moving the knock sensor and bolting it somewhere else/and/or using another type of knock sensor (due to lack of access) have both got to rank as some of the more ill informed things to do.

 

Does the xj8 have 2 fuel pumps? or is that only the R model?

 

just the "R".

 

Read a few threads on how to fabricate a removal tool.

 

I just replaced the fuel pump on my 2000 XK8. I lowered the rear end assemble in 10 minutes. Only 7 bolts per side to remove and 4 on drive shaft. I could had just let it hang by the shocks but had a 8x12 to support it. That gave me plenty of room to get to the two fuel lines that run from the center of the fuel tank through the body. I do not suggest cutting the body.
The two center fuel tank fuel lines that run through the body.


I spent a hour or more first making a tool as suggested in order to reach the two fuel lines. Could hardly even see them to start with. If I was ever able to get them removed I would had played hell trying to reinstall them. I lowered the rear end in about 10 minutes. You could let it hang by the shocks if you needed. But I had a support under it. I have a lift so not like working off jack stands.. I also unhooked the driveshaft just because I did not know how far I would need to lower the rear end or how far it would come down with shocks still attached. 7 bolts per side to lower the rear end and 4 on your drive shaft.



2000 Jaguar XK8 fuel tank removed.



Testing the original 2000 XK8 fuel pump with a 20 amp fuse in the circuit. Tested the replacement as well before installing it in the tank.



Original fuel pump tested with 20 amp fuse in circuit. It was no good.

 

I was able to remove the top fuel pump ring on the top of the fuel tank with the tank still installed in the car. Able to lift it enough to get a fuel line in the tank and use my electric fuel pump to siphon the fuel out. The side one it sounds like you removed is your fuel level sending unit as you know. After my tank got very low I also removed the side lock ring for the fuel level unit so I was able to move my siphon hose around and get as much fuel from the tank that I could.
In this picture "far right" you can see the small electric fuel pump that I use to siphoning fuel from tanks.

 

hemitwist: What fuel pump did you use -looks like a different size? Also -- how did this pump fit on the mount? with the X308 some have to modify the mount using non-OE pumps.

 

The tank does not have to be removed from the boot, ONLY pulled back (angled) to access the EVAP flange. I put some planks on the spare wheel to slide the tank back.

Once the EVAP flange is off, the tank can be siphoned or pumped/drained to replace the pump(s). The harness that is routed through the filler neck area can be left in place if you don't remove the tank.

I have thin arms and small hands so I just reach above the rear suspension.

It helps to have a vehicle lift.

bob

 

You may find this hard to believe, but you can actually siphon the tank down to empty from the engine compartment, even through a dead in-tank pump. We had an XK8 coupe in with a bad pump and a full tank- a mess to drain for sure. But it really wasn't- using an old Jag XJ6 or XJS (80's) external FI pump, the fuel feed pipe on the XK8 fuel rail was disconnected and plumbed to the XJ6 pump inlet. A long hose was attached to the XJ6 pump outlet, leading to a gas can on the ground. With some wires jumped to a 12V battery source and ground under the hood, the XJ6 pump ran, and pumped all of the fuel out of the tank. All 10 gallons or so came out without spilling a drop. Then the new pump went in the tank (a hole was cut in the parcel shelf and then closed up), the XJ6 pump removed, the feed was reconnected under to the engine, and the fuel that was pumped out was poured back in the tank.

Amazing....

Andrew
Jaguar Specialties

PS- this trick can actually be used to get a car with bad pump to start and run (and drive, slowly) if you need to, all with the dead pump still in place in the tank....

 

My car is a Jaguar XK8 2000. Fuel pump is from O'Reilly Auto Parts. The brand is a Precision fuel pump. PFP E16006 $93.99 Its a life time free pump replacement.
And a Precision Strainer PFP S15000 $19.99
With Florida sales tax total was $121.96

What I did to make the new fuel pump work with the original metal bracket. I used the original fuel pumps top rubber ring mount. I had to cut some off along the inside ribs on the original rubber mount to make it slide down far enough on the new fuel pump like it had sat on the original one.
On the lower mount I had used one of the new ones that had come with the new fuel pump, designed to sit at the bottom on the mount, just as the original had. It was a tight fit to get the pump to fit back in the metal bracket. Once you get it in the bracket, at the top you use a standard screw driver in a slot on the metal"bracket only" and pry down on the metal bracket only. In doing so it will just slightly bend the top of the metal bracket downward, holding the new fuel pump firmly in place. Hope this helps. I did see lower costing fuel pumps but I may hang on to this Jaguar awhile longer.

 

"TANKS for a great post!"
I would like to know if anybody has determined an alternate method of installing a fuel pump in an XJS either inside the tank or outside the tank? If I remember correctly the E- Type pump is located in the boot outside the tank.
I am not thrilled about working inside a fuel tank to replace anything!

 

Replaced fuel pump cause could not hear it running when first starting car. Can hear fiuel pump now when starting. I still have the original problem. Engine starts for 6 to 12 seconds and dies like its gas starved. Fuel pump fuses in trunk are good. Fuel pump relays im not sure about. Replaced one anyway and then swapped around. How can i bench check relay? I do not have a fuel pressuro Gauge or hanheld computer diagnoser.

 

Frustrating! I assume you have changed the fuel filter(s) ? If not do so. Otherwise, since she starts, runs for a while then stops my suspicion points to the fuel pump relay. Since they are inexpensive i suggest you change the relay. Could be the fuel pump but I think unlikely.

 

As in descrep. of issue fuel pump and fuel relay have been changed. Fuel relay bench checks good. as to engine now stops and dies quickly, it smells of flooding like old time carburators. Looking into throttle valve being stuck. Car sat several days during fuel pump replacement. Thks for reply.

 

Well, apparently, it is time to replace one or two fuel pumps in my 1998 xjr. Does anybody know if you really need two regular flow fuel pumps on this car or will one high flowing 340 lph pump work? I can find one on ebay for under $30 with life time warranty.

 

My 99 is a xj8L which I can find little web info on. I assume the L is for luxury but that has been raped out of her before I got it. Like the cd deck in the trunk is gone and the supercharge relay by the battery. But im whinning. My vehicle only has one fuel pump in the gas tank, access. From the trunk.

 

One 340 lph pump ie like the Aeromotive is more then enough, even overkill for a stock R.

Why not buy a no-name pump directly from China with the same quality/source as the one from Ebay? You get them there for between 1$ to 5$ a piece if you buy them per 100. That will cover your car a lifetime and you can sell them further to supply to some others as well for a life time. Here just an example:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...5c6c3e45cQcXn6

 

The L is the designation for LONG WHEELBASE.

bob

 

Thanks for the info. I have enough devices that I might go the wholesale route.