Fuel Sound from Rear.
6/10 when I start my car at temp (not cold) there is a noise from the rear like fuel shaking or circulating vigorously and the idle is real bad, and if I give it gas it will stall or cure it self, if I don't then it will go away in 20-30 seconds.
put some gas in it! Seriously, fuel pumps on these cars are notorious for failure and it sounds like your pump is on its way out - don't let it try and scavenge fuel - lots of info about this on the forum.
So you have an initial bad idle/stall, with fuel noises - a possible in-tank fuel line fracture. Or a few other things.
Try and check fuel pressure at the injection rail, I think it's front drivers side, when you energize the ignition system the pump should prime up around 40psi at this valve, the pressure can tell you whats going on engine side.
Try and check fuel pressure at the injection rail, I think it's front drivers side, when you energize the ignition system the pump should prime up around 40psi at this valve, the pressure can tell you whats going on engine side.
So you have an initial bad idle/stall, with fuel noises - a possible in-tank fuel line fracture. Or a few other things.
Try and check fuel pressure at the injection rail, I think it's front drivers side, when you energize the ignition system the pump should prime up around 40psi at this valve, the pressure can tell you whats going on engine side.
Try and check fuel pressure at the injection rail, I think it's front drivers side, when you energize the ignition system the pump should prime up around 40psi at this valve, the pressure can tell you whats going on engine side.
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x2 on denso parts. I bought this pump from amazon:
http://a.co/5vfn9Wo
just a small modification to the upper rubber grommet around the inlet and plug, splice the new plug on, and you are in business. Im told the only direct replacement pump, just plug it in and go, is made by URO. Guess which brand pump had only 10k miles on it that i tossed in the trash?? Go denso.
http://a.co/5vfn9Wo
just a small modification to the upper rubber grommet around the inlet and plug, splice the new plug on, and you are in business. Im told the only direct replacement pump, just plug it in and go, is made by URO. Guess which brand pump had only 10k miles on it that i tossed in the trash?? Go denso.
Just pull the right hand side beautification panel off, pull the schrader valve out, turn the ignition key on but don't engage the starter. If you see a fountain of gas, pressure is not your problem. If it barely dribbles out, it's most likely a bad pump. I would replace the fuel filter after a pump change while your there anyways.
Yes - but please carry it out on a cold engine and have rags around the valve. This quick check is generally used on a crank and no start, but if your car is a non-starter no harm in checking.
it all points to an intermittent pump which can be difficult to diagnose, it's time consuming running the car with a pressure tester until it fails as you have to watch the gauge. There shouldn't be audible gas noises so something needs looking at in the tank. Have you any engine warning lights/messages when it stalls?
Almost every owner has this fuel pump failure in their files or future. Have a look at this.
http://www.mediafire.com/file/377tqn...s+Rev.+1.3.pdf
Almost every owner has this fuel pump failure in their files or future. Have a look at this.
http://www.mediafire.com/file/377tqn...s+Rev.+1.3.pdf
Whenever it stalls it says ENGINE STALLED nothing else and no codes. Should I replace the pump and filter as I have not and not wait in the future if I am stranded somewhere?
If the pump has never been replaced, by all means replace it. When I bought my wife's 00' XJ8 at the end of 2013 with a whopping 21K miles on it, I purposely had it towed across town to where I work at and replaced the fuel pump, filter and metal impeller water pump because they are problematic. It's not just mileage that effects them, it's also the age.
The hard thing about diagnosing a fuel pump is that it may run normal and pressure test normal before and during start up and while idling and driving until a complete failure. Usually fails once it gets hot and then completely shuts down. My last pump failure happened at 70 mph on the expressway and it was quick. Pulled over, started running again and failed again after a short period. I decided to get the car towed before I had a wreck.
Had the car towed home and bought a test gauge. The next day I tested it and the pressure was fine at start up and idle and everything else checked out fine so I narrowed it down to the pump. Replaced the pump, sock and filter and that solved the issue. As mentioned before, sometimes pumps are hard to diagnose unless they are completely dead. Unless you are going to DIY, take it to a shop and save yourself some aggravation and possibly an accident.
Had the car towed home and bought a test gauge. The next day I tested it and the pressure was fine at start up and idle and everything else checked out fine so I narrowed it down to the pump. Replaced the pump, sock and filter and that solved the issue. As mentioned before, sometimes pumps are hard to diagnose unless they are completely dead. Unless you are going to DIY, take it to a shop and save yourself some aggravation and possibly an accident.
The pump can fail AND fry the wiring that goes to is as well.
When I had my (2) fuel pumps replaced in my XJR, the wiring pigtail(s) had to be replaced too. I guess the failing pump draws a lot of current and takes the wiring out with it when it goes.
So, be sure to inspect the wiring to the pump(s) "while you are in there."
Vector
When I had my (2) fuel pumps replaced in my XJR, the wiring pigtail(s) had to be replaced too. I guess the failing pump draws a lot of current and takes the wiring out with it when it goes.
So, be sure to inspect the wiring to the pump(s) "while you are in there."
Vector









