That affects the characters on the display too though?

 

These were all bright white led’s including the odometer. I suppose if you were to use a bright red in your odometer that it would be overpowering enough to make the digits red also.

 

Maybe?

My 01 xjsport was green. i will have to pull the cluster to look at it. I think there is a bulb out since the top of the speedo is a bit dim

 

Thanks!

Looks like this part number from McMaster-Carr will bee a possible replacement.
91290A118
abit longer at 220mm




The window switch lights on the driver door are green. I am guessing someone has done somthing to change them to red.

Coil installed. Misfire is gone. Next up is checking the someones on mostly off tail lights and then into the driver side airbag

 

Hello everyone.

Quick update.

I have not given up on the car. Just progress was slow due to some personal and family issues.

The paperwork for the car is in the last stretch. I got my registration and plate after some issues and as long as the title shows up in the mail that is all sorted.

Pedal position code
I was getting an intermittent pedal position code sometimes with a MIL and sometimes not.
I checked the connector and it has the gold pins on the harness side so it looks like the tab was done. The likely problem is there was an ton of grease on the pins and the retaining clip is broken. I cleaned the connector with deoxit and plugged it in soundly and no issues. I will need to see if I can zip tie the connector in place or find a replacement and depin it and replace it to do a permanent fix


Fob
I have not yet found a compatible budget friendly option for a 2nd key fob

SRS
I have a code for an open circuit on the drivers side airbag still. I need to check all the wiring to se if something is unplugged or cut.

Cluster
So I noticed that the speedometer needle had somehow gone a full 360 and was ticking against the rest pin. Easy enough pull the lens and turn it back or pop it over the pin right?

Where it all went wrong.
I thought Well let me pull the cluster check the bulbs clean everything and move the needle and put it back in.
Cleaned and polished the lens and checked the bulbs. they have all been replaced with red LEDs. wiped all the dust off the housings and put the pin back to the rest position.
Then I reinstalled it and turned the car on. Low oil pressure, no fuel, battery not charging, no RPM reading, doors open, transmission fault TSC warning, SRS everything. Cant shift out of park etc.

Pulled the cluster again and went a bit deeper and someone was doing something in there at some point. So I reflowed the joints and reinstalled the cluster and slightly better but still problematic. I spent hours dicking with it.




The fix...kind of
I got rid of the **** ford connectors and used just the pin block. I splayed the pins apart just a touch on the cluster side to increase connection pressure. Boom working. the locking connectors were not giving a good connection.
As soon as it was working on a test drive as soon as i was goiing more than 10mph forward the speedometer needle spun 360 degrees and is again ticking againist the rest pin. not sure on the cause or fix for that yet.

 

Red dashboard lighting? personally that's a big YACK & EWW from me.

 

You're making progress, lothar863!

People don't realize that dielectric grease is an insulator, so when they put it on the pins of connectors for sensitive sensor circuits they are asking for trouble.

As a temporary and often permanent solution to the missing retaining clip, I will put a daub of RTV silicone sealant on the connector so it bridges both halves of the connector housing. It's easily broken if you need to detach the connector in the future, but it will usually hold permanently. I use Permatex Right Stuff for this since it sets up more quickly than most other RTV sealants.

It's very common for light corrosion or contamination in electrical connectors to cause airbag codes. For example, relevant codes can often be cleared by disconnecting and cleaning the connectors under the seats.

Cheers,

Don

 

Yeah I am not a fan of it. But I am hesitant to touch the cluster again to replace them at the time being after the nightmare i just went through.

 

Yeah that stuff should be used around the connector or gasket but no where on the pins!

wondering if it is the same issue on the airbag somewhere.

 

If you’re talking about the main airbag in the steering wheel, it might be the “cassette reel” aka “clock spring”.

 

II have had those go bad or someone repalced it uncentered and snapped the internals before

 

I removed the cluster and checked all of the reflowed connection points to see if i accidently bridged something causing my weird speedo issue but since it started before I did that I am not hopefully.

I replaced all of the red LED's in the console with hella 2721 and 2825 bulbs.

If anyone needs these bulbs I got them for cheap on rockauto as they were on clearence along with some other things I grabbed.

Next up was I popped the hvac controls out to check why the LCD in that planel had no backlight.

I pulled the bulbs and I have a clearer idea on what happened.

At some point someone pulled the custer and HVAC and took a red sharpie to the bulbs. the HVAC ones are still sharpied red.
The bulb holders in the cluster still have some red dye on them.

When they did this it likely caused the bulbs to blow and they then repalced the cluster bulbs with LEDS.

They could not figure out the bulbs in the HVAC I am guessing.

The jag part number appears to be JLM20308 Not sure if it should have the blue gel sleeve or not.

But I dont want to pay that much so I went digging in standard bulb sizes and it looks like these are just T1 bulbs with the leads bent around the holder.

You can get these much cheaper.

Also with the 3mm/4mm size this is in range to sure get bare LEDS and put them in the holder but I am not sure how the light pattern will work out so I am just ordering the bulbs and will put them in.


Currently the car has Leatherique sitting on the seats and the car in the sun.

The back seats were VERY dry and when I had them out of the car I did multiple saddle soap cleanings.

The march goes on!

 

Swapping the T1 bulbs out in the plastic bases worked fine so far.

Instead of clippiing the leads i just wrapped them around the base a second time and used a small flat head bit to press the leads into the chanels on the base

 

While waiting for the door clips I took the door panel apart and removed the cargo pocket. the foam had turned to dust and the fabric was pretty dirty with something kinda grape candy smelling melted into it

i gently removed the leather trim and removed the fabric. I ironed the fabric flat and traced it's outline onto some thin paper to make a template.

The frabic is some I had on hand that I remade/recovered the rear parcel shelf with that is canvas backed vynil from hobby lobby.

I sewed the leather trim onto the fabric and the 2 ends of the inner panel together.




I used Loctite 495 to fix the cracks in the plastic

I attached the leather to the plastic using some tandy tape and then coveryed the bottom hardboard and installed it

 

Modeled this up and got a friend to print it out for me
in the installed pic I didnt have the back channel so it didnt slide all the way in and let the clip lock

But it still locks the fuel door








I also have a chunky sunvisor clip modeled up and it is looking like it works!

 

If you model the high brake light cover and have your friend print those you would make a mint!