You could join the free MaxPerformanceCars.com Jaguar forum as they have a 'loaner' set of tools that with shipping will cost about $35. That forum was very active at one time but has become quite as of late.

GordoCatCar, who posts here also, is the tool master.

 

Also, talk to your Land Rover dealer, the news here is the 4.4/4.6 range rover engine is a bigger version of yours, and the tensioners are the same, but a 3rd less cost.

 

The ones you show pics of look the right ones. They have a metal body, the slipper has a plastic cover on its.

Also have a little read here: -

http://www.jagweb.com/aj6eng/v8_performance.php

 

FYI - regarding my phase 1 plan to fix the secondary components only and re-assess:

Christopher's on ebay sells a kit that includes secondary chains with master links. This has exactly the parts I need: gaskets, seals, latest upper tensioners, upper chains with master links. Sweet!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JAGUA...s#ht_528wt_941

 

The spark plug well seals are the wrong ones for the AJ27 cam covers. (the ones shown are for 1997/98 AJ26) You will need the 3 separate seals (black). There was a guy in the shop who bought mercedes oil pump chain master links to install the new chains. He cut the chain (pushed out a link) and put the new master link in. It had to be peened (bucked like a rivet) as it had no clip. I always just removed the front cover and replaced the parts needed. I never saw a car he did come back so he did a good job of installing the link.

bob gauff

 

I wondered about that myself and made a note to look at my covers before ordering. Thanks for the heads up!

 

I had a similar situation which the kind folks on this forum helped me out with.
Here is what I did.
My 1999 XJ8 began running poorly after I let it run too low on fuel. First thing I did was replace the filter. It was defininately clogged but still did not help.
Cleaned throttle body, which cured a reocurrung Traction/Stability Mode error.
Had the O2 senor readings so switched connection(behind engine) to test codes.
Decided the problem was upsteam so checked plugs and throughly cleaned the MAFS at the air filter. I used alcohol but everyone says the Radio Shack electrical cleaner is better.
Problem solved!
Good luck!

 

Quick update - I bought the secondary chain (master-linked)/tensioner rebuild kit and replaced the broken chain and tensioner on the passenger (US) side and was able to change just the tensioner on the driver side since the chain was unaffected. It all went very smoothly and the kit came with gaskets and seals for the reassembly.

I did not use the cam or crank locking tools, and after chains and tensioners were in the 4 cam flats were within a degree or so of being aligned simultaneously.

But still no start and really no signs of ignition, which surprises me a bit. I put in new plugs and am getting fuel. The spark looks weak to me, but there is spark - I would like to put a meter on the coil and see if it reads within range.

But more disappointing, with all cams turning I am still getting bad compression readings on at least one cylinder and need to check them all this weekend. I would like to check the cam flats with the crank lock plug installed also to make sure things are not totally out of sync.

It seemed worth a try to repair the secondary timing parts and re-test, but pulling the heads is looking more and more like my next task. Hopefully getting the heads out will not be impossible to achieve without a lift to get at the exhaust manifold.

I am also investigating rebuilt engines in case I find worn cylinders, etc. Feedback on any experience fellow members have had with rebuilders and/or machine shops in the Tampa/Sarasota Florida region would be appreciated. Or in the US for that matter.

 

Is there any chance the valves are adjusted too tight? As engines get older, the valves tend to tighten up due to valve recession. You can swap the shims around to get better valve clearances. But be warned, those shims if not re-seated properly upon re-installation can break. The usually make them out of long wearing cast iron. You will have to remove the cams to re-shim. A quick blast of brake cleaner or just plain air can blast the shim recess in the valve lifter free of oil so there is no trapped air/oil pocket that can make a shim unstable and break. You don't put grease under them either. If you need to gain clearance, they can be ground or turned thinner. You will need to know the thickness before and after they cut down. I don't recommend the average mechanic grind shims. It's very hard to get them ground parallel, and you need to fabricate a grinding fixture.
It's a lot easier & safer to measure and record all measurements on a home made valve shim chart. Make 8 large squares on a page of paper. Mark 4 left bank and 4 right bank. Mark 4 squares in each large square. Mark 2 "int", and 2 "exh". Measure all the valve clearances & record on your chart. Pull out the cams, then remove & micrometer measure each shim and record the thickness used where it was in the engine exactly. Clean the shim then write on them with a permanent marker, it's thickness.

Determine how many shims need replacing or swapping around to tighten or loosen the valves. Order the correct thickness shims to re-shim the valves. Valve clearance measurement Inlet 0.18 to 0.22 mm Exhaust0.23-0.27 mm. This is slightly more than 8 & 10 thousands of an inch clearance. Hope this get's er' going.

 

Thanks Marc, but this thread was followed by others where I rebuilt the entire timing chain system and restored the heads, generally restoring from the block out. It turned out I didn't have any damaged valves and following the proper setting procedure for the cams and VVT advance resulted in a successful restart.

I think my first attempt at a limited fix of the secondary chain was unsuccessful because I didn't go all the way on locking the cams and resetting the timing to the crank position. I'm glad I went the whole nine yards as she runs great now.

 

Congratulations on a job well done JIB. I think I know how that must have felt when it finally cranked up. I apologize for not noting the older dates in this thread. Thank you for responding.
I have 79k on my 01 XKR and already done my secondary tensioners as well as my ac compressor and battery. There is a lot of excellent help in this forum that I can't find anywhere else. When my engine jumped time by one tooth on one ex cam, I ran it over to 3 different shops. Each one with more depressing news than the other. No one recognized the real issue. They all wanted to start throwing parts in it. One thought it only needed a new set of plugs. OMG. I am glad now that I did it myself, and I am not as squeamish about jumping under the bonnet of a Jag as before. Again, when one of us has a problem, it does actually benefit all of us in our maintenance. Thanks.

00 S Type
01 XKR
06 Powerstroke
07 HD Custom Deluxe Chopper
Rotax Fan Boat
V8 S 10

 

Thanks and welcome - this forum is the best and has been a real lifeline for me. I love working on cars, but having a clue makes it even more fun!

The XKR sounds like fun, too... My second Jag will be an XJR, and I am looking at the '04 with longing.

 

I just purchased a 97 xk8 with broken drivers secondary tensioner. Reading this post ,is it possible for a secondary chain tensioner to fail completely and have the chains replaced and NOT have bent valves? I was able to use a boroscope to check the pistons and did not see any contact marks on the pistons. I thought this was strange since this is an interference engine but reading this post has given me hope? This falls into the "give it a shot" category? Thanks for any replies. Jeremy

 

YES, this is a give it a shot for sure Jeremy. My 4.0 XKR had 2 failed tensioners and a retarded timing exhaust cam drivers side. It's all good now. All I did was go to the Ford dealer and asked the man for both side tensioners to fit a 04' Lincoln LS 3.9L.
These metal tensioners vs the old 2nd gen plastic ones seem to rely more on oil pressure than spring pressure to work correctly. Upon cold startup, I can hear the chains for about 1 second. Good enough. I just turned 80,000 miles. When I get to 100,000 I plan to replace all 4 chains and related parts. At the rate I am going, this wil be in about 4 years.

 

@97xkeconv (that sounds like a nice car !) yes it is possible for the secondary cam chain tensioners to fail and the valves and pistons still be fine. It is an interference engine, but, if the chains do not jump more than one tooth, the exhaust valves will not hit the pistons. If a chain breaks, all bets are off. If you catch this issue in time, it will save you a lot of time and money.

 

well...... I purchased the car with the valve covers off and the drivers secondary chain completely off the car. I am still going to try;much hoping and even some praying will be involved.Oh does anyone here know of a tool set for purchase or rent or whatever I can do to get them?Well except for buying retail-too cheap for that. Thanks for all the replies and I'll let you folks know what I find.

 

The cam locking bars aren't necessary and a little bit over kill for your repair in MHO xkeconv. It is perfectly obvious when the cams are all in time with each other. Getting all the cams with all 4 flats level with their heads sounds like a lot, but it may be you only have one cam to time right now if I understand you correctly. I'll even suggest finding a secondary cam chain with a master link, so you don't have to remove the primary cam chain. I haven't had to replace any chains on mine yet myself, but I have heard those are available on Ebay. It stands to reason Ford might have them too.

 

For my time and money I would recommend using the tools.

The answer to your question is yes - my valves were undamaged. I did however try to eyeball (and used a square) my timing after doing just the minimal part replacement and the results were not good. Using the tools and following the official procedure, however, the results were exceptional.

Besides, it is an interference engine. If you get it wrong, there is still time for that valve damage to occur before this is all over.

 

Pictured below is an exhaust cam one tooth out of time.
Like I said. it's real obvious.


[IMG]aoladp://MA29052527-0001/out%20of%20time.JPG[/IMG]

 

One tooth with retarded timing is a lot. The cam flats may be more obvious to people with more years of engine experience. Maybe not. This engine ran with a slight rumble at idle, check engine light on, and more exhaust smell, but still made full power. Might be because it is supercharged? No exhaust valve or piston damaging even when reved to 6,000 rpm under load.