Hi gents,

Does anyone know how to disassemble the trunk lock? I want to dismantle the assembly, thoroughly clean it and it will hopefully work again.

I already tried flooding the lock mechanism with penetrating oil in situ for weeks, but this didn't work out. So I decided to remove the lock from the car and work on it on the bench.

​​​​​​With the key inserted, I can turn it from the 12 o'clock position to 2 o'clock maximum. I don't want to break anything when applying too much force, but I think there's something stuck or jammed inside. I can see that the discs moving when turning the key, but I can't move it past the 2 o'clock position.

I already read the TSB 72-64 to become familiar with the Tibbe key system, but it doesn't help with disassembling the x308 locks as the TSB refers to XJ40 (or even earlier) models.

Thanks very much for any help provided on this issue.
Cheers, Alexander

 

If it's anything like the ignition lock, which I suspect it is, it can be serviced. When I bought a complete new lockset for my car I had to do a bit of work on them before I could fit them.
I can't recall exactly what I did, but the replacement set was LHD, some parts/operation where reversed so had to swap parts for it to work, this meant I had to strip the barrel. As long as you layout the parts as they come out in sequence you should be able to free it, clean it then rebuild it. A light coating of lithium/silicon grease helps.

 

Thanks Sean for reporting!
My research reveiled that the inner barrel can be removed as the key is fully turned (according to this source: X300 Boot (trunk) Manual Lock Overhaul ~ Jaguar Vanden Plas "The cats meow").
I reckon that fully turning the key will unlock a retaining pin in the inside which allows the barrel to be removed from its housing.
Currently I'm soaking my lock in penetrating oil and I'm trying to get an used ultrasonic bath off eBay or the german equivalent to Craigslist :-)

Cheers, Alexander

 

Dear gents,

Finally I managed the trunk lock to turn freely again. For the last two days I soaked the whole assembly (without seal) in penetrating oil. Unfortunately this had no effect.
So I took a different approach and heated the whole assembly with a hot-air gun. Thankfully this helped the inner barrel to move – at first just a bit but finally it came out

Having separated the inner barrel it became obvious that a few strike to the back of the barrel would’ve cut short the whole process. Contrary to my beforementioned assumption the locking pin does NOT lock the barrel to the housing but allows it to turn in the housing. This means that in full working order only the circlip at the back prevents the barrel from being pulled out. In the pictures it’s not hard to see that the groove for the locking pin is full-length.

I disassembled the barrel a bit further but I stopped after I separated the endcap, the flap and the keyhole disc. I couldn’t figure out how to disassemble the Tibbe disc unit from the barrel. So I was happy to thoroughly clean the assembly and its parts and regreased it. Same procedure for the housing.
I think the weak spot of the whole trunk lock assembly is that contact corrosion builds up between the aluminium housing and the polished endcap of the lock barrel. I didn’t find any significant corrosion anywhere else than in between the endcap and the four pins of the housing.
By the way – the seal is a common V-ring VA25 (https://www.ebay.de/itm/V-Ring-V-Rin..._0oeWSqKL0gYbg).

Cheers, Alexander

 

thanks

 

Very well illustrated and described. I am certain more than a few will find
the information helpful.

 

When some of you who have taken this lock apart do you know the purpose if that roll pin that lays in that Grove.

 

The roll pin in a lock assembly allows the plug to rotate, which allows the lock to open.. When the key is not
in the lock, the pin straddles the shear point, which then prevents the plug from rotating.

 

Thanks