I need to remove the stock 6x9 subwoofer from the rear deck.
The speaker is blown so i disconnected it. I installed my 12w7-3 in the trunk and the excess vibration and air movement make the stock 6x9 move and you can hear that its blown. Also, the bass is not too loud in the car so i figured that if i remove the speaker the opening will act as a port to the trunk.

I can see that the rear deck lining has to be removed to gain access to the speaker screws, but i cant see how to remove the lining. i dont want to break it..

Please help!

 

anybody out there that can help me????!!?

 

Unfortunately, you have to remove several things to get to the speaker. Here are the directions straight from JTIS:

* Open both rear doors.
* Remove rear seat cushion.
* Remove rear seat squab.
* Remove and discard the two fir tree fasteners securing front of tray to parcel shelf.
* Remove parcel tray.
* Slightly raise front of shelf trim and lift rear fold clear of body flange.
* Exercising care to avoid damaging sun blind (if fitted) and rear quarter trims, or dislodging high level stop lamp, slide trim from shelf, twist slightly and remove from vehicle via rear doors.

TTYL
David

 

Thanks a lot!
I did it except I put a hairline crack in my rear deck attempting to remove it. I guess i didn't exercise enough care. Maybe i should have removed the seatbelt reals before attempting to remove the deck.

Anyone have a rear deck for sale in tan leather? lol

Thanks again.

 

Mine is blown out also.... However, I'm going to cut off the subwoofer and upgrade the rest of the speakers. Unless there is a way to replace that subwoofer with something more powerful? I thought that speaker size was proprietary to Jaguar in terms of depth because of the gas tank.

 

I've replaced mine too. It's just a 6x9, it's a bit of a stretch for Jaguar to call it a subwoofer.

The only special features are:
* A very shallow mounting depth--like you said, the gas tank is directly underneath and there's very little space under the grille
* It's a dual-voice coil, it has stereo leads going to it. You'll have to get the polarity right on the replacement or the signals cancel each other.

TTYL
David

 

Wbmike, after removing the old 6x9, does the 12w7v3 make the car shake pretty good now? I find the gas tank makes for a good sound dampener...especially on bass tones

 

yes, with the 6x9 removed you hear the bass much louder in the car. There is really no need to have the 6x9 installed if you have a sub in the trunk. In fact, like i said, its louder without it because it acts like an air port to the trunk.

 

A friend of mine used this 6x9 dual voice coil speaker as a replacement and said it sounded better than the factory one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1955-...Q5fAccessories

$39.95 + $8.25 SH seems like a decent price to replace the factory setup.

CUSTOM AUTO SOUND 6X9 140 WATT DUAL VOICE COIL SPEAKER MOUNTS IN THE ORIGINAL LOCATION.

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS FEEL FREE TO CALL US AT 770-324-4098

GA RESIDENTS MUST PAY 7% SALES TAX


Please wait
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http://www.casmfg.com/DVC_Speakers.htm

6"x9" Dual Voice Coil Speaker
● Stereo Input to One Speaker
● 140 Watts Peak Power
● Dual Tweeters
● 4 Ohm Impedance
● Freq. Response 67hz - 20Khz

Depth- 3-5/16" width 6-7/16" length 9-1/8"

 

Does anyone know where the wires to the subwoofer are????? My mechanic installed a new fuel filter and he had to remove the gas tank. In the process, 2 months later which I just noticed, he cut off the subwoofer wires! My subwoofer doesn't function as all the wires to the speaker unit are cut and frayed. I haven't attempted to remove the back seats and other areas to get to the subwoofer....yet. I'm hoping someone has traced this wire and that it's not that difficult to reconnect. Thanks

 

The amplifier is above the driver's side rear wheel well. the wire travels up along the gastank to the rear 6x9 there are 2 sets of wires for the subwoofer since it is dual voicecoil.

Hope this helps

 

Thanks for your reply Mike. I found the wires that lead to the amp. Apparently the 2 tabs that connect to the speaker wires have been broken off. I have to take it to the stereo shop to have it fixed.

 

FYI, wfd, there are four wires that lead to the sub - it's a dual voice coil unit... so if you've only found two keep looking for the other two.

 

I finally got to working on the subwoofer. I followed the steps to remove the seats and all the other components. Once I got to the subwoofer, I noticed it was damaged in more areas. The actual speaker was torn of its housing. I decided to shop around for a speaker once I removed the old Harmon Kardon Jaguar speaker. It was difficult looking for a 6x9 subwoofer. Most have a tweeter and you actually have to buy a pair which is what I did. I ended up with an Alpine SPS-609. It sat a bit low on the speaker housing (hitting the gas tank). Fortunately, the set came with 2 spacers which I used to prop up the speaker and give me enough clearance from the gas tank. I only used one of the wires. This way, if I wanted to add another subwoofer (bazooka) or speaker, I can do it a later time. The speakers turned out great and I couldn't be more happier. 260 Watts of peak perfomance really delivers. As for casualties, I did damage the 3 plastic seat belt attachments on top of the seat. $30 each to replace. I'm glad I didn't have to buy a whole new seat. Overall cost of the speaker is $105 and another $90 to replace the seat belt attachments. I got beats!!!!

 

I am having teh same issue with a blown speaker (sub),I noticed these postings are a long timme ago.Does any one have any updated information on replcement for the sub-woofer - I have a 98 VP,Thanks and Happy Holiday to all,

 

It's not easy from what I read. Rear seat had to come out to get the rear deck shelf out.

 

It's usually just the foam surround that has come loose or disintegrated. You can repair it with a kit (6" x 9" Angled Speaker Repair Kit For Replacing Foam Surrounds) from SpeakerWorks.com: Speakers, Speaker Building Parts, Speaker Repair Kits, Woofers, Drivers, & More. Costs about $13 for the kit, the tough part is getting the back seat squab out. Search the forum or check JTIS for info on how to remove the seat back.

I did mine and it sounds great.
Vector

 

Speaker foam rings have a working life of around 15 years-after that they start to disintegrate. Repair kits are available for various speaker sizes & are much cheaper than just buying a new unit. As well as the Jag I have a 16-year old Bentley Turbo R & when I bought it, all 4 of it's door bass speakers were rattling & sounded bloody awful. I took them out & sure enough all the foam rings had disintegrated. I put some similar-sized new driver units in place & have ordered a set of new foam rings to fix the original Bentley speakers-they were really cheap.

The hardest part with the Jag subwoofer is actually removing it from the car, as the rear seat base, back & seatbelt mountings have to come out to get the rear shelf out.

I'm in the process of upgrading the standard system in my XJR to the Premium system, so have had the back seat & rear shelf out to see how best to fit a subwoofer. I got the Premium system Power Amp from a Jag breakers off ebay & fitted it in the boot above the Sat-Nav/CD autochanger stack.

I had to make my own wiring harnesses to connect the Amp to the car wiring-I found a UK supplier which sold the white Multilock 070 connectors & using the circuit diagrams I built my own harnesses-one for the power supply to the amp & one for the speaker connections.

The power supply harness & plug was wired up in the boot & I routed the new speaker harness & plug through the rear wing into the passenger compartment, following the same route as the main vehicle I.C.E harness. The actual vehicle speaker plug sits under the LH rear seat heelboard. The vehicle speakers are connected to the socket & on the standard system are driven from the facia head unit via the plug. This plug was disconnected at the rear heelboard & then the new plug from the boot-mounted Power Amp was connected, so the speakers are now driven from the Power Amp.

The facia head unit had to come out as there is a switch underneath to select between the Standard & Premium systems. When I first switched on the Power Amp there was only sound available from the CD-nothing came from the radio until I moved the head unit switch to the Premium position.

The front door tweeters were disconnected from the bass drivers & I routed new wires through to the car harness to connect to the separate tweeter drive from the Power Amp-although they're still in the door & not on the A-pillars as in the Premium system. The rear speakers were left untouched as the bass & tweeter units are connected in parallel on both the Standard & Premium systems-it's only the front speakers that are driven separately for the bass & tweeter drivers.

The 2 leads to the subwoofer voice coils were checked & found to work fine when connected to a couple of the standard Jag round door speakers for testing purposes, so at least I know the subwoofer drives are live & working.

The head unit recognised the Power Amp from the Premium system & now shows the subwoofer level & audio position on the head unit display menu.

It was quite a big job & it's still not finished yet-there's a few loose ends to tidy-up regarding speaker types & the subwoofer, but the Power Amp & wiring loom all function correctly.

I did it because I was annoyed that somebody ordered a top-line XJR from new & only specified the Standard audio system

 

I have been looking through several threads and just want to be sure how to remove my rear seat. I have followed the pdf and I have heard there are bolts behind the center arm rest that actually anchor the seat. Can someone please show me a diagram or something where these bolts may be or exactly how the seat comes out. I don't want to pry up if there are bolts holding the seat back and bottom down.

Thanks in advance,

Dan