Inoperative trunk button, reverse sensors & remote doorlock fob after flooding
After getting the car partially submerged underwater (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-start-103081/) there are these problems:
- trunk button does nothing when pressed (need to use key to open)
- fuel filler door is stuck in the locked position
- reverse sensors don't work (no sound backing up near objects)
- remote keyfob doesn't do anything (but power doorlocks work fine via the key)
- power doorlocks work perfectly with key, but not interior lock/unlock button.
All the taillights seems to work fine, as does the radio-amp and power antenna.
Any ideas on what needs fixing?
- trunk button does nothing when pressed (need to use key to open)
- fuel filler door is stuck in the locked position
- reverse sensors don't work (no sound backing up near objects)
- remote keyfob doesn't do anything (but power doorlocks work fine via the key)
- power doorlocks work perfectly with key, but not interior lock/unlock button.
All the taillights seems to work fine, as does the radio-amp and power antenna.
Any ideas on what needs fixing?
Last edited by vdpnyc; Sep 26, 2013 at 02:14 PM.
some fuses blown? have you checked them in the trunk fuse box? I'd be inclined to open and empty the trunk of all bits and pieces then air dry the lot, all wiring connections, fuses and relays - a hairdryer and paper towels to dry/collect all moisture. Then replace all blown fuses and see where you are at that point.
Ahh, check fuses, that should have been obvious to me, doh! Thank you, I needed that smack in the head, haha. Now please pray for me that its only a blown fuse...
Everything was dry by the morning except a few papers and absorbant things that I had in there, the water never reached the trunk floor so everything below that is basically metal and wiring and the spare tire.
Everything was dry by the morning except a few papers and absorbant things that I had in there, the water never reached the trunk floor so everything below that is basically metal and wiring and the spare tire.
Okay, checked every fuse in the trunk and all are intact :-(
Most of the problems I am experiencing seem to be related to the functions of fuse #10 (which is indeed not blown), anyone know how I can trace the wiring to that fuse or if there are any other things I should be checking?
Thank you
Most of the problems I am experiencing seem to be related to the functions of fuse #10 (which is indeed not blown), anyone know how I can trace the wiring to that fuse or if there are any other things I should be checking?
Thank you
No I didn't as none of the fuses seem linked to the problem and the water never entered the vehicle cabin or hood area (it was parked on an incline during the incident). Is there a particular "master" fuse or wiring harness that leads to fuse #10 in the trunk?
Is there a way to measure if there is current at the fuse itself? Can I do this with an ordinary electrical tester or will the high amperage fry it?
Is there a way to measure if there is current at the fuse itself? Can I do this with an ordinary electrical tester or will the high amperage fry it?
Last edited by vdpnyc; Sep 27, 2013 at 01:20 AM.
Just realized that the power doorlocks only work with the key, not the remote or the inside button or from the drivers doorlock rod or the auto lock feature when you put it in drive - considering the length of the lwb, basically I cannot lock the rear doors while driving. Anyone with a suggestion of what I should check for next?
Thank you
Thank you
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Just realized that the power doorlocks only work with the key, not the remote or the inside button or from the drivers doorlock rod or the auto lock feature when you put it in drive - considering the length of the lwb, basically I cannot lock the rear doors while driving. Anyone with a suggestion of what I should check for next?
Thank you
Thank you
The electronic systems in this car are heavily integrated and interdependent and 1 minute to reset them is definitely worth a try.
From my recent experience you need to look at fuse no 1 and fuse no 10 again in the boot. they are both 10amp fuses and sit at the beginning of each row on the right hand side of the fuse box.
A visual check of these fuses is sometimes not enough. Replace these two fuses with new ones.
A visual check of these fuses is sometimes not enough. Replace these two fuses with new ones.
Did your security and locking control module get soaked? It is under the fuse panel in the boot sitting almost on the floor, by the battery.
If it has had a good soaking you probably need to get a new one. Preferably second hand to save on cost if it is not the module that is faulty. In the UK approx. $55 s/h.
To remove S&LMC, remove fuse 1 & 10 or for more safety disconnect battery making sure you have radio code and any information you want from your trip computer.
Unscrew 3 bolts holding fuse box to car.
Lift fuse box up and unclip S & LMC from fuse box.
Unscrew ariel lead
Pull out electrical plugs. Not by the wires - if you need too use a flat blade screw driver to ease them out. You need to depress the little security catch on the plugs.
You can open the box if you are careful and see if there are scorch marks on the circuit board and also dry it out if it is wet.
If you are getting a second hand unit you need the correct numbers from your unit.
Refitting is the reverse of the above. You will then need to reprogram your key fobs.
If it has had a good soaking you probably need to get a new one. Preferably second hand to save on cost if it is not the module that is faulty. In the UK approx. $55 s/h.
To remove S&LMC, remove fuse 1 & 10 or for more safety disconnect battery making sure you have radio code and any information you want from your trip computer.
Unscrew 3 bolts holding fuse box to car.
Lift fuse box up and unclip S & LMC from fuse box.
Unscrew ariel lead
Pull out electrical plugs. Not by the wires - if you need too use a flat blade screw driver to ease them out. You need to depress the little security catch on the plugs.
You can open the box if you are careful and see if there are scorch marks on the circuit board and also dry it out if it is wet.
If you are getting a second hand unit you need the correct numbers from your unit.
Refitting is the reverse of the above. You will then need to reprogram your key fobs.
Excellent, it was very wet around there, so that is a great assessment. 2 questions, can I still drive normally after removing the box + fuse 1 & 10 (until the replacement box arrives)? Why do I need to disconnect the Arial?
You have to remove the arial to the S & LMC not for the radio. Comes out of the side facing the battery.
If you check your lower rear brake lights you will probably find that they are not working. The upper brake light (in the rear window) works on a different circuit.
I would not drive without all my brake lights!
If you want to take the unit apart you will find it easier if you push in little wedges (wooden match sticks or similar) on 3 sides of the box as there are about 9 little wedge catches you need to get past. Be careful to push the wedges in only about 1/4 inch otherwise you might break the circuit board. You will see what I mean when you get the unit out.
If you are not sure of the number of your unit and the frequency post your numbers on here and some one will be able to help you.
If you check your lower rear brake lights you will probably find that they are not working. The upper brake light (in the rear window) works on a different circuit.
I would not drive without all my brake lights!
If you want to take the unit apart you will find it easier if you push in little wedges (wooden match sticks or similar) on 3 sides of the box as there are about 9 little wedge catches you need to get past. Be careful to push the wedges in only about 1/4 inch otherwise you might break the circuit board. You will see what I mean when you get the unit out.
If you are not sure of the number of your unit and the frequency post your numbers on here and some one will be able to help you.
Last edited by johnco; Oct 4, 2013 at 11:05 AM.
Wow, good call suggesting the security module, it's really fried (see photo) there are a handful of transistors visibly burnt and corrosion all over.
What numbers need to match on the replacement unit? (photo is attached to this post.) From my catv it says SLM: LNG2600HB/008, so any #8 unit with the same model number should work, right?
What numbers need to match on the replacement unit? (photo is attached to this post.) From my catv it says SLM: LNG2600HB/008, so any #8 unit with the same model number should work, right?
Last edited by vdpnyc; Oct 20, 2013 at 07:35 PM.
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