XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

I've changed these 15 things in the last 2 months, I now have 650 HP+ on tap :)

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  #61  
Old 09-29-2013, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Cambo351
Nice stolen picture RPi Exhaust (F10 M5) Dyno results are in. OH YEA!

You're really being silly now...
That was EXACTLY my point!

I'm glad someone got it.

I am being silly, I did think it would be funny to send people on a wild goose chase by giving an example of exactly what I was talking about.

All of my posts say exactly where I am with the Nitrous, which is that it is not yet functional on my car, and that I think I am at approx 470-475 HP on the motor.

This is exactly why I am suggesting VIDEO proof as ANYONE can post a fake dyno.

I left a hint in my edit explanation that the post was bogus as well as the names of the photos.

When I make my runs they will be on video, and when I do a dyno, it will be posted on video.

But again, I am not selling anything
 

Last edited by WaterDragon; 09-29-2013 at 09:28 PM. Reason: heh
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:20 PM
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  #63  
Old 09-29-2013, 10:50 PM
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heh, don't take it too seriously.

Just making my point of how easy it is to provide fake evidence via a pic.
 
  #64  
Old 09-30-2013, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SeismicGuy
Thanks. By the way I have never gotten a definitive answer from what a bone stock XKR might gain by just swapping the stock downpipes with the Nameless Performance cats. My impression is not much difference at least on a bang-for-the-buck basis.

Doug
It all depends on what condition the stock cats are in.
You'll get far better results with a full intake system and for much less money too.
 

Last edited by SteveM; 09-30-2013 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by XJR-99
I guess you have stock 4.0 head gaskets? Using that amount of NOS with already higher than stock boost, it's very, very close to burn at least your gaskets if not blow up whole engine even you have NOS controller. 4.0 pistons are not forged ones. Be careful with amount of NOS in stock internal engine. Maybe 150hp shot is ok, but maybe not.
Here is one that I prepared Earlier
 
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dc4prez
Here is one that I prepared Earlier
Here is one what? What have you prepared?




In other news, We now have a report of another 4.0 XJR running 450 RWHP with NOS. This is good. 450 / .83 = 542 Flywheel HP

So, it has been suggested that similar 4.0s have/ are running 450 RWHP = 542 Flywheel HP, so is there any reason to assume mine could not handle the same level?

If you read my posts, it is very clearly stated that the "on tap" figure is clearly explained as theoretical, and that my goal is to be able to run an 11.99, and that might not require more than a +70 or 100 RWHP shot.

Would 542 flywheel HP enable me to get to an 11.99? Opinions?

So my now calculated 476 (from 10.5 sec 0-100mph run below) subtracted from the 542 flywheel hp figure above is a difference of 66 HP. So I if I only run a +70 rwhp jet / .83= +84 flywheel hp jet....

476+84= 560 flywheel hp.

Steve, would it be fair to say you were running approx 550-560 flywheel hp when you ran your 11.92? If so, theoretically I might be able to match that with a +70 jet.
 

Last edited by WaterDragon; 09-30-2013 at 11:42 PM.
  #67  
Old 09-30-2013, 10:53 PM
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Video showing 17 psi of boost at 5000 rpm! Yeah Baby! 65 degrees out.

I wish my phone would have started recording earlier, with 140 lbs less in the car it is faster than the last run. This run was faster than my last 10.8 sec 0-100 mph run. See how fast it spools up 1st and 2nd gear If you blink, you will miss first gear.

The 0-100 mph @ 4160 lbs calculates the flywheel HP at 476 for this run.
 

Last edited by WaterDragon; 10-01-2013 at 11:07 AM.
  #68  
Old 10-01-2013, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by WaterDragon
Steve, would it be fair to say you were running approx 550-560 flywheel hp when you ran your 11.92? If so, theoretically I might be able to match that with a +70 jet.
That's about right. This calculator- Calculate HP with HP Correction - Wallace Racing puts me at 546 hp.
 
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  #69  
Old 10-01-2013, 10:11 AM
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Excellent,

I'm hoping I can soon test the "theory" and make it a reality.
 
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Old 10-01-2013, 10:41 AM
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Last week I saw 22-23PSI fuel pressure increases at WOT. IAT1 ( MAF ) was +1C ( 34F ) . Fuel 109 octane ( US 105 Octane )
 

Last edited by XJR-99; 10-01-2013 at 10:53 AM.
  #71  
Old 10-01-2013, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by XJR-99
Last week I saw 22-23PSI fuel pressure increases at WOT. IAT1 showed +1C ( 34F ) . Fuel 109 octane.
1 degree over freezing, that is some very cold, very very dense air.

Wow! that is A LOT of boost. Are you saying 22-23 psi boost, as in the fuel pressure increases matched boost, or did I read your post wrong?

What happened? Did you lift a head a little and blow a head gasket?

I was thinking at some point to switch to stronger and thicker head gaskets to lower compression a little and swap to ARP head studs.
 

Last edited by WaterDragon; 10-01-2013 at 11:06 AM.
  #72  
Old 10-01-2013, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by WaterDragon
1 degree over freezing, that is some very cold, very very dense air.

Wow! that is A LOT of boost. Are you saying 22-23 psi boost, as in the fuel pressure increases matched boost, or did I read your post wrong?

What happened? Did you lift a head a little and blow a head gasket?

I was thinking at some point to switch to stronger and thicker head gaskets to lower compression a little and swap to ARP head studs.
If the Autometer fuel pressure gauge was right, it was that boost.
At least some rear wheel spin when kickdown at 70MPH. Dry road.
 
  #73  
Old 10-01-2013, 12:09 PM
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Any ideas what your iats are at that boost?
I bet a water/meth kit would do wonders for you with that kind of boost.
When do you think you can get it back on the road?
 
  #74  
Old 10-01-2013, 12:14 PM
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At least some rear wheel spin when kickdown at 70MPH. Dry road.[/QUOTE]

What tires are you using? When I had P Zeros on my car in the winter the tarc light would come on when accelerating on the highway. They were awful in the cold weather.
 
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by WaterDragon
Any ideas what your iats are at that boost?
I bet a water/meth kit would do wonders for you with that kind of boost.
When do you think you can get it back on the road?
No idea about the real IAT, but I guess 34F helped quite a much.
Season is almost over here, 38F right now. There are some ideas what happened, but I will update when sure about the details.
 
  #76  
Old 10-02-2013, 05:19 AM
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Default the one i preparared earlier

I have heaps of trouble up loading pics on this site

around 6,000RPM 4th gear 1-2 seconds detonation - Hood jumped up a 1/2"
1 and 2 cyls right bank
you can see detonation damage on forward cyl - top ring exposed
head gasket destroyed and a major flame-out through cyl wall.
Big boost and low fuel pressure is probably the major cause.
 
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  #77  
Old 10-02-2013, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by dc4prez
I have heaps of trouble up loading pics on this site

around 6,000RPM 4th gear 1-2 seconds detonation - Hood jumped up a 1/2"
1 and 2 cyls right bank
you can see detonation damage on forward cyl - top ring exposed
head gasket destroyed and a major flame-out through cyl wall.
Big boost and low fuel pressure is probably the major cause.
My condolences for your loss.

May I ask a few questions? First, which KB twin screw kit were you using? Secondly, what instructions were you given to prepare the fuel delivery system to deliver the additional demands of fuel? And finally, what would you recommend to do if you had to do it over again?

Thank you for sharing your information.

Chuck
 
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Old 10-02-2013, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by XJR-99
No idea about the real IAT, but I guess 34F helped quite a much.
Season is almost over here, 38F right now. There are some ideas what happened, but I will update when sure about the details.
Have you had a OOPS as well XJR-99

off topic
I'm looking in to Kenne Bell boosta pump - then mine heads to Dyno,
I don't like how they activate them, they use a boost sensor , I'm looking at TPS voltages -- I'll PM that too you when I have more info.
 
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Old 10-02-2013, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaxkr
At least some rear wheel spin when kickdown at 70MPH. Dry road.
What tires are you using? When I had P Zeros on my car in the winter the tarc light would come on when accelerating on the highway. They were awful in the cold weather.[/QUOTE]

GoodYear Eagle F1, rear ones almost bald. Time you buy new set. I just bought these kind of wheels in mint condition:
 
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Old 10-02-2013, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dc4prez
Have you had a OOPS as well XJR-99


off topic
I'm looking in to Kenne Bell boosta pump - then mine heads to Dyno,
I don't like how they activate them, they use a boost sensor , I'm looking at TPS voltages -- I'll PM that too you when I have more info.
I really hope nothing too serious. Maybe just clogged breather system with lot of blue smoke which went even worse when added more oil before the race, but better to make cylinder pressure test as well as check cylinder walls with endoscope. I am ready for any bad news... Even with big engine problems car run 12.5/110.
 


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