Just replacing upper shock bushings
The shocks were recently done on my XJ8 however the bushings were not replaced and I want to put some urethane ones up front. I have the bushings on the way, and I know how to do the whole shock assembly but is there a quick way to just do the mounts?
Last edited by Probesport; Feb 20, 2013 at 03:25 PM.
Yep, unbolt the top shock plate after removing the top shock bolt, I lower the wheel down slowly on the jack and lift the plate clear.
Either press the old out, new in, or use a bfh.
Bolt the plate back onto the chassis and jack the wheel back up, install the top shock bolt, lower the wheel and beer time.
Hope that helps
Either press the old out, new in, or use a bfh.
Bolt the plate back onto the chassis and jack the wheel back up, install the top shock bolt, lower the wheel and beer time.
Hope that helps
Just did mine, I used a small crowbar to separate the large washer from the tube going through the bushes. I did drink a beer while doing this install, and I used a BFH to reconnect everything. If you need a press you're not drinking enough beer or eating enough spinach.
Just did mine, I used a small crowbar to separate the large washer from the tube going through the bushes. I did drink a beer while doing this install, and I used a BFH to reconnect everything. If you need a press you're not drinking enough beer or eating enough spinach.
Yep, unbolt the top shock plate after removing the top shock bolt, I lower the wheel down slowly on the jack and lift the plate clear.
Either press the old out, new in, or use a bfh.
Bolt the plate back onto the chassis and jack the wheel back up, install the top shock bolt, lower the wheel and beer time.
Hope that helps
Either press the old out, new in, or use a bfh.
Bolt the plate back onto the chassis and jack the wheel back up, install the top shock bolt, lower the wheel and beer time.
Hope that helps

Where did you get the bushing's,mine are starting to go and would like to replace them. Thanks Rob
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Bushings=If they are stock, replace them
Shocks= Bounce the car by pushing down on the corner above the shock and let it bounce up, it should come up and rest. it shouldn't keep bouncing.
This is a simple bounce test and it is not definitive by any stretch however it will give you a clue into the shocks ability. Generally you take age and roads it drives on and replace based on maintenance.
The best way to check them is to remove them and test individually.
Shocks= Bounce the car by pushing down on the corner above the shock and let it bounce up, it should come up and rest. it shouldn't keep bouncing.
This is a simple bounce test and it is not definitive by any stretch however it will give you a clue into the shocks ability. Generally you take age and roads it drives on and replace based on maintenance.
The best way to check them is to remove them and test individually.
can I ask a basic question?
Are we talking about the part marked with the red arrow in this picture?
And in response to Chris' question, these look fairly FUBAR'd right?
Don't know how to tell if the shock is bad, but I'd argue if the bushing looks like this, its not good (BTW 96,000km on a 1998 XJR)
Last question: is there a different spec for the CATS dampers or is it all one?
If the Welshs deal applies to mine, I just saved 500€ vs the price of the complete mounting plates :-)
Lincoln
Are we talking about the part marked with the red arrow in this picture?
And in response to Chris' question, these look fairly FUBAR'd right?
Don't know how to tell if the shock is bad, but I'd argue if the bushing looks like this, its not good (BTW 96,000km on a 1998 XJR)
Last question: is there a different spec for the CATS dampers or is it all one?
If the Welshs deal applies to mine, I just saved 500€ vs the price of the complete mounting plates :-)
Lincoln
Found mine on ebay, I actualy added a few rubbber shims from home depot to fatten it up. Unfortunately the shock nut and washer will only bolt down "so far" leaving a little room. Car will make a decent rattle if them bushings are shot
Yep, unbolt the top shock plate after removing the top shock bolt, I lower the wheel down slowly on the jack and lift the plate clear.
Either press the old out, new in, or use a bfh.
Bolt the plate back onto the chassis and jack the wheel back up, install the top shock bolt, lower the wheel and beer time.
Hope that helps
Either press the old out, new in, or use a bfh.
Bolt the plate back onto the chassis and jack the wheel back up, install the top shock bolt, lower the wheel and beer time.
Hope that helps

I left the wheels on the ground. Left side (US) needs the power steering tank moved aside to access the foward ten mikemike. But simple, pulls off the top of the shock. Used 1# ball peen bfh and a socket that sat inside the female fitting to separate the bushings; used a long bolt and nut to put the new ones together.
Bought mine from Motorsport, missed the cheaper Welsh.
Huge improvement. Put new Bilsteins on (much simpler than JTIS) even easier if the mounts are already off the car. Inserted shock rod, partially bolted down the upper mount.
Put the tires back on, slowly lowered the cat, shocks popped in cleanly, tightened the mount bolts, tightened the top shock bolt, torqued all.
Even better ride improvement; with new swaybar bushings, today, r ide is as good as I remember from my prev XJ8 in 2002, when it was nearly new with less than 1500 miles.
Bought mine from Motorsport, missed the cheaper Welsh.
Huge improvement. Put new Bilsteins on (much simpler than JTIS) even easier if the mounts are already off the car. Inserted shock rod, partially bolted down the upper mount.
Put the tires back on, slowly lowered the cat, shocks popped in cleanly, tightened the mount bolts, tightened the top shock bolt, torqued all.
Even better ride improvement; with new swaybar bushings, today, r ide is as good as I remember from my prev XJ8 in 2002, when it was nearly new with less than 1500 miles.
Last edited by Jhartz; May 20, 2013 at 04:36 PM. Reason: iPad sucks for this function
Mike








