I have a 99 VDP that sat in storage for a year. I was so excited to get to use it this summer. The gas went bad while sitting....and was very hard to get restarted. It backfired a couple times during starting process. All message popped up from check engine, abs, traction control error, reduced performance. I got around 9 codes. I was aware if the o2 sensors before storage(P1646&P1647-linear o2 sensor chip: bank 1&2). The others that popped up were P0560(system voltage), P1224(electric throttle control position error), P0327(knock sensor circuit low input bank 1). I have tried clearing the codes but they come back...☹️
So far I can tell it's running rough and a small knock in park idling. It drives fine. Does have a delay and punch from the rear end if accelerated from a stop quickly. Never had problems with it. Drove it a few months and garaged it. I'm planning on replacing spark plugs and o2 sensors right now. Any advice of things to look for?

 

You MUST fix the faults or you risk serious engine/catalyst damage and in any case it won't run right.

 

I am not driving it as I know I don't want to damage anything. Just a novice when it comes to a Jaguar

 

Welcome to the forums Lnghairbeauty,

I've moved your post from General Tech Help to X308 forum. This is the place to posts technical questions about your model.

Graham

 

I'm a new Jaguar owner also, I just drove a 1999 XJ 8 Vandan Plas about 800 miles in 2 days with a "restricted performance" code coming on intermittently. The cruise control blew out going uphill in western Pennsylvania and as long as I did not accelerate strongly I averaged about 22 mpg. That's the good news.

Passing from upstate NY to Traverse City, Michigan, I called a Jaguar dealer outside Detroit in Farmington Hills and asked if they could give me an hour of shop time to tell me what "Restricted performance" meant. They responded: "We don't work on any vehicles older than 2003." Does that tell us anything ?

So my wife likes things to work right and since this is "her car" ( I drive a Toyota Tacoma without problems) the vehicle ended up with a mechanic in Grawn, Michigan who called us and said, " the knock sensors need replacing and the cruise control will work after we replace them." I thought what the h_ll do knock sensors have to do with the cruise control? My wife wanted the car repaired. We picked it up today after paying them $3,373 and the cruise control still doesn't work. Cigar lighters don't work either. The good news is my wife realizes we were played and agrees we will find another mechanic to work on it.

Can anyone give me an idea where to start ?

 

How long did the cruise control work for during your trip? I don’t need exact time or mileage, just a ballpark figure. That P1224 is the likely cause why the CC stopped working.

That P0560 system voltage code, I’ve not seen or heard of that one before. Just to be clear, this code came back on after you had the codes cleared?

What all did the shop diagnose and/or replace on the car?

 

Thank you ever so much for your thoughts and assistance. I drove for nearly an hour with the cruise control engaged. It failed going uphill sounded like a bang and a downshift. I pulled off onto the shoulder slowing down and then gently accelerated after traffic passed by back onto Interstate 80. After driving another 10-15 minutes I tried the cruise control again. Similar symptoms: drove for 10-15 minutes sudden bang and downshifting. but the car still ran at 70 mph. After both incidents, red light on console, near the shifter, lights up when depressed, but the buttons on the steering wheel no longer activate the cruise control. I will see if I can obtain code info.
Thanks again

 

I found some additional information: when codes were scanned 10 faults appeared. After they were cleared, P0328 and P0333 came back immediately.
Knock Sensors 1 and 2 circuit high
5 V at both connectors, key on engine off on brown, 12 V to ground at both whites. Plugged in and running, neither read 0 hz all the time. Tapping on both with extension will read 15 hz sometimes.
Both knock sensors were replaced: Intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, fuel injector o ring kit and breather hose replaced.

Thermostat housing (now aluminum) and thermostat were replaced and a new water pump and drive belt were installed. Shop said housing was cracked.

I was told before work was initiated the cruise control would work after the knock sensors were replaced. It does not work.

 

I forgot to thank you Addicted to Boost for your input.

The car is a 1999 XJS 8 Vanden Plas with about 83,000 miles on it. It sat for 2 years being started once prior to it coming into our lives. A month ago it drove well for 800+ miles although pick up was extremely limited and as said before cruise control gave up. If we can find a good wrench, who can work on it, we would like to keep it for 100,000 miles.

Thanks again for your response and interest. I do appreciate the assistance.

Clarnard

 

Can anyone recommend a code scanner that will work on-a 1999 XJS 8 ? Is this a Ford or Jaguar motor? It was built in 11/1998 in England and put on the road in the US in 2/1999.

Thanks
Clarnard

 

[If that fee was just for the knock sensors, it's not just being played it's criminal. They are $68 on Rockauto. Don't need to remove anything to get to. Don't even need to use crow foot wrench like repair manual shows. Socket fits right down through intake runners. Can you dispute it on credit card? See if your state attoney has someone who handles consumer fraud.

 

The knock sensors were replaced for $1,349, thermostat, housing and distribution pipe for another $652, water pump and belt for $449 and wiper motor replaced for $550.
It’s the cruise control issue that bugs me. My wife is dealing with cancer treatment aftermath and needs cruise to drive.
Clarnard

 

[QUOTE=Clarnard;2427820]The knock sensors were replaced for $1,349, t/QUOTE]

Replacing both knock sensors is approx 1 hour labor, and less than $100 each sensor, total cost should not be more than $350.00

.

 

Given the fact that you paid the shop to diagnose and repair the car, in reality you really shouldn’t have taken the car until it was fixed. Throwing parts at a car isn’t diagnosing nor necessarily repairing. There’s a whole lot more to that story but, it’s for another day.

Go out to the car and open the hood. You may or may not have the “Jaguar V8” plastic covers on both sides of the intake manifold. If they’re there and in good shape, I’d recommend “gently” removing them. Once they’re out of the way, take a flashlight and look down inside underneath the intake manifold. Since you have an earlier AJ26 engine management system, you should have a bolt style knock sensor. If you’re unsure, take a quality photo and post it on here. Also, where that new aluminum thermostat housing is now, there “should” be a black 2 pin connector mounted on each side of it. Post those pix as well.

 

Brake switch is the issue with the cruise control for Clarnard (rest of repairs were probably overdue even if expensive). I would also worry secondary tensioners.

Beauty in Idaho needs to replace the O2 sensors, get the battery charged, probably clean the throttle bore and plate, MAF sensor, and run the accelerator up and down (gently) with the engine running to clean the oxidation off the TPS . . . and check on the secondary tensioners, too.

I guess there is nothing really wrong with merging two posts with many of the same problems, but we need to address each as separate problems, ne?

Both vehicles need to be run with a can of fuel system cleaner and new gas . . . cars that sit are a lot like people that sit: fat and sloppy . . .

 

Hey! I sit at my job.

IMHO these are not cars to own unless you have a second car and also do the work yourself. Mine is usually out for two or three weeks on any repair issue that affects driveability. One weekend to figure out what's wrong and order the part. I mail order because no local dealer and wouldn't use dealer anyway because of their prices. One weekend (sometimes two if part doesn't arrive in time) to fix.

 

Normally I’d agree with you Jhartz but, the problem is if the car goes into RP, the CC will be disabled. What I’m trying to find out is if the shop 1) legitimately replaced the knock sensors? 2) did they install the correct bolt style KS’s? I’ve seen an AJ26 with the factory KS still in place but had an AJ27 KS plugged into the harness just laying underneath the intake manifold. The thing is, there’s a rather large OHMS gap from an AJ26 KS and a AJ27 KS. Since there’s no ohms listing for either of them, over the years I’ve recorded what a new oem Jaguar early and late KS should read right out of the bag. I have that information in one of my older phones which isn’t with me at the moment.

 

 

So after driving our 99 Vanden Plas for a few hundred miles and asking other Jag owners who worked on their vehicles we found a reputable wrench in Traverse City about 1 hour from our home. He replaced the brake pedal sensor and we have had cruise control ever since.
This all occurred after threatening to divorce my wife over the car and taking a month to cool off about our first rape ($3,600 +) at a shop that didn’t know what they were doing.
We still don’t have cigar lighters to charge our cellphones. I looked at the fuse panel under rear passenger right side and their is no way to secure a fuse in the designated slot. Any thoughts?
Clarnard

 

The lighter fuse should be fuse no 5 in the trunk. I think it is a 25 amp.