2002 XJ Sport.

Filled up the tank today, started it and had the "restricted performance" message. Scanned codes, and got the p0327.

Can anyone shed some light on this? I did come across a thread that shows how to replace them. But is there anything I can do as far as diagnosing it is the knock sensor, and not something that else causing it. Battery is brand new.

Also, if one is bad, should I just change them both?

 

The diagnosis has been done for you it is the right bank knock sensor. You can check a few things before proceeding with replacing it. Is their water sitting in the valley beneath the intake manifold. If so it will short out the knock sensor. If you have water it could be a valley hose is leaking. Also, look for water staining around the sensor. You can check it for broken or damaged wires. If none of that is present then the sensor has failed.

 

Here is a forum link to a blow-by-blow how to.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-1-2-a-76815/

I did one of mine about 6 months ago, really easy, the hardest part is unclipping the electrical connector at the thermostat house. The forum link suggests using a piece of bent wire to free the sensor from its tapered mooring, but I found a pair of those really long needlenose pliers worked better. Just $4.00 bucks from Harbor Freight.



When I bought my sensor AutoZone had them for $35.00 each so I bought two, but only replaced the one showing the error code. It seems you can't find them for less than $100.00+ now..


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The $29 Duralast SU7012 from Autozone works, it just has a longer wire which can be tucked away.


Edit :

Looks like the price skyrocketed .

 

Yep, so true, I guess someone, somewhere realized that they could charge four times the price and still sell them!


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Sucks about the price increase but oh well. Thanks guys, you all rock. Will go buy the sensors tomorrow. I'll leave bank two alone. But will keep the sensor on hand incase it goes bad as well. I looked at the sensor. No signs of coolant or water getting onto it.

 

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Found this one on ebay for $89.42 with free shipping, no tax. It is a Carquest 71-6795 which cross-references to Jag OEM AJ8 5676, Airtex 5S5619 and Duralast SU7012
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Kn...6/332089518968

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Mice or small squirrels chewed thru the wires in mine. There were some nut shells in the valley pan I vacuumed out, too.

 

Any tips on getting the knock sensor onto the stud? Driver side looks like a breeze to put back on. Right side is tight with that intake runner.

I have the knock sensor mostly on the stud. But the part nearest to the intake runner is being a you know what.

 

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Hmmm, shouldn't be a problem, it was the right side that I replaced and I didn't have any trouble........................are you using those extra-long needle-nosed pliers?

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I am. I'll upload a pic of how much I have it on now. Taking a break from it now before I get too aggressive.

 

Is it that strengthening webbing on the intake manifold that is giving you the pain? True to form it is directly in the way of the knock sensor!

I think I threaded the sensor cable through, but left it unconnected at the front of the engine, then manipulated the sensor onto its post, I think you have to angle it a little to avoid the intake manifold webbing, but it should just slip on.

 

That's it! Yeah it's gonna take some weird angling to get it on. But I should be able to.

 

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Got to thinking.........the old sensor must have come off easily enough, so the new one shouldn't be a problem going back on, I wonder if the replacement sensor is slightly larger in girth from the original? (mine measures 1 1/8") Maybe measure the old and new to compare?

 

I got the knock sensor on. Dumb question. Did you guys route the wire like it was before you removed it? I can, but it rubs too hard on the coolant hose for my taste to make it pass under it.

 

But then again, I don't want the wire getting hot by touching metal or the hose.

 

Well I didn't route the knock sensor like the factory did. Did a hard reset on the car. I don't have a restricted performance message, but the check engine light is still there. P0327 is still stored in the codes.

 

Yes, I routed it the same way it was before I removed it......although I'm not sure that it went under the coolant hose, my suggestion is to route it as near to the original path, but obviously making sure that it isn't interfered with or chafes against anything.

Not sure, but I think you have to drive the car for a while for it to "learn" that it doesn't have the error code anymore.


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Reset the code. Put 20 miles on the car, so far ok. Will keep you guys updated. Thanks everyone.

 

EXCELLENT!

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