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Had the bushing blow out on my new-to-me 2001 XJR, bushings were crumbling so I'm not shocked (no pun intended). Busshing looks like a douible patty hamburger now, jacked up the corner and it looks normal, but when there's weight on it the bushing extends out to about an inch and a half. Probably not the best thing to drive on as my car's weight is being held up by a bit or rubber or urethane.
Just ordered the URO left front top mount with the bushing, shocks seem to pass the bounce test so I'm just doing this one mount right now. Does anyone have the torque specs handy for the plate to shock tower nuts and the nut on top of the shock itself?
Might these worn bushings induce a vibration while driving? Or do I need a wheel balance?
if you're tired of the europoor parts exploding every other year, put genuine rear upper shock bushings in the front for many years of trouble free service.
welsh and moss motors kit is garbage as well do not buy
if you're tired of the europoor parts exploding every other year, put genuine rear upper shock bushings in them
I'm all in favor of using better parts when i have to repair something, can you.point me at a good supplier for the better parts please?
This one will get me back on the road quickly and easily but id rather do a better job when its time to revisit. This is my first one thats blown out on me, but i take it this happens regularly.
I'm all in favor of using better parts when i have to repair something, can you.point me at a good supplier for the better parts please?
This one will get me back on the road quickly and easily but id rather do a better job when its time to revisit. This is my first one thats blown out on me, but i take it this happens regularly.
Thanks.
with the URO and other whitebox brands yes. factory assembled last a lot longer but never in stock and like 400 dollars lol.
Do not overtighten the shock bolt. I think the torque spec is 25 ft lbs, but since you have to hold the top of the bolt while you tighten the nut, it’s not possible to get a torque wrench on the nut. No matter, just don’t tighten it very tight. I don’t recall the torque specs of the other bolts, but just get them snugged nice and tight. But again, do NOT over tighten the nut on top of the shock. Snug is tight enough. Over tightening the nut will ruin the bushing while you’re backing it out of the garage!
You can torque the top nut with crowsfoot if you want to get serious, but otherwise a snug up with a normal wrench is fine. I used Mahle, they seem fine.
I am not familiar with the Mahle brand. If I am not mistaken, the stock bushing was part of the
shock mounting plate. It is probably not a good idea to use double bushings or maybe the photo
is showing the expansion of a single one to the point it looks as two.
I am not familiar with the Mahle brand. If I am not mistaken, the stock bushing was part of the
shock mounting plate. It is probably not a good idea to use double bushings or maybe the photo
is showing the expansion of a single one to the point it looks as two.
Mahle does mostly german cars. Like many OE suppliers, some of their stuff is as original, while some is not so great.
Quick correction, the brand I actually used was Meyle.
I am not familiar with the Mahle brand. If I am not mistaken, the stock bushing was part of the
shock mounting plate. It is probably not a good idea to use double bushings or maybe the photo
is showing the expansion of a single one to the point it looks as two.
Photo is the blown out bushing. Definitely not right. Ordered a pair of the Uros so both sides are done at the same time. I'll monitor and if they start bteakinh down in a year or do ill try the otber brand maybe.
Got both new bushings and plates in this afternoon, took about 90 minutes total. Worked great, noise is gone, ride is back to being nice and cornering is great.
Pic of the bad one as it came out. Underneath on the shock tower was a huge pile of orange powder from the disintegrated bushing...vaccuumed everything up and all is well.