Hi and thank you for the response. I have changed two engines before. One in my Explorer Sport and one in a Explorer. There was a video on the web, i think it was from Robinson Automotive and he did nearly a full video on how to do it from start to finish. While he was doing the actual engine replacement he would give tips here and there about how to reach certain bolts and nuts and what to watch out for etc. He mentioned that you could leave the a/c system intact just set it aside and so on. I guess i got spoiled by that. It really made changing the engines a cinch. I am anxious to get started on the XJ8 and I was just wondering if such a video or picture history exists for the Jag. The Jag engine removal instructions do look pretty straightforward. I got the car for a song and a dance and had allotted hobby money for repairs etc. So i am watching expenses and trying to keep expenses to overtime (hobby) money. Thanks to wrecking yards this is working out very well for me. I got front seats and rear bench, an engine, rear driver window, head liner, radio antenna, cigarette lighter parts, armrest w/cup holder, door speakers, door handles with cables, wood steering wheel, and so on and i am still ok budget wise. I think the car is really going to be nice when i get done. I again thank you for your offer and i may take you up on it after i get the engine in and see if that lingering electrical issue gets the better of me. I found the short from the sun visor and it looks like it may have taken out the BPM. Replaced those wires and BPM. Replaced a few burned out lamps too. Electrically everything else seems sound now save for that one problem. I think i will find it too, time will tell. From the other cars i have worked on the Jag seems surprisingly straightforward so far.

 

Not sure it has been documented with pictures- maybe you could be the first? It's about as easy to remove the transmission with the engine as without, so do so and check the A drum while the trans is out. Label EVERY connection on both sides, makes reinstallation waaay easier.

Remove hood (bonnet)

I usually work my way from the intake down- remove intake tube, remove radiator and fans, then disconnect the wiring harness (I think you can just disconnect the big main connector next to the firewall and leave the wires connected to the engine?) next undo the motor mount bolts.

Next, I go after any remaining coolant hoses and remove the reservoir. Then the A/C hoses that are in the way. I have removed the engine with and without the manifold/throttle body- either way is about the same difficulty.

Undo power steering hoses from the resvoir and rack and any other misc connections I have forgotten to mention (ground strap attached to the bell housing for instance) undo transmission and o2 sensor connectors.

Next, I lift the car and undo the exhaust (just the cats and center muffler) support the transmission and remove the transmission mount cross member and driveshaft bolts (only one side, I usually leave the rubber jurid coupling connected to the driveshaft)

Then connect the cherry picker to the front holes and brackets in the back (I do not have the actual factory brackets, so I have used just a bolt and washer with the cherry picker chain- use the right tools, it will work better) and bring the engine and trans over the nose.

You will need to move the engine and tranny slowly forward at a pretty steep angle (watch the cross memeber clearance), then straighten it out as you pull it over the front of the car.

I may have forgotten some points or connections, just remember to check every few inches to make sure nothing is catching.

Upon installation of an AJ26 motor I will put a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder in to avoid bore wash symptoms. Do not attempt to start it without everything back in place- connections, etc. I have (excitedly) cranked a couple over before connecting the trans cooler lines.....it was messy.

I usually take a day to remove and a day to replace- that way I am not in a hurry and can be sure that I do not miss any hoses/connections. Buy a coolant pressure tester if you do not have one- it is much better to find a leak before you button everything up than AFTER.

Heck- after you swap the engine, you might just rebuild the old one and look for a bargain to drop it into! Might I suggest an early XK8? They make a great pair.

 

Super response, and i had been wondering if i should look at the transmission while i was this close. The engine is a good idea too. I'll take the pictures and put that together some how. Thank you very much for your time, Jerry.

 

Haven't had much time to devote to XJ8 but i got the engine/transmission out Sunday. It was very straightforward and with the advice given here and following the removal procedures - there were no problems at all. I started out taking pictures - but i found that to actually get in the way of working. The removal instructions if followed carefully are all you need. I would say that before you start engine removal spray PBBlaster on the exhaust bolts. Two of mine broke off some other bolts were hard to get off. I couldn't get the center muffler off either but my jack still reached the back of the transmission. You also might want to take a picture or two of the hose routings. I also removed the intake manifold to insure no interference with the lifting chains. Next task is to read up on how to check for transmission "A drum" damage.

 

A-drum removal is very straightforward:

Remove the transmission from the engine, and stand it upright (figure out how to keep it upright)

1. remove torque converter (I would replace the seal, it's right there)
2. remove the brown bolts, leaveing the blonde bolts in place
3. tap the bellhousing and pull it up and off
4. pull the shaft that is sticking out straight up and out. The A-drum is in this grouping.

After this, you are removing the circlips and clutch packs to get to the A-drum, look at the pics in this thread (#6):
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...d-again-61537/

The damage should be easy to spot. remove the A-drum clutch piston (the disk held in place by a thick circlip in the center) and inspect it- I would have never looked had it not been for a non-damaged A-drum, but I will check it going forward. Check at each point for failed or mising o-rings.

Let me know if you need any O-rings or random parts as I have some from a trans I bought for parts.

 

Oh, and the exhaust studs tend to snap as they use self-locking nuts- the replacements can be had at any O'Riellys or Autozone. I used heat and vise grips to remove the old ones.

 

A few of the exhaust flange bolts ALWAYS break off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I keep the studs and nuts in stock and the Cataverters can be clamped in a vise to extract the broken studs with heat and/or drill bits. I have never had one defeat me yet!!!!

bob gauff

 

Finally got a chance to get back to work on the car. I separated the transmission from the engine and first checked the fluid color, pan magnets, and a-drum for damage. The fluid looked dark but did not have any kind of burning smell. The pan magnets had some fine deposits on them but did not look any worse than just about all pictures you see on the web. When i reassemble i will replace the t27 bolts with t40 and replace the o-rings on the filler bolt and drain bolt. If i read the filter date correctly, it was dated for sometime in 06 or 07 as i recall. The drum looked new, no damage at all. The drum had the "radial stiffening swayes in later A-clutch drum" as depicted in the picture shown for that caption you find on the web. From this i conclude that my transmission should be in pretty good shape. All i have to do is not mess anything up reassembling it.

Question
A) Is there anything else that i should check while i have this out and apart?

B) Please let me know if i missed anything but I would think that at a minimum i should replace the following before continuing on.
1) two rectangular o rings on the a-drum shaft,
2) the o-ring at the hub of the a-drum shaft,
3) transmission input seal,
4) bell housing gasket,
5) transmission pan gasket,
6) transmission filter and o-ring,
7) o-rings on filler and drain plug
8) two o-rings on circular transmission electrical connector.
9) transmission breather (check ?)

Thanks, Jerry.

 

I had not been able to work on car for a while but am back at it. Got everything put back in and yesterday it started it up. Car runs just fine. Backed a bit down the driveway and drove it back up to garage. I am now picking leaves out of the blower motor. Don't let anyone tell you this is fun. I also found cold solder/broken solder joints on abs circuit board as described in the "abs repair" posts. Put that back in the morning. Have to replace a few instrument panel lights too. I'll see where i am with error codes and such when i put everything back together. I still have center console and seats to put back in. Headliner was a disaster.

 

I put the repaired abs module back into car, center console, replaced a few dash lights, new windshield washer motor and put the seats in. All errors have disappeared from display window and car starts and runs perfectly. (OBDII is clear except for IM readiness) I have no warning chimes so into the steering column to see if speaker or wiring is bad. I also have to replace driver side front wheel bearing, lug nuts and tires. Then off for registration/inspection and driving.

Has anyone pulled the hub to replace the wheel bearing? The real question is ... is this a reasonably "diy" job? I've seen some warnings about the suspension spring - got my attention. I feel pretty confident about doing the job just interested in the thoughts of someone who has done this before.

Thanks, Jerry.

 

I took the hubs to Jagtech and they pressed in the new bearings. I installed the hub, replaced end links, brakes, steering column speaker, and shocks today. Car still does not have any errors and i drove it a short distance around the neighborhood. Runs just great. Still have some cosmetic work to do but should be able to get the car inspected now.

To do:
Replace headliner again. Should have used better spray adhesive.
Wire in driver side marker light. Passenger side had plug already wired.
Glue in 3rd brake light.
Figure out why the door locks will lock with car on and moving forward but will not unlock from inside by pressing the unlock button. In fact you have to grab the stem that sticks up from the door panel and hold that up to get out of the car. And i cannot unlock door with key.

 

Drove car to get vehicle inspection, it sailed right through. Looks like i just have 3 or 4 more issues and i should be complete.

Thanks Jerry.

 

Since getting registration/plates i have put over 600 miles on the car. Not a single problem. Drives like a dream and best of all my wife loves the car. Boy i needed that since fixing the car went over schedule and over budget. Haven't had this much fun since fixing the 1976 450SL Mercedes. Talking about over schedule and budget. : )
I'll get around to the other thing that need a little TLC after a bit. Just enjoying the car for now.
Many thanks again to all those who have posted what they learned and those who have answered my questions that have helped me get to this point. This forum is really a great resource.
Jerry