Looking for advice/thoughts on technical direction from here.
Hello. I have a question concerning the current state of my 1998 XJ8 with 141,000 miles. Would like your thoughts on this.
1) I have been working on this car now for almost 4 weeks resolving various issues. Today I removed the valve cover on the driver side and saw the first gen tensioner. It does not look cracked and the chain tension is very tight. I removed the passenger side valve cover and the exhaust cam chain was broken. The bottom of the tensioner had detached and was trapped between the sprocket, chain, and metal casting. I removed the cap nuts and lifted up the exhaust cam, removed the trapped material and broken chain. With the motor now free to turn - I cranked the engine around to see if there was any additional damage that i could find. I cranked through several cycles and stopped where the flats on the camshafts would let a mechanics ruler lay flat across them and the number one cylinder was at the top. I had to turn the camshaft with the broken chain by hand and both sides lined up perfectly. I don't know if this is a valid test but I then checked for compression. On the driver side from front of car to back the numbers were 3, 2, 140, 1 and on the passenger side front to back were 130, 155, 150, and 155. I put a teaspoon of oil in each spark plug hole and the new readings were driver side front to back 4, 3, 100, 3 and passenger side 155, 165, 165, 160. I turned the motor with the starter and all spark plugs were removed. I set my compressor to 30 lbs and put the hose on my spark plug connector. I put this in cylinder 1 on driver side (both cams looked like they were off the buckets so valves should be all the way up). I could hear the air coming out the throttle plate and when a paper towel is placed over the butterfly you can see it being blown around. I repeated these steps on the next cylinder going towards the back and same thing just the air at the butterfly was not as pronounced.
Does this sound like the kind of thing that can be repaired or better to just replace the engine? I don't know enough to know if this kind of damage could just be the beginning of many more serious problems or if it will require removal of the head to make the best determination. I am interested in any thoughts anyone with more experience has with this kind of thing. Thank you in advance, Jerry.
One more thought. When i bought the car the lady said that she was driving home and she heard a knocking noise and pointed to the passenger side valve cover. She said that she saw the message on the display saying that it was low on oil so she picked some up and came home and put the oil in. She said that the car had been running very well and the engine was very strong. At some point in time she said the car got hot and her dad had put a water pump and thermostat in it. The heater also does not work. I was never able to tie any of this to a problem/resolution but this is the information she gave me. When i came to pick up the car i was told that it had been sitting for 6 to 8 months.
1) I have been working on this car now for almost 4 weeks resolving various issues. Today I removed the valve cover on the driver side and saw the first gen tensioner. It does not look cracked and the chain tension is very tight. I removed the passenger side valve cover and the exhaust cam chain was broken. The bottom of the tensioner had detached and was trapped between the sprocket, chain, and metal casting. I removed the cap nuts and lifted up the exhaust cam, removed the trapped material and broken chain. With the motor now free to turn - I cranked the engine around to see if there was any additional damage that i could find. I cranked through several cycles and stopped where the flats on the camshafts would let a mechanics ruler lay flat across them and the number one cylinder was at the top. I had to turn the camshaft with the broken chain by hand and both sides lined up perfectly. I don't know if this is a valid test but I then checked for compression. On the driver side from front of car to back the numbers were 3, 2, 140, 1 and on the passenger side front to back were 130, 155, 150, and 155. I put a teaspoon of oil in each spark plug hole and the new readings were driver side front to back 4, 3, 100, 3 and passenger side 155, 165, 165, 160. I turned the motor with the starter and all spark plugs were removed. I set my compressor to 30 lbs and put the hose on my spark plug connector. I put this in cylinder 1 on driver side (both cams looked like they were off the buckets so valves should be all the way up). I could hear the air coming out the throttle plate and when a paper towel is placed over the butterfly you can see it being blown around. I repeated these steps on the next cylinder going towards the back and same thing just the air at the butterfly was not as pronounced.
Does this sound like the kind of thing that can be repaired or better to just replace the engine? I don't know enough to know if this kind of damage could just be the beginning of many more serious problems or if it will require removal of the head to make the best determination. I am interested in any thoughts anyone with more experience has with this kind of thing. Thank you in advance, Jerry.
One more thought. When i bought the car the lady said that she was driving home and she heard a knocking noise and pointed to the passenger side valve cover. She said that she saw the message on the display saying that it was low on oil so she picked some up and came home and put the oil in. She said that the car had been running very well and the engine was very strong. At some point in time she said the car got hot and her dad had put a water pump and thermostat in it. The heater also does not work. I was never able to tie any of this to a problem/resolution but this is the information she gave me. When i came to pick up the car i was told that it had been sitting for 6 to 8 months.
Rather than aligning the cam flats align the cams at the point that none of the cam lobes are depressing valves. That will be the place to apply an external air pressure. Note if any valve disks do not seem to return to the tops of the buckets.
Heads are a big job but less than an engine replacement.
Heads are a big job but less than an engine replacement.
Based on the information you provided, it certainly appears you have bent valves.
Since it appear there may be other issues with the engine, it may be easier and less expensive in the long term to find a used engine that is in good condition. You can then replace the primary and secondary timing chains, guides and tensioners with uprated parts prior to installing it into the vehicle.
Since it appear there may be other issues with the engine, it may be easier and less expensive in the long term to find a used engine that is in good condition. You can then replace the primary and secondary timing chains, guides and tensioners with uprated parts prior to installing it into the vehicle.
You can just pull the damaged head and take it to a machine shop for examination???
It is a bunch of work but might be more cost effective. Cheaper in parts but more labor. Since you are doing the labor already it might work out??
You will just have to do the math??? Repaired head and timing components or complete used engine???
bob gauff
It is a bunch of work but might be more cost effective. Cheaper in parts but more labor. Since you are doing the labor already it might work out??
You will just have to do the math??? Repaired head and timing components or complete used engine???
bob gauff
Thanks to all for your assistance. Decided to replace motor.
Now trying to determine which engine to buy. Hope to find the best one that will go in with the least modification. Will check that engine for latest tensioners - etc and replace as necessary.
Now trying to determine which engine to buy. Hope to find the best one that will go in with the least modification. Will check that engine for latest tensioners - etc and replace as necessary.
Thank Bob, going to look for an engine today. Changed a Ford Explorer engine and got into the swap parts thing. I think this time i am going for the direct swap option. Jerry
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Found an engine - in decent shape i think. 1998 XJ8, 98,000 miles. Pick it up tomorrow morning. Check new engine for usual suspects then download engine removal and get busy. If this rain ever lets up that is.
Be certain to pay attention to the sump as the AJ28 is slightly different from the AJ26 and AJ27 used in the XJ8.
He bought a 1998 XJ8 engine, which should be a AJ26, same as the one being replaced.
Hello,
Can someone tell me how much work i have to look forward to ... i did not notice this until i am about to unload the engine here at the house. The engine i got has a cable coming out of the windshield side of the valve cover on both sides of the engine. My engine does not. On the front side just down from the valve cover there is a circular device on both heads. My engine does have this device.
Thanks in advance, Jerry.
Can someone tell me how much work i have to look forward to ... i did not notice this until i am about to unload the engine here at the house. The engine i got has a cable coming out of the windshield side of the valve cover on both sides of the engine. My engine does not. On the front side just down from the valve cover there is a circular device on both heads. My engine does have this device.
Thanks in advance, Jerry.
While the engine is out, it is an excellent time to change heater hoses. I always replace the engine mounts too. Coventry West sells all the stuff and is knowledgeable out it.
A shop will charge about 20 hours of labor to do the swap if that gives you an idea of the amount of work ahead. Good luck!
A shop will charge about 20 hours of labor to do the swap if that gives you an idea of the amount of work ahead. Good luck!
The tool used to lock the crankshaft is also different for the AJ28.
Thanks everyone for the tips and info! The 20 hours ... whew i'll be busy. I've got the engine on the engine stand and i checked the tensioners. They are the metal upgraded ones. The camshaft cavity is not the redish color you see a lot but looks more like just metal. Lucked out here... Maybe previous owner took decent care of engine. I will change the hoses, thermostat, flush out the heater core, check operation of aux pump and valve unit, clean all grounds in engine area and so on with engine out. I have resolved all other electrical problems save one ... turning the ignition switch to start doesn't spin the engine. I will start hunting that down as soon as rain stops. Found a lot of information on diagnosing this on the forum. I think i am close, the "P" lights up with key in and on, the gearshift beeps if you move it without the key in, the gear shift inhibitor unlocks when you put your foot on the brake with the key in run position, i have 12v at the relay all the time, i am just missing the start voltage. If i put 12v on the solenoid the engine will spin. 33.9 ohms for exciter resistance. A few more checks and should find this problem. With all electrical issues out the way i will continue with engine swap. Really looking forward to the day she starts! Thanks again for all the help.
Rain . . . ? Texas . . . ? Thought ya'll were in the middle of a thousand year drouth. Oh, . . . that was last year.
CLIMATE CHANGE!
Wish Al would make more public comments on such . . . obviously . . . man-made disasters.
CLIMATE CHANGE!
Wish Al would make more public comments on such . . . obviously . . . man-made disasters.
The rain has NOT stopped for more than a day since MARCH.
I have holes in my house roof from the solid kind of rain (hail the size of my fist through the shingles AND plywood).
A tornado nearby must have thrown the frozen rain a few miles and destroyed one of my Jaguars. The 2001 XJ8 has $7000 worth of damage so it is TOTALED!!!!!!!!!!
I got the 1999 XJ8 into my shop after only a few minutes of hail and it only has $2000 damage. My Chevy truck is totaled and needs a windscreen.
My shop roof (steel R panels) needs a new roof at $12,000.
Insurance is probably NOT happy but they are paying for it all.
bob gauff
I have holes in my house roof from the solid kind of rain (hail the size of my fist through the shingles AND plywood).
A tornado nearby must have thrown the frozen rain a few miles and destroyed one of my Jaguars. The 2001 XJ8 has $7000 worth of damage so it is TOTALED!!!!!!!!!!
I got the 1999 XJ8 into my shop after only a few minutes of hail and it only has $2000 damage. My Chevy truck is totaled and needs a windscreen.
My shop roof (steel R panels) needs a new roof at $12,000.
Insurance is probably NOT happy but they are paying for it all.
bob gauff
Last edited by motorcarman; May 26, 2015 at 07:58 AM.
I was searching for experiences that others had while changing out an engine on the XJ8 but have been unable to find anything. I have searched many times using various combinations of engine removal, replacement, swap and so on. I have even tried using google and yahoo. I have the shop manual pdf - is it that the manual is so effective no further explaining is necessary or i need a different search argument? Thanks in advance if anyone has had better luck than i have.
Hi Jt, I have done it a few times and can answer most of your questions (as will most of the folks here) what exactly do you want to know?
Most things can be done with the right amount of money, so it is helpful if you conmmunicate wherther this is being done on a budget, or if you have unlimited funds- I tend to work on a *tight* budget, so I reuse parts and rebuild whenever it is most cost effective. Feel free to PM me with questions as well, I will do my best to reply in a timely manner.
Most things can be done with the right amount of money, so it is helpful if you conmmunicate wherther this is being done on a budget, or if you have unlimited funds- I tend to work on a *tight* budget, so I reuse parts and rebuild whenever it is most cost effective. Feel free to PM me with questions as well, I will do my best to reply in a timely manner.









