Some advice for those we have not checked out their motor mounts ever. My 2002 VDP hit the 75k mark and I started to notice a small vibration. I then went in for an oil change and my mechanic pulls out my oil filter to see some pretty impressive dents in it..almost cracked it! We are friends and he looked around and saw my right motor mount was coming apart. Bought both on eBay for 179.99 and had them installed for 3 hours labor 195.00. No more vibration. The left motor mount basically was coming apart on the top half. And it also turns out that the whole screw on the bottom of the left motor mount was loose and could slide some back and forth. I am no expert and am not sure if this damage was due to the past owner or just normal wear or tear, but before you go breaking your oil filter and seizing your engine maybe take a look at your motor mounts and see how they are doing! Definitely was not expecting that to be the issue. Forgot to mention that after the repair my ride is nice and smooth again!

 

Is this a do-it-yourself job? I took a look in the JTIS for 2001 XJ8 and did not see any reference to the motor mounts anywhere. Maybe someone who has done this can comment on how tough a job it is.

 

@Boomer,

Jack the front up and axle stand the car on both front mounts. Look for the two bungs in the front subframe (use a creeper to slide under the car looking up at the front subframe) you'll see the bungs clearly.
Pry them out with a flatheaded screwdriver. Use long 1/2" extension t6? torx and ratchet to undo the lower bolts holding the mounts to the subframe.
Next you need to undo the top nuts on the engine mounts - At this point it's a case of removing what you need to get get at them for clearance - a short spanner works or crowsfoot.
From below use a trolley jack and brace made of wood to lift the engine up enough to wiggle the old mounts out, you might have to let the radiator bolts go at the top so it can slide up a wee bit. Be careful not to jack fast and burst something. Don't crush the sump pan, or catch the power steering lines. You only need maybe two inches clearance.
Reverse order for installing new mounts.

My symptoms where a clonk/knock on the front passenger side. Replaced the front end shock bushes, used the long bar (ala Mercedes technique) to see if any other movement in the front end suspension, it was still there.

Only when I had the engine out did I see how knackered they were. The lower bolts had stretched, so a low speed bump made the engine lift off the subframe entirely on both sides, clonk. Not good!

 

Sean -
Just so I don't get confused by the Queen's English, which piece(s) or locations are the "front mounts" you refer to? Is a "trolley jack" what we here would call a "scissors jack"? Thanks!

 

The front mounts are the small box sections welded to the bodyshell, there's 4. Two front, two rear. They have rubber boots inserted to keep muck out. They're to be used when on a ramp, or to place the bodyshell on stands. Looking side on to the car, kneel down and you'll see them.
The trolley jack is what it is! I guess it's what you'd call a scissor jack. I will stress that you have to place the car on stands if working underneath, period.

Picture shows front subframe and the engine mounts - these are what you're after replacing. The light blue jack underneath is the "trolley jack"!

 

sean definitely knows his stuff! great replies! On my end I had the same symptoms as him including the battered oil filter. But I am not mechanically inclined to took it to my mechanic.

 

Sean, thanks so much!
It's hard to tell from the JTIS just how these cars go together. In your picture it looks like the subframe is held to the rest of the car by the four studs (?) just over the spring towers? Is there rubber in there somewhere? (presumably, must be) At the back of the arms of the subframe, it appears there are also two rubber bushings. These mount to the frame as well? Are these subframe rubber parts likely to need replacing?

 

Yes the front sub is bolted to the chassis legs with long bolts. You can see the front sub mounts are in place. Personally think these don't need replacement, or the rear bushes. They both bolt to the bodyshell and have very little movement, certainly nowhere near the movement of suspension.
Here's a link to the front subframe mounts and what they look like, you can also find the rear sub bushes on this site.
http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms...%20VEE%20MOUNT

 

Reviving an old thread .

Sean could I place the jack stands on the front of the subframe by the mounting area of the sway bar? Too I have read that you need to disconnect the steering shaft(maybe for us with the steering on the left?).

I'm planning on doing this tomorrow or Saturday. You think two hours is enough time with hand tools?

Thank you

Chris

 

2002 X308 base VP 156K miles trying to illuminate the dreaded engine clunk. Would appreciate any advice from the forums valuable experience. Occurs only when going over speed bumps etc at low speed ( Side to side motion)

Here’s what I have done so far:
Replaced two main motor mounts ( hydraulic)
Replaced both upper shock mounts complete with new bushings
Replaced both front lower shock bushings

This did eliminate a lot of the vibration and has resulted in a much smoother ride however, the dreaded engine clock when going over speed bumps etc. still exist.

Any suggestions? Maybe swaybar bushings or control arm problems? Your assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

 

Sure it's the engine ? Typically the upper ball joints are the first main front suspension part to go -- and typically its the right one as it gets all the road crap. OEM are available -- They clunk when bad. I did both of mine.

With the age of the cars -- many of the boots will have cracks. On both of my 02's -- have small cracks on the tie rods -- the joints are fine but I will replace if I notice anything or have to do anything else that requires an alignment. Same with the lowers on the car with 70K.

 

Thank you Yeldogt ! I bet you are correct. I did have two busted motor mounts so was just assuming the knocking was associated with that. I will check the boots, tie rods ( both upper and lower) and the joints to see if we can identify the problem. Thanks again for your reply.