My Jag Delima(s)
#1
11-20-2017, 04:33 PM
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Jag Delima(s)
I found a great deal on a 1998 Jag XJ8 a couple of years back... Now it sits in my driveway useless. Confused & frustrated..
1st issue was the taillights did not work, turns out after lots of ts and 1 attempt at changing a body processor module (behind glovebox) then swapping it back, They work... but only if / when the rear fog light switch is on... OK,
Next issue, someone else drove it while we were out of town and suddenlt the transmission is not cooperating.... gearbox fault... research and finally a decent deal via ebay & we are back on the road... that trip to Kentucky for New Years started with a coolant low light... it relly didn't seem to be, and never ran hot. Made it home and thi spring I changed the coolant, light continues every so often... topped off and all seemed well... then....
This summer I left the drivers window down during a thunderstorm, next day or two, next time I drove it after it quit raining the windows went nuts, lowered themselves without touching anything, drove thru rain to a parking garage, windows went up,,, couple hours later, on way home, driver window went down without touching anything... drove home thru rain, at home it went up then a few days later drivers side controls do NOTHING... While troubleshooting this and with vehicle running my neighbor notes a radiator leak... after much research and self repair attempts I get an old school local radiator repair guy to fix the leak... I think.
Normally I have had the famous rad fan run on after every trip... have had to charge battery semi-regularly after car sat for several days.
Now that the radiator leak may be fixed, I start the car and fans do not come on... I hook up scan tool and get link error. I have an acquaintence checking various items and I forget that scan tool is still connected... couple hrs later, no joy re: fans and when I try to start the car nothing... then see gearbox fault msg, failsafe mode msg, wron part fitted msg & driver door not closed msg... Charge battery and reset with no change... take battery to 2 shops where both say battery is good.
I have pulled the drivers side windo switches and the drivers door module, reinstalled drivers door module but not door switch, but I did this AFTER no start (no crank) and fault message. still get drivers door open when door is closed. Lost. Frustrated & broke. Ideas???
1st issue was the taillights did not work, turns out after lots of ts and 1 attempt at changing a body processor module (behind glovebox) then swapping it back, They work... but only if / when the rear fog light switch is on... OK,
Next issue, someone else drove it while we were out of town and suddenlt the transmission is not cooperating.... gearbox fault... research and finally a decent deal via ebay & we are back on the road... that trip to Kentucky for New Years started with a coolant low light... it relly didn't seem to be, and never ran hot. Made it home and thi spring I changed the coolant, light continues every so often... topped off and all seemed well... then....
This summer I left the drivers window down during a thunderstorm, next day or two, next time I drove it after it quit raining the windows went nuts, lowered themselves without touching anything, drove thru rain to a parking garage, windows went up,,, couple hours later, on way home, driver window went down without touching anything... drove home thru rain, at home it went up then a few days later drivers side controls do NOTHING... While troubleshooting this and with vehicle running my neighbor notes a radiator leak... after much research and self repair attempts I get an old school local radiator repair guy to fix the leak... I think.
Normally I have had the famous rad fan run on after every trip... have had to charge battery semi-regularly after car sat for several days.
Now that the radiator leak may be fixed, I start the car and fans do not come on... I hook up scan tool and get link error. I have an acquaintence checking various items and I forget that scan tool is still connected... couple hrs later, no joy re: fans and when I try to start the car nothing... then see gearbox fault msg, failsafe mode msg, wron part fitted msg & driver door not closed msg... Charge battery and reset with no change... take battery to 2 shops where both say battery is good.
I have pulled the drivers side windo switches and the drivers door module, reinstalled drivers door module but not door switch, but I did this AFTER no start (no crank) and fault message. still get drivers door open when door is closed. Lost. Frustrated & broke. Ideas???
#2
11-20-2017, 05:45 PM
Veteran Member
......have had to charge battery semi-regularly after car sat for several days....... then see gearbox fault msg, failsafe mode msg, wron part fitted msg & driver door not closed msg... Charge battery and reset with no change... take battery to 2 shops where both say battery is good
But, the most obvious is the battery, all those symptoms are typical x308 symptoms for a bad battery, maybe still having voltage, but not able to handle a load.
Change that one first, do a hard reset, then come back on the other issues.
#3
11-20-2017, 06:14 PM
Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Trying to escape Central Florida
Posts: 4,635
Received 1,768 Likes
on
1,302 Posts
Welcome Captain-Bob, please introduce yourself here and tell us about your Jag... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...-intro-must-5/
As for your ship, she sounds like it came in and you were at the airport...lol, ...jk amigo.
A very common issue with Jags (or other saloons) if left to sit are electrical ghosts creeping in. Grounds are ultra important and corrosion can be a nominal enemy on batteries left to go too low. Especially on systems as intricate as these saloons. If you have any corrosion on either of your cables, replace it, you won't win that war and it will deprive your system of operating properly. To help prevent that case I highly suggest (as many others here do) a Battery Tender of some sort. You will find the tender chases away many a ghost. Mine gets plugged in if it is going to sit for more than a week.
Rain is not a friend of any electronics, especially in the vehicle, your already dealing with humidity in the Panhandle. It gets on the contacts and creates/prevents activations of the switches. It can also short out controls/switches indiscriminately. A hair dryer should be used to try to dry off the switches before attempting any activations. Apparently a little too late for that advice, but not definitively. Though for the door switch, put a hair dryer on the post latch area to hopefully get that moisture out of that contact...you can try the other areas to see.
For the radiator fans, have you check the connections, that they are securely put together? Try metering your relay and connections when the vehicle gets up to temperature to activate.
Lets start with this much, I'm quite sure there will be more members chiming in. But in the meantime you'll want to put this in your favorites... JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
....reference this which is at the top of this forum... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...k-links-20090/ ...and the other stickied threads to assist repairs and TSB's.
Hey Eric, you responded while I was writing I see, so Capt Bob can see the commonality of our responses for reference.
As for your ship, she sounds like it came in and you were at the airport...lol, ...jk amigo.
A very common issue with Jags (or other saloons) if left to sit are electrical ghosts creeping in. Grounds are ultra important and corrosion can be a nominal enemy on batteries left to go too low. Especially on systems as intricate as these saloons. If you have any corrosion on either of your cables, replace it, you won't win that war and it will deprive your system of operating properly. To help prevent that case I highly suggest (as many others here do) a Battery Tender of some sort. You will find the tender chases away many a ghost. Mine gets plugged in if it is going to sit for more than a week.
Rain is not a friend of any electronics, especially in the vehicle, your already dealing with humidity in the Panhandle. It gets on the contacts and creates/prevents activations of the switches. It can also short out controls/switches indiscriminately. A hair dryer should be used to try to dry off the switches before attempting any activations. Apparently a little too late for that advice, but not definitively. Though for the door switch, put a hair dryer on the post latch area to hopefully get that moisture out of that contact...you can try the other areas to see.
For the radiator fans, have you check the connections, that they are securely put together? Try metering your relay and connections when the vehicle gets up to temperature to activate.
Lets start with this much, I'm quite sure there will be more members chiming in. But in the meantime you'll want to put this in your favorites... JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
....reference this which is at the top of this forum... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...k-links-20090/ ...and the other stickied threads to assist repairs and TSB's.
Hey Eric, you responded while I was writing I see, so Capt Bob can see the commonality of our responses for reference.
The following users liked this post:
ericjansen (11-20-2017)
#4
11-20-2017, 09:45 PM
Senior Member
I found a great deal on a 1998 Jag XJ8 a couple of years back... Now it sits in my driveway useless. Confused & frustrated..
1st issue was the taillights did not work, turns out after lots of ts and 1 attempt at changing a body processor module (behind glovebox) then swapping it back, They work... but only if / when the rear fog light switch is on... OK,Check the SLCM in the car. This was prob your problem all along.
Next issue, someone else drove it while we were out of town and suddenlt the transmission is not cooperating.... gearbox fault... research and finally a decent deal via ebay & we are back on the road... These cars don’t SIT very well. This sounds like a battery issue that can be solved by a good charge. that trip to Kentucky for New Years started with a coolant low light... it relly didn't seem to be, and never ran hot. Made it home and thi spring I changed the coolant, light continues every so often... topped off and all seemed well... then....
This summer I left the drivers window down during a thunderstorm, next day or two, next time I drove it after it quit raining the windows went nuts, lowered themselves without touching anything, drove thru rain to a parking garage, windows went up,,, couple hours later, on way home, driver window went down without touching anything... drove home thru rain, at home it went up then a few days later drivers side controls do NOTHING... This should be solved by a hard reset. If not, gets some ‘electrical contact spray’ and spray it into the buttons. This should correct the water or rust that may have formed inside the window switches. While troubleshooting this and with vehicle running my neighbor notes a radiator leak... after much research and self repair attempts I get an old school local radiator repair guy to fix the leak... I think.
Normally I have had the famous rad fan run on after every trip... have had to charge battery semi-regularly after car sat for several days. This again goes back to a battery issue when the car sits, but you may have found your problem. Check the leads/wires going to the fan. Make sure they are not cracked or frayed. If you had a coolant leak, and they got coolant on them, they can degrade quickly. Check and see if they are rubbing on anything. Check the leads going to the coolest sensor. This could be a wire issue, which would cause the power drain, or a sensor issue, which could cause the fan not to come. Or both.
Now that the radiator leak may be fixed, I start the car and fans do not come on... I hook up scan tool and get link error. I have an acquaintence checking various items and I forget that scan tool is still connected... couple hrs later, no joy re: fans and when I try to start the car nothing... then see gearbox fault msg, failsafe mode msg, wron part fitted msg & driver door not closed msg... Charge battery and reset with no change... take battery to 2 shops where both say battery is good. Batterynissue, the hard reset should clear this. bUT, this will only work with a fully charged battery.
I have pulled the drivers side windo switches and the drivers door module, reinstalled drivers door module but not door switch, but I did this AFTER no start (no crank) and fault message. still get drivers door open when door is closed. Lost. Frustrated & broke. Ideas???
1st issue was the taillights did not work, turns out after lots of ts and 1 attempt at changing a body processor module (behind glovebox) then swapping it back, They work... but only if / when the rear fog light switch is on... OK,Check the SLCM in the car. This was prob your problem all along.
Next issue, someone else drove it while we were out of town and suddenlt the transmission is not cooperating.... gearbox fault... research and finally a decent deal via ebay & we are back on the road... These cars don’t SIT very well. This sounds like a battery issue that can be solved by a good charge. that trip to Kentucky for New Years started with a coolant low light... it relly didn't seem to be, and never ran hot. Made it home and thi spring I changed the coolant, light continues every so often... topped off and all seemed well... then....
This summer I left the drivers window down during a thunderstorm, next day or two, next time I drove it after it quit raining the windows went nuts, lowered themselves without touching anything, drove thru rain to a parking garage, windows went up,,, couple hours later, on way home, driver window went down without touching anything... drove home thru rain, at home it went up then a few days later drivers side controls do NOTHING... This should be solved by a hard reset. If not, gets some ‘electrical contact spray’ and spray it into the buttons. This should correct the water or rust that may have formed inside the window switches. While troubleshooting this and with vehicle running my neighbor notes a radiator leak... after much research and self repair attempts I get an old school local radiator repair guy to fix the leak... I think.
Normally I have had the famous rad fan run on after every trip... have had to charge battery semi-regularly after car sat for several days. This again goes back to a battery issue when the car sits, but you may have found your problem. Check the leads/wires going to the fan. Make sure they are not cracked or frayed. If you had a coolant leak, and they got coolant on them, they can degrade quickly. Check and see if they are rubbing on anything. Check the leads going to the coolest sensor. This could be a wire issue, which would cause the power drain, or a sensor issue, which could cause the fan not to come. Or both.
Now that the radiator leak may be fixed, I start the car and fans do not come on... I hook up scan tool and get link error. I have an acquaintence checking various items and I forget that scan tool is still connected... couple hrs later, no joy re: fans and when I try to start the car nothing... then see gearbox fault msg, failsafe mode msg, wron part fitted msg & driver door not closed msg... Charge battery and reset with no change... take battery to 2 shops where both say battery is good. Batterynissue, the hard reset should clear this. bUT, this will only work with a fully charged battery.
I have pulled the drivers side windo switches and the drivers door module, reinstalled drivers door module but not door switch, but I did this AFTER no start (no crank) and fault message. still get drivers door open when door is closed. Lost. Frustrated & broke. Ideas???
My thought from what you described.
Last edited by Rpach10115; 11-20-2017 at 09:49 PM.
#5
12-15-2017, 12:13 AM
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Relay woops
Well, still haven't sorted it all, but apparently I had left a relay on it's side instead of appropriately plugged back in, took a month to notice... Car runs and drives again, still waiting to access a serious computer to analyze the remaininng issues... it WAS NOT the battery. Now the only warnings I have are Drivers Door Open & Stabilizer Fail... still no cooling fans operating but she hasn't gotten HOT, not even half up the gauge. Still no drivers window control, ordered a used set of switches from ebay. Still waiting to get a hard reset done. Have tried the disconnect ground many times. Progress though.
#6
12-15-2017, 01:25 AM
Veteran Member
You can do the hard reset yourself :
Whenever you remove the battery never place it in backwards . Positive post goes in positive direction of travel .
Can't find a cut and paste on the hard reset but your priority would be the fans to protect the engine
Radiator fan system help : see post # 8
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-work-192239/
You can run AC on high and may ( under high demand conditions ) see both fans commanded on and will verify if both fans come on that the Fan Control Module works .
Still have the battery drain ?
A cheap engine analyzer beyond a code reader is about 12 bucks on Ebay that reads all your engine regulation sensor values into a graph you can store . ELM327 for USB of WiFi but not both . I prefer USB for more laptop options . Buy one that includes the cheaper version of software . Watch the whole video :
Whenever you remove the battery never place it in backwards . Positive post goes in positive direction of travel .
Can't find a cut and paste on the hard reset but your priority would be the fans to protect the engine
Radiator fan system help : see post # 8
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-work-192239/
You can run AC on high and may ( under high demand conditions ) see both fans commanded on and will verify if both fans come on that the Fan Control Module works .
Still have the battery drain ?
A cheap engine analyzer beyond a code reader is about 12 bucks on Ebay that reads all your engine regulation sensor values into a graph you can store . ELM327 for USB of WiFi but not both . I prefer USB for more laptop options . Buy one that includes the cheaper version of software . Watch the whole video :
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 12-15-2017 at 02:25 AM.