Well you know it does sound like a blender. What's odd to me is that it was quiet till I tightened those 2 bolts joining the throttle elbow to the supercharger.

I searched and found a lot of posts about the solid coupler and even a video that sounds just like my car. I guess it's possible that the coupler has been replaced with a solid one or that the original one has failed. Looks like if you want it quiet you need the OEM unit with the spring. Ebay only seems to have the solid ones or an oil filled "upgrade".

Is there any way to diagnose the coupler issue other than stripping it down? Anyone tried the oil filled nylon replacements?

 

if it has the solid coupler you have to live with the gear noise. I tried a solid one and did not like the noise. When i rebuilt the supercharger i put a new oem eaton one on. The original had 160000 miles on it and had no cracks or damage. I figure a new one should be ok. There are different opinions on both. I guess if you had an oem explode you would prefer the solid one. You can remove the drive belt and feel for the spring load to bounce back. The solid coupler will have no give or slack. Even better is to take the charger outlet off so you can hold the rotor pack while turning the pulley by hand. That would tell you for sure

 

Supercharger Snout Rebuild Kit M112 M90 Jaguar XJR XKR S 4.2 4.0 97-09 Eaton | eBay

 

Thanks, was hoping to find just the coupling. I don't have access to a press so wouldn't be able to replace the bearings but that looks like the only way to get the OEM style part.

 

check powerhouse uk directly or on ebay search rangerover supercharger coupler. About 150ish it looks like. I have these you are welcome to for free. Just pay postage. The oem one has no cracking. It has a little wear on one of the dowel bumper cushions. The other is oil filled nylon

 

Here is up close to see the bumpers

 

The coupling only is also available (Range Rover Sport 4.2 Supercharger OEM Sprung Coupler Isolator 2008 2009 | eBay) but too expensive. Add $50 and get the kit. You can use the coupler and the oil and keep the other parts for any later refurbishment.

 

Scottjh9, thanks for the offer, much appreciated. Part of me wants to jump on that offer but there's a nagging voice telling me I don't want to put in a used part and potentially have to do the job again if it fails. It seems like heat cycles are the enemy of these plastic components so new is the way to go.

I found one for about $60 + shipping https://superchargerparts.com/index....n-coupler.html or https://superchargersonline.com/prod...aded-isolator/ with higher shipping costs

-Mike



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No problem. I understand. The supercharger remove and reinstall should be a once in a lifetime thing if at all possible

 

If I'm taking off the supercharger it looks like I should replace the valley hoses and the 3-way connector. Anything else preventative worth doing at the same time?

Thanks
Mike

 

anything plastic in that area. Take a good look at the long accordian breather hose. The small coolant hose at the egr to throttle body. Aarcuda and datsports have good parts lists for the job. I think JagV8 also has a nice parts list. Sorry forgot you have an xjr. Those guys and myself have strs. Should have some similar parts for this job depending on year

 

I pulled the supercharger out today. The coupler doesn't show any signs of damage but the spring could be weak.

Turning the rotors by hand creates a knock on each rotation, it's not as bad rotating the opposite direction. I've attached a recording. I'm thinking this isn't normal and it should rotate smoothly. Not sure where to go from here.

 

Very possible bad nose piece bearings. Those rotors are very tight tolerance. How does the black coating on the rotors look. There are 2 bearings in the nose piece and 2 needle bearings at the rear of the rotor case that can be replaced. The rotor bearings themselves are non replaceable

 

Since you get knocking when turning the rotors directly (nose piece removed). the problem appears to be in the rotor bearings. As the front ones are not easily replaceable (specialist workshop job), you can try with replacing the two rear needle bearings. It would be a good practice to also replace the two nose piece bearings even though it seems that the problem is not there.

Alternatively, you can send it to a specialist for a complete rebuild or get a good used one.

 

ahhhh. I could not download the video. Thanks for clarifying nosepiece was off. He needs to remove the rotor pack and inspect needle bearings for sure

 

I pulled the supercharger rotors out . The needle bearings look ok. There's no scoring on the rotor stubs that go into the bearings and both are the same size so don't appear to have worn. I could rotate the needles ok and there didn't seem to be any signs of damage. Plenty of blue grease in one, little less in the other but not dry. Not sure what else to look for.

There was a lot of carbon build up on the rotors - picture below. I cleaned them with carb cleaner, the Teflon coating had worn through in just one spot - second pic pic below - but otherwise they cleaned up pretty well. No signs of rubbing on the rotors or the casing. I put some extra lithium grease in the bearing and reinstalled and the knock seems to be gone. There's still some noise from the rotors rotating but I'm thinking that may be normal or at least ok to live with - attaching an mp3. Let me know what you think, is this the normal sound? It's more a regular mechanical noise and no knocking like in the last recording.

Option 1 - get a used unit, found one near me for about $500, May be no better that one I have.

Option 2 - reinstall this one with the new coupler, save $500 but maybe have to go in there again if it doesn't work out. It was a lot quieter until I tightened up those 2 elbow bolts and it was the knocking that concerned me.

I'm leaning towards option 2.

Anyone know if it's ok to use a regular synthetic grease in the needle bearings or is there something special about that blue grease?

Thanks for all the helpful advice, truly appreciate your input.
Mike



Before cleaning, carbon build up on rotors

After cleaning, one spot with missing teflon

 

Here is what i used. No issues at all. I think the blue might be mobil. Rotors look nice after cleanup. New bearings in the snout would be a plus even if you had to pay a few bucks to a shop. The new coupler will be good