So the drivers side front wheel bearing is trashed and I need to get the axle off so I can take it to a shop and have them press in a new one. I took the only 3 nuts off that I can see holding the spindle on (see pics), what am I missing? Once the nuts are off should I be able to just swing the arms up and off or down and off? Thanks.

 

You have to remove the upper and lower balljoints nuts and the steering arm nut, use a press to take them out of the "vertical link" (the part holding the hub) and take it to a shop. They need a special tool to unbolt the ABS ring (a toothed ring) and then, using a press the procedure is easy as for any bearing change.The ABS ring tool cost a lot, might be 2-300 USD probably, so a Jaguar shop or a forum member might help you on this.

 

The ball joints are forced into their tapers in the spindle. Now that you have the nuts off you will need ball joint / tierod end splitters to seperate them. Or a big hammer (not recommended if you are reusing them). Protect the threads with and old nut if you are using a hammer

 

This is the 'fork' type of ball joint separator in use:



Put the nut back on loosely so the hub doesn't jump free as the joint separates and whack you in the shin or fall on your foot - they are b****y heavy!

Position the separator to avoid damaging the rubber seal and hit it on the end with a hammer. Not very technical.

Graham

 

Thanks for the replies guys. Yesterday I wind up getting the top two off, as was suggested here, I put the nut on thethe ends and whacked with a 3 lb sledge, but the bottom was a PITA and I went and borrowed a ball joint separator, the same fork kind you show here. I honestly don't see how that would have worked without trashing the boots, but the lower boot was already tore up so I just removed it 1st. I didn't notice anything for the ABS in the way, do you mean the wire that I disconnected? Well, I'm going to call a few shops and hopefully this won't cost too much, I think I was quoted $280 for labor and all if still attached to the vehicle, I'm hoping to get this pressed in for under $50, I'll let you know.

 

Hey guys I don't mean to hijack this thread but I am Running through this procedure on my 98 vdp and I left the lower nut on just past the threads so I wouldn't damage the threads. I popped the lower ball joint out with a press and now the nut is just turning the whole ball joint. so I cant get the nut to turn loose as the whole bolt or joint is rotating! any suggestions?

 

There's a sprung clip on the smaller end of the boot that keeps it tightly against the tapered metal to prevent water and dirt getting into the ball joint.

Because it's sprung, it can be eased up the taper as the fork is positioned.

This prevents damaging the boot. You only learn this after trashing the first few!

Graham

 

Tap the ball joint back in. Hard enough to seat it firmly - not hard enough to damage it. With a wrench on the nut, hit the wrench sharply with a hammer instead of trying to turn it by hand. This usually shocks the nut free.

Graham

 

Guys, check out this thread, it may help. Qhttps://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...bearing-67853/

 

ok so now I am reversing everything how do I know when the tapers are seated back into the bracket? what should I torque the bolts down to or is there another procedure? thanks again guys!

 

You'll be relieved to know they go back together a whole lot easier than they come apart!

Insert the ball joint into the vertical link by hand as far as it will go, put the nut on and torque to 60 - 80 Nm.

With torque settings, the lower number is for used bolts and the higher number is for new ones.

If you've moved the ball joint in relation to the track rod, you'll need the alignment checked.

Graham

 

Thank you guys so much got everything back together and no more horrible grinding noises everything feels beautiful and smooth she is purring as she should!