Hi. Just got my Jag on Sat, 7/13/19.

It is a 1999 XJ8 Base model.

What is the best way to attach the front license plate?

Check engine light came on a day after. Where can I take it that is close to Burlington, IA?

Thanks.

 

Welcome Okinana...glad to have you on site and congratulations on your purchase.

Any auto parts store can check you codes. Its only an OBDII system which all cars after 1996 have. You can order an $8 or so ELM 327 off Amazon if you want and download the Torque app and upgrade it for just a couple dollars. This way you'll always have it in case you have an issue in a remote area or such.
Post your findings here if you don't find a fix for the code or want more info. If doing a interweb search, be sure to put Jaguar in front of the "P" code to get more direct results that pertain to the car.

Front license mounts can be found on many sites, try a scrap yard. Here's a pic of one for example for where to mount it.

 

I went to my local Advance Auto Parts today to check what is causing my CEL to come on.

Here is what we found.

 

The first two being present usually lead to a vacuum leak, since both banks are showing, it could be something intake-related prior to the throttle body, or another vacuum line. Mine was a split in the hose leading from the TB to the brake booster in mine that caused those to throw. They're hard to track but it'll be somewhere. The 455 could be anything from the purge valve to the cannisters in the rear, lines in between, seals, connections, hard to say. Or could be a bad gas cap. 455s are hard to pinpoint. And the P1000 just means there's issues keeping it from giving the all clear.

 

 

Thanks CharlzO.

I am not very hands on.

So is this something I need to bring to the dealership? $$$$

Or can a trusted mechanic do this?

Where do you buy parts?

 

Thanks for interpreting the codes.

Is this going to be expensive?

Can this be done by any trusted mechanic?

Or should this be a job I need to bring to the dealership?

Should I buy the parts needed? Or do I need to have it checked first before I will find out what parts I need to buy.

Sorry, I am not very handy.

 

If you are not mechanically inclined, you will need to find a reputable mechanic.

Also you need to condense your threads as duplicate threads on the same subject confuse things.

 

Sorry for duplicate posts.

How do I condense the posts?

 

Don't think you can now, a moderator would have to do it, just best to avoid it in the future posts.

 

You can send a mod a PM. To find the mods assigned to this forum, ...when on the main X308 page, ...scroll down to the bottom on the right there is a list of mods. Prompt their site name and send them a PM asking them to merge the threads. In doing that, be sure to include links to the threads so they won't have to play Sherlock Holmes finding them. Easiest way is to open 2 tabs for the site so you can C&P.

Okinana, you list your in Burlington....Burlington where?...its a big world of Burlington's...

 

Okinana - no worries on the duplicate posts - I have merged them together. The folks here are excellent and will help you resolve your issues.

 

Under the center beauty cover near the cowl (between the coolant res cover and the tool tray cover) you will find the EVAP purge solenoid. It has on large hard plastic line that goes to the fuel tank. Look under the solenoid and see if its kinked or cracked. There is a vac line that goes from the solenoid to the throttle body just under the spring and see if the hose is split or leaking. There is also one more vac line that has a heat shield on it. I would bet one of those lines are leaking and its not properly controlling the solenoid to purge tank pressure into the intake. I just made a video for someone about this. After the repair is done you will want to reset the fuel trims. Easiest way is to unplug the battery for a few minutes.

 

LaserSVT

This is what I saw. No kinks, cracks or leaks.

 

The P1000 is just a readiness code. Means codes were reset and car hasnt been through 3 hot/cold cycles yet. The lean codes with the EVAP code would suggest the EVAP solenoid is staying open OR you have a vac leak in the engine bay somewhere and you need a new fuel cap. Oreillys has a fuel cap tester and can test the cap. Really its all just a guess without having the car on a proper scanner and reading the data in real time. See if the tank has pressure, see if the the EVAP solenoid isnt pulling the proper power, read where the car is comanding the TB to sit at. Hell your problem could be as easy as a dirty fuel filter, MAF and a bad gas cap.
If you were near by I would slap it on my machine and try to pinpoint it for you. I have a shop so I have the newest Autel Elite Pro scanner that can scan every single car made EXCEPT McLarens.....they dont like people poking around their stuff. lol

 

I wish I am near you.

I wish I am mechanically inclined.

Where do you buy parts?

 

Some from UK parts, most from Rock Auto, some from URO. Depends. Like the J gate shifter was 200+ for a good one in America but I got one from England for $30 shipped that has one tiny nick I can live with.
But like a Dayco blower belt is $70 or a gatorback is $20 on Rock Auto. The shock mounts are 300 each but on rock they are $80. I have CATS so i cant get the cheap inserts. The OEM Denso alternator is $330+ locally and $130 on Rock Auto.
But for used partsjust order from the UK. They are way cheaper (its like a Crown Vic there) and in better shape and plentiful.

 

Welcome Okinana

I am lucky to be mechanically minded BUT!
A Jaguar is a whole different world
so this forum has helped me resolve a far bigger problem than you have, I guess you feel a but what have I got my self into
well you will learn especial the mechanics, and grow to truly love the engineering behind Jaguar
remember Jags turn heads.
it's great when people from all over the world help each other
good luck Dutchy

 

Are these problems going to be expensive to fix?

 

Is partsgeek a reliable site to order parts from?