GR: your float is sticking; use a soft piece of wood and jiggle it -- or -- you have low coolant.

L16J: where are we with your codes? What was done to enable all these codes to now be read? As a start: disconnect the MAF sensor plug, clean the connectors, and carefully reconnect.

I think the way we learn on this forum is for members to report failures and successes! Sorry for the preaching.

 

I have had several replies to my RRP problem and I thank everyone who has tried to help. Yesterday I drove some 20 miles into Birmingham and for the first 6 the RRP message was 'on'. Then it went off and the car performed terrifically. However when I went back to it in order to travel home it wouldn't start and the message on the dash now showed 'Failsafe mode'. Then suddenly it did start and home I went.
This decided me to take the car to my mechanic for him to diagnose the fault and that is where I stand. I will get back to this forum as soon as I have news. Once again thank you.

PS. The 'coolant low' warning light came on unmercifully on my '98 Sport, so much so I disconnected it prior to replacing the sensor. 'It was driving me insane!'

 

My Daughter is having the same issue, let us know what you find out, I'll wait to troubleshoot until then.

 

I purchased a new OBD II reader today and now have the following persistent codes P0300; P0304; P0305; P0306; P1316 and P0204. I erased the codes but they came back. Any ideas on how to correct? I have replaced everything except the ECM. I have new battery, new MAF, spark plugs, all 8 coils, Knock sensors bank 1 and Bank 2, upper oxygen sensors, and thermostat, thermostat housing and hoses.

 

I am down to 2 codes which continue to come back after erasing codes. They are P0204 and 0304. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to clear the P0204?

 

Very unlikely though it is, it may be the PCM (aka ECM). You can get them tested/rebuilt. Rule out wiring etc first.

 

I finally took the Jag to JagMac in Dallas. They were clueless for three weeks and I finally got a call today stating it was a timing adjustment problem and they charged me $941.00. They also criticized the after market coils I purchased online.

 

If your timing was wrong and youi did not destroy the engine, you are indeed lucky! I suggest you disassociate with the hack that has been working on your car before now! Even if it is your boyfriend.

 

Can you provide any additional info on what the timing adjustment was?

 

Did the Jag dealer replace the secondary tensioners as part of the $941 fix? If so, you dodged a bullet. And, if so, we missed the signal that the car was running on one bank. I am surprised it took the dealer that long to find the fault. You might check some of the folks in the Dallas area who repair Jags and use them next time (Bob Gauff) instead.

As an aside, this thread got hijacked by other peoples' problems before Leslie's issue was resolved. And the real problem Leslie had was never discussed, the car was running rough, not the inability to read the ^^^^ing codes! Oh well, it's how we learn.