HI and thanks in advance for all the help I will get from this site I have just rescued a 1998 XJ8 L from my neighbor hear in Athens TN She has been sitting outside untouched for the last 6 years 4 flat tiers, bad paint bad gas, dead original Jaguar battery and who knows what else. The good stuff is a perfect interior and after I put a battery in and turned the key it cranked and the odometer only reads 32800 miles so what do I do now The previous owner said it was running rough when parked I am not a expert mechanic but know the basics and good gas should be first so I will just pull the tank and clean it out I found it in the trunk should be no problem WRONG who picked where the flue lines connect.

Question IS
What should be done before trying to start this baby for the first time?

 

I am a *bit* impatient, so if it were me (and it ISNT) I would throw 5 gallons of fresh gas in, some octane boost and a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and a new battery.

BEFORE attempting to start I would check the secondary tensioners and make sure the cam flats line up. If all that looked good, I would be driving it down the street that day.

 

Removing the tank would be a better thing to do but good luck with that.

 

Good luck! Keep us posted on your progress/process. I would agree with dsnyder586 remarks and add you might cross both fingers AND toes. (I would add a smiley here but I don't know how)

 

I agree I will just see what happens but I do need to deal with the fuel tank it is coated with rust on inside of tank. Have the tensioners been known to be a problem with low miles? I would not want to start my first Jag repair with something like that
Thanks Tom

 

Removing the tank may be difficult, a lot of wires around as I seen, probably using a hose to drain the old fuel is better. At this mileage the tensioners may be still good, but first thing on "to do" list. Waiting for a picture !

 

I only have 37k miles on mine, planning on 2nd tensioner upgrade to 3rd gens just to be safe. Forum members suggest water pump, t-stat and housing upgrades too. I follow their advice.

 

I can drain the tank but the rust on the inside has got to go so that tank is coming out I saw a homemade tool that was made out of a piece of plumbing tubing I might give that a try

 

I will do the tensioners ASAP can you tell if they are bad by just removing valve covers?

 

Look for cracks in the plastic, usually longitudinal, and missing slippers on the shoes. The miles are not as much a factor as the temperature history. If the engine had been overheated due to coolant loss that could lead to early failure.