XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Not fuel pump, timing chain or TB

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  #21  
Old 08-23-2017, 10:51 AM
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If I were ordering fuel pumps for my XJR (has two) I would probably order a couple of Denso 950-0172 pumps. Amazon prime is $76.78 each shipped. Rockauto has them for $70.79 plus shipping.

I am almost positive your XJ8 uses the same pump as my XJR except you only need one. Surely someone else on here will either confirm or deny that.

I have pulled an X308 tank before; it's not as horrible as I expected. Just make sure the tank is as empty as you can get it before you start. The previous owner of my XJR had OEM Jaguar pumps installed at cost of over $1,200.00 !! That was a year and a half ago so hopefully I won't be pulling the tank on this car anytime soon.
 

Last edited by harvest14; 08-23-2017 at 10:56 AM.
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  #22  
Old 08-24-2017, 04:34 AM
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That is correct that the XJ8 & XJR pump(s) are the same. Denso will always be my #1 choice. I wish more manufacturers had parts this good.
 
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  #23  
Old 08-25-2017, 07:03 AM
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Thanks guys, due to weather and my friends wife in the hospital, I won't be able to get back to my Jag until this weekend. I'll report back what I find.
 
  #24  
Old 08-25-2017, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Don B
In a pinch you can bend a large paper clip into a U and use that to jump the relay terminals to see if the pump runs. Some people put a piece of electrical tape around the middle of the paper clip to serve as an insulated handle, but as long as no other part of your body is touching ground when you jump the relay socket, you won't be shocked. As insurance, hold the paperclip with one hand and put your other hand in your pocket.

To test the integrity of the wiring harness between the relay and the pump, disconnect the harness from the evaporative flange on the top of the fuel tank and measure for battery power when the relay clicks on or you jump the relay socket. If you have battery power at that connector, then the pump or the wiring inside the tank is the issue.

I also like nilanium's other suggestions about a bent or kinked line and it's always a good idea to change the fuel filter just to rule it out.

Cheers,

Don
So I couldn't wait til Saturday, had some free time this evening. Wasn't sure exactly which pins to jump so I pulled the relay and found the two pins with resistance and the others were isolated. I applied 12v to those two pins (labeled 1 and 2 on the bottom of the relay) while checking for continuity on the other two pins, so then I knew not only which pins of the relays were supplying power (3 and 5) but also double checking that the relay was good. Pins 30 and 87 were the two pins in the relay socket that I needed to jump and did, but no fuel pump sound.

Taking Don's second bit of advice, (above) but not having a second set of hands, I connected a 12v light bulb (small side marker lamp) to the two larger diameter wires in the harness leading from the evaporative flange. I could see the bulb from the drivers seat, switched the key to run and the bulb lights just as the fuel pump should respond before start up. Looks like I got a fuel pump swap ahead of me..... Anybody got a link saved that explains the method where I drop the diff to gain access to the fuel line quick release thingies?

The wires I connected the light bulb to on the flange harness were black and green / brown. When I jumpered the relay socket, the light bulb stayed lit even with the ignition off. Am I connecting the bulb to the right wires in the evap flange wireing harness? Six pin plug, only four used, two thinner, two thicker (black and green / brown) which are the two I used.
 

Last edited by Seadawg; 08-25-2017 at 05:54 PM.
  #25  
Old 08-25-2017, 05:45 PM
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You don't drop the diff, just disconnect the 2 lines to be able to pull the tank forward. Go to the Sticky's at the top of the Forum and under How-To's by Jim for fuel pump replacement procedures.
 
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  #26  
Old 08-25-2017, 05:58 PM
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If you're having trouble reaching the lines you can unbolt the rear subframe at the two bolts that connect the rear truss to the frame and the whole assembly can swing down a bit to clear some space. There's also a method to make a fuel line release tool out of some brass pipe, which may give you a bit more reach than those plastic disconnects you get at a auto parts store.

I dropped the rear subframe because I needed to do diff bearings and replace the fuel lines themselves. It's not the most difficult job in the world, but if you can get away without having to drop the rear subframe, I'd avoid it.
 
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  #27  
Old 08-25-2017, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Highhorse
You don't drop the diff, just disconnect the 2 lines to be able to pull the tank forward. Go to the Sticky's at the top of the Forum and under How-To's by Jim for fuel pump replacement procedures.
I'll read the sticky for sure, I gave up last time after two weekends of maximum frustration, I could not get the lines to release, heck, I couldn't even SEE them! I almost dropped it then, but it seemed like going down the wrong path.

While researching this current issue, I stumbled over a couple of folks who did drop the diff, to disconnect the lines, but it does seem to be a bunch more work.
 
  #28  
Old 08-25-2017, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by nilanium
If you're having trouble reaching the lines you can unbolt the rear subframe at the two bolts that connect the rear truss to the frame and the whole assembly can swing down a bit to clear some space. There's also a method to make a fuel line release tool out of some brass pipe, which may give you a bit more reach than those plastic disconnects you get at a auto parts store.

I dropped the rear subframe because I needed to do diff bearings and replace the fuel lines themselves. It's not the most difficult job in the world, but if you can get away without having to drop the rear subframe, I'd avoid it.
I've seen some of those custom, single use, sink tubing tools. Now that I'm fairly sure it IS my fuel pump, I'm open to any and all options.

I don't have a pump yet and am wondering if I can source one of those Denso pump locally (even if I gotta spend a few more bucks. Bap-Geon?
 
  #29  
Old 08-25-2017, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Seadawg
I'll read the sticky for sure, I gave up last time after two weekends of maximum frustration, I could not get the lines to release, heck, I couldn't even SEE them! I almost dropped it then, but it seemed like going down the wrong path.

While researching this current issue, I stumbled over a couple of folks who did drop the diff, to disconnect the lines, but it does seem to be a bunch more work.
You need to use Fuel (A/C) line quick disconnect tools. Mine was too deep for the tool, I had to make my own out of a piece of 1/2" electrical conduit.
 
  #30  
Old 08-25-2017, 07:58 PM
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When I changed the fuel pumps in a previous XJR I owned (2003) all I had to do was loosen the parking brake cable for better access and I was able to snake my arms in there with the little plastic release tool I picked up at the local auto parts store for less than $10.

After I loosened the parking brake cable it took maybe 5 minutes to get both lines disconnected. You just have to experiment until you find the position to lay in and the access path for your arm. I spent an hour trying before I loosened the cable with no luck.
 
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  #31  
Old 09-05-2017, 07:04 AM
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Latest update: As I was steeling myself against the prospect of spending a few hours under and in the trunk of my Jag, my wife took it upon herself to call Abacus Racing in Virginia Beach, and asked them if the pump was under warranty.....


They said that it had a one year warranty that would expire in October. They would have to charge $109.00 for a diagnostic fee, but if they found the pump to be bad (Still not whirring as of last night.) then new pump and the labor to swap it out would be no charge! I can barley buy the pump for $109!


Now if I could find a marine mechanic who would stand behind their work for more than the usual 24 hours, I would be in high cotton!
 
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  #32  
Old 09-05-2017, 07:43 AM
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Ya know, sometimes those wives come in handy ...as for the marine mechanic, ....well, you know the old saying about boats "Bust Out Another Thousand". My friend has a 18.5' I've watched him poor money and time into than he's used it.
 
  #33  
Old 09-05-2017, 09:21 AM
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Abacus is a great outfit.
 
  #34  
Old 09-15-2017, 07:39 AM
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Final update:
Abacus Racing had it for a couple of days. They agreed it was the fuel pump but they also saw the symptoms that were occuring when my car first died; fuel pump struggling then nothing. They even bench tested it. The also agreed with me that this type of fuel pump failure was rare. Every other fuel pump failure I've dealt with was more binary I.E. working or not working at all.

They replaced the fuel pump under warranty (parts AND labor!) and charged me 1/2 hour diagnostic fee... $53 dollars! I couldn't even buy a replacement pump for that much! I've had nothing less than great service from these folks!!!
 
  #35  
Old 09-15-2017, 08:34 AM
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Nice ...and a nice recommendation for a shop for folks in your area...
 

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