XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Panic--Help--What happened? Car won't start!

Old Dec 1, 2016 | 12:53 PM
  #41  
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I locked the engine up due to no oil on my 4.2 Xjr. Hopefully your plan works. Those are the same things i tried doing at first. When they didnt work i tired taking a breaker bar and socket to the crank pulley and tried to turn it manually. Engine was so seized i ended up shattering the stainless steel socket. Anyways $7k and 3 months later i have it running again. Had to swap the motor. Was an absolute nightmare. I thought I could swap it in 3 days and it took me a month. Keep us updated. I wish you the best.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 01:26 PM
  #42  
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Wait: You checked the valve timing with the piston at the top of the cylinder? The cams should line up when the piston is 45deg after top top dead center.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 04:34 PM
  #43  
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jazzy: I don't think Eupho has your problem, his motor spins.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 05:55 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Jhartz
jazzy: I don't think Eupho has your problem, his motor spins.
Thank God. I'd hate for anyone to go through that.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 06:27 PM
  #45  
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YES! The big cat LIVES!!!!!!!

Hands up all you very clever people out there that suggested 'bore wash' you were bang on.

Finally found time today (Sunday) after a very busy time with the band I play in, (brass players are always very busy at this time of year?) Anyway, got some oil down the bores, put it all back together, foot hard down, switch on and wizz it over...fired and ran almost immediately, splutted like crazy, and you would have thought a new pope had been appointed, the smoke was everywhere.

To list all those that helped would take me ages, but special mention to Jhartz, Mark Murphy, RJ237, King Charles, and smtguy. And one very special mention to ericjansen who took the time to PM me some very useful tips and information. All you guys out there are absolute troopers.

During the time the car wasn't roaring, I did set about getting a new Tempterature Sensor, Full Load Breather pipe, and I also fitted the original MAF that came with the car when I got it. I also took notice of ericjansen's post somewhere and got myself a Bluetooth OBDII unit, and downloaded Torque Pro on my mobile phone, what a useful piece of kit this is, tells you all kinds of useful info while your driving (Be careful of taking your eyes off the road while using it!!!!)

So, I breathe a sigh of relief, the big cat purrs like a kitten BUT, I have no doubt I will be following the Forum again in the future when I have somethinmgs else go wrong with one of these wonderful motor cars. (I'm not too sure how to mark this thread as 'resolved'?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 01:49 AM
  #46  
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Good news indeed!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 04:04 AM
  #47  
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Thanks JagV8. Wish I was able to show everyone exactly how I tackled this with the help of you all, it would be great for the forum. In addition to the usual practice of fixing bore wash, I also encountered a few other interesting tricks & tips, like the small brass captivated nuts coming out, the ones that are embedded in the cam cover. Also why did I do a compression test when there wasn't enough compression due to bore wash, what was the point of that?

I think all these kind of issues could well serve others doing what I have just done, and those finding little problems like this when doing something else, would be very useful I think?

Anyway, for now, I'm a very happy chappy, thanks again.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 05:11 PM
  #48  
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That is very good news!

As I mentioned in an other thread, perhaps bore wash is related to colder outside temperatures.
Not sure, but I read about several the last month, while winter arrived.

Anyway, thanks for the 'thanks', and good luck just enjoying the car.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 06:52 PM
  #49  
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When I got the car started after the 'bore wash' fix, it popped and spluttered a lot, for quite a while (I didn't want to switch off until it was well warmed through).
Q: Could all this popping and spluttering cause a 'Knock Sensor' fault to suddenly appear, think the DTC says "Knock Sensor - Right High Bank" etc?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 09:38 PM
  #50  
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Godspeed
 
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 07:57 AM
  #51  
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Glad you got it sorted,time to enjoy,
Take Care.
Andy.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 01:15 PM
  #52  
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Congratulations to all of you.. Great job of assisting. Clever suggestions. A credit to the fraternity and bonding of owners of previously-owned Jaguars.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 01:32 PM
  #53  
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Yes on the knock sensor so recommend leaving it alone after resetting the codes
 
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Old Dec 17, 2017 | 02:39 PM
  #54  
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Thanks to all on this thread. I changed the knock sensor some time ago now, also changed the Can sensor, the car's never run better while I've owned it.

Like LAjag commented, a credit to all who suggested, still haven't found out how to mark threads 'resolved'?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2017 | 02:40 PM
  #55  
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Sorry CAM* sensor not can.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2017 | 07:35 PM
  #56  
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You had me worried there, never heard of a CAN sensor, but figured it was something else that could fail.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2018 | 09:40 PM
  #57  
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Default Fixed Car wouldn't start x308

I just went through something similar.
Thought it might be a "lockout" in anti-theft system.
Recently, my wife had locked our only key in trunk.
Fixed it though...

After taking it to Jaguar Dealer in Los Angeles, to diagnose problem..
they gave it back to me not-running, Flatbed tow back home.....but now...
with 3 missing bolts (on coil-pack valve cover), and broken parts...
coil-pack valve cover broken (only 3 bolts held-on by 90psi will do that),
starter broken (guess their Jag techs haven't read the TIS caution about not running starter more than 10 seconds without short rest to cool
down) ... and ... their diagnosis ... Needs Starter (est $1265) and spark plugs ($650).

Onward... with broken starter and missing parts due to Official Jaguar Service center work

I just completed the repair.. after replacing starter.
A. took plugs out and cleaned them with acetone .. added teaspoon of 30wt oil to each cylinder .. using 1/8" clear pvc tubing marked at "one teaspoon" line (similar to refrig ice-maker tubing)
B. cranked engine 8 seconds at a time, until eng gained compression and fired.
C. Removed plugs, cleaned again with acetone, and continued.. (3 times, i removed plugs, cleaned them, and re-installed plugs)
D. Changed old plugs for new plugs.. Bosch Iridium
E. Car would not idle without stalling.. acted "rich".
F clean MAFS , heat sensor connection plugs and throttle body connectors
G. Cleaned MAFS with special MAFS cleaner.
H. vacuum lines... . Now. here is the culprit to search out... "Brake booster vacuum line" connects just below throttle body, and is similar to connection in the S-type and X-type cars.. only held by a plastic clip which presses vacuum line into an "o" ring set in brass fitting.
and car was fixed.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 01:42 PM
  #58  
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Seems to me that this is about the third or fourth time in the last couple of months that the Jag dealers' tech can't solve issues with the X308s. Youth has its advantages and dis . . . .
 
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