I had a check engine light pop up several months ago with an EGR-related code. Since the EGR valve is not ridiculously expensive for these cars, I decided to just buy a new one. I didn't want to take everything apart, just to discover that it was bad instead of being dirty, then have to wait for a new one to be delivered. So I installed the new one about a month ago, which was a bit of a pain, and put everything back together. The old valve was completely clogged with carbon, and so was the passage that leads from the EGR valve into the intake manifold. I made sure that passage was 100% clean before I installed the new valve. It's a good thing that I took everything apart when I did, because both bolts holding the EGR valve to the intake manifold were loose, and so were the 2 bolts on the EGR-end of the pipe that leads to the exhaust manifold. Anyway, it's been about a month, and the check engine light has not yet turned off. It's been a long time since I took automotive classes in school, but I seem to recall that the EGR test was one of the more "finicky" tests to run ( I think the correct term is "monitor?") I seem to remember it being something like "drive at x amount of speed for y amount of time, at a certain throttle position," etc. But I may be thinking of something else. I DO only drive about a mile each way to and from work, so perhaps that has something to do with it? I do let the car reach operating temp before I start driving, if that matters. Or, alternatively, is there some other common issue that these cars have relating to the EGR system? I read something in an older thread about the MAP sensor possibly being the culprit, but it was somewhat vague.

Any and all help is appreciated! I have my 2 year emissions test due at the end of July, so I need to get this figured out. If I can't pass the emissions test, they will give me an extension, but I can't renew my license plates until it passes. And I would really like to be able to continue driving my car

 

Maybe the ECU doesn’t auto clear after a fault is resolved?

I’d clear and just wait for your readiness monitors to all show ready.

 

If a monitor won't set it's not to blame for the MIL.

The MIL's on because there's a fault. What code(s)?

If there were no faults the MIL goes off after 3-4 warm ups. Definitely (by law).

(One or more monitors may well not be able to complete due to codes but that's an issue for later, if at all.)

 

Johnny:

We're assuming you haven't cleared your codes. Maybe, because doing so also resets the emissions OBDII data... And, requires a so-called "drive cycle"....

I've been down that road more than once on emissions in TX. Not sure what they allow in IL, but, I've "heard" one of the reasons TX allows two (for 2000 MY and older) "not ready's" of the "monitors" is a direct result of Jag's not being able to reset. If you pull your battery or clear your codes, you can't "pass" emissions without a lot of driving. Unfortunately, I think you're only allowed one "not ready" in IL.

IMHO, driving only a mile or so at a time, you'll never get all six monitors to show ready. Thankfully, I don't have to fool with that anymore-- now, living in a county that doesn't do the OBDII testing-- but, when I lived in Houston, it could take 300-500 miles to get to only two monitors "not ready."

However, I've checked mine a few times and, driving like you, it takes months to get to only two "not ready's". Can't even remember when I only had one "not ready." Or, for that matter, the P1111 code-- the "all good" code for Jag's...

So, the moral of the story is, once you fix your emissions, you have to needlessly burn a couple of tanks of gas to get your OBDII to show your car is not emitting too much.

Regards... Mark

 

For my '98 XJR I followed the directions in post #10 of this thread. One cycle cleared all tests. I live in a rural area, so it was easy for me to drive the cycle. Would be a challenge in the city. There's a lot more information in the thread as well.

Thread

 

He says "the check engine light has not yet turned off" so that is the BIG issue. The monitors won't set until all faults are fixed.

The drive cycle is not the point. The MIL being on shows a fault that needs fixing.

 

UPDATE: I did a bunch of shopping today, picking up supplies for this coming week. After my shopping was completed, I decided to run to Autozone to have my CEL turned off. Going to Autozone, I ended up doing a pretty quick 0-60 to merge onto the highway. About halfway through that, the CEL turned off So I guess I drove enough miles (or whatever) to get the computer to run a test again, and it determined that the problem no longer existed. I am VERY happy! Thanks again for all of the suggestions and comments

 

Johnny:

Glad you got that sorted . As said, those drive cycles can be tedious. Someone posted the Jaguar drive cycle that I used a few years back . Note at the bottom it says it may take five of those Cycles to complete the "ready" monitors . In Houston , that means 5 cold starts or 5 days .

If I may, rather than going to the chain stores , pick yourself up an ELM 327 OBD2 reader, the one that uses the USB cord. I'm guessing you have a laptop? It plugs into your USB and with free software, you can check your codes and reset them. It also tells you the state of the six monitors. As said, I think you get one "not ready" in Illinois . I've tried some of the Bluetooth OBD2 readers. It worked fine on my Porsche but not so the Jaguar. The ELM 327 is not as good as icarsoft, but seems to read all the factory codes. It may not tell you exactly what they are but you can Google the odd ones that apply to just the Jag.

Next time you're in Walmart , I think they have them for about 12 bucks. Personally, I never go there , but I order dog food , and a long long time ago in a galaxy far far away, toilet paper and peanut butter online, with free shipping.

Anyway, Welcome to the world of the Jaguar drive cycle!

Regards ... Mark

 

Thanks Mark I may have to get one of those! I have a proper scan tool, but it had issues interfacing with my car (even though it is one of the ones that should work with it.) Very frustrating.

Anyway, I decided to get my emissions test done yesterday, and I passed I didn't need to do it until the end of July, but I figured I would get it taken care of, in case the light decided to come back on for some reason. Now I can relax a little bit.