I had a "Check Rear Lights" message and found a burned out double filament bulb in the rt rear brake light. I bought a new set of bulbs and replaced both sides. The rt side still does not work. The other side with the now new bulb is working fine. Still have the message on the console.

Are there separate fuses for right and left. I looked and all fuses seem to be fine.

Thanks,
Pat

 

Have you tried to conect the lamp housing from rt so the other side ?

 

I am going to try and rule out the housing tomorrow am. Thanks for the help

 

Well I pulled the bulb holder out and did a continuity check for the tail / brake light bulb slot. It checks out fine. So I reconnected the wiring harness and checked the tail lights and that works, 11.69 volts at the bulb with the lights on. Then while depressing the brake pedal I checked the voltage for that lead and nothing,0 volts and nothing at the harness either. So what would cause only the passenger side brake light to not work?? Relay?

Any help is appreciated. Also was this site down? I was getting a bad URL error message in my browser on two different networks since yesterday morning. Just now came up for me.

Pat

 

If you have no power to the socket check the connector at the bulb holder for melting, check all fuses in the trunk fuse box. The security locking control module controls brake lamps except the high mount lamp. The lamps are controlled independently from the SLCM for right and left so a problem with the module could cause one lamp to be out. Further checks will probably require a wiring diagram.

 

R_T is correct, the blue wire to the right rear stop lamp is a direct output from pin 9 of the Security and Locking Control Module. There is not a single connection point shown in the diagram between the SLCM and the lamp connector.

Orange / yellow at pin 3 is the feed for the left side: you could try connecting the two together, but in all likelyhood that will fry that transistor in the SLCM and that side will be out too.

Check continuity to make sure the wire is not broken between the two components , if not it's time to punt. Pull the left side carpet and look in the spare tire well for the VCATS sticker: Look for the SLCM part number and 3 digit suffix programming code, post it here or message me, and we'll go from there.

 

Thanks for the incredible support on this forum! I will be able to look into the SLCM and blue pin 9 wire this afternoon / evening and will post what I found.

Again, Thanks to both R_T and JagTech

 

I had a look at it this evening. The passenger side which I am having problems with seems to have the orange/yellow and the drivers side has the blue wire. Either way I chased it from the bulb holder to the wiring harness that runs past the battery and up the back of the trunk. There is no way to find the orange / yellow wire that I can see. There is no VCATS sticker in the spare tire well, in fact there is nothing but a tire and tools. But within the luggage comp fuse box is a Security and Locking Module sticker with the following numbers:
LNG2600HB 315 MHz , Visteon: W9F15K600 AA, S/N:B006136

Look familiar?

 

Well, so much for my incredible support.

I have tried to attach a photo, I hope it works. The photo is a VCATS sticker: this one in a different location on an XK8. Yours should be on the driver's side of your trunk, with the spare tire cover removed and the bottom of the carpet pulled up.

The SLCM part number (LNG 2600 HB) did not come up, but we need the programming code from the VCATS regardless.

 

Ahh, the little bit about "Bottom of the carpet pulled up" was key. So the part number LNG 2600 HB is there also. The three digit code is "008"

Pat
On Edit: noticed you're from Powell OH. I used to live in Dublin and went to OSU. My Brother lives in Powell.

 

That being the case, I can tell you that your brother is freezing his *** off. Global warming is currently on backorder in Powell, Ohio.

As for the SLCM: the latest one I have is '99, and it is not compatible. The only listing I have available before tomorrow indicates that 2001-2003 is the range for your module, and the three digit programming code must be verified for a correct replacement. Jaguar supplies a correctly programmed module, but the list price is $705.00.

The wiring diagram I cited was 2000, as that is the latest one I have printed out. I will verify the wiring codes for 2001 in case they are different, so you can be sure that there is no signal when testing output directly at the SLCM connector.

 

Let me know what you see on the wiring diagrams. Mine looks like the wiring harness off the passenger side bulb holder runs straight past the battery box and up the back of the trunk. There is a part of that harness that branches off to the SLCM at the fuse box in the trunk, but not the wire in question.

Thanks,
Pat

 

Did you look at the fuse or test it, cause they back feed power on those circuits. Which meens you can have a blown fuse and have 12v on both sides. Ummm been caught with my pants down on that one more than once.....easy to forget about backfeed on circuit when checking

 

I looked at each and every fuse in the box. The wire in question (feed to the passenger brake light) does not have any voltage, at lease at the bulb holder.

 

Anybody have any insight to add as to how to eliminate the SLCM from my brake light problem?

 

Greetings,

Old news first, the wiring diagram did not identify left and right lamps, so I was basing the wire color choice on the respective locations in the picture.

If you cut and switch the two output leads at the SLCM, the fault should change sides and thus verify that there is no "mystery" wiring break to the right brake light.

Your idea is one that had occurred to me, but if you run the feed from the third brake light you will still have the "rear lamp fail" warning. What I would NOT try to do is to to power both brake lights from the one good output at the SLCM.

 

What am I looking at if I have to replace the SLCM? I am not going to "rig" the third brake light to the pass rear brake.

I have not yet determined the wiring is at fault, but I will soon.

Pat

 

Apparently I'm spending too much time trying to help with your problem, and not enough time interpreting your questions. My apologies.

If "What am I looking at" to replace the SLCM is a question of the component cost, please refer to the information provided in post #11 above. If you are asking for a repair procedure for its replacement, disconnect the battery and remove the trunk fusebox assembly. The disconnections and replacement at that point should be intuitive.

"How to eliminate the SLCM from my brake light problem" reads to me like a request to bypass the unit in an effort to make the brake light work. So I attempted to answer that question, and pointed out the inadvisability of doing so. I presumed that you had noted the replacement cost of the SLCM posted previously, and were asking for a way to "rig" it instead. That's not the way I'd fix your car, so again my apologies for presuming that's what you were trying to do.

If that question was meant to ask "how do I confirm that my SLCM is inoperative?", all you need is a test light and the information from post #6. You have correctly pointed out the ambiguous information in the wiring diagram, so pin #3 at the SLCM is the voltage output to the right rear brake light bulb: if you have no power there with the brake pedal depressed, you have a faulty SLCM. You will have power at pin #9 with the pedal depressed, as that is the voltage output for the working left rear brake light.

The suggestion I made about switching the two wires at the SLCM was an easy way for you to verify that there was no mystery break in the wiring to the inoperative light. It is not a necessary step, it there is no power out at pin #3 then the diagnostic work is finished and so is you SLCM.

The published list price for LNG 2600 HB 008 is $705.00. If your local dealer is charging you a price in excess of that amount, please message me privately and I can provide one. This is a module specifically programmed to suit your car, which catagorizes it as a special order part that must be prepaid and is non-returnable.

The security remotes for your car will have to be reprogrammed after replacing your SLCM. To my knowledge, no other reprogamming is required.

 

Thanks for all your help. I wanted to find out if I could buy an SLCM outside of the dealer for less money. I will call them tomorrow and find out what they want for one.

 

You're welcomed. Outside of the Jaguar dealer network, the only choice will be to locate a used SLCM. That will require matching the programming code and part number from the donor vehicle precisely, and most salvage yards will not know what a VCATS sticker is or be able to verify a unit on the shelf.