Passenger side rear brake light not working, already replaced bulb
#21
02-11-2009, 09:35 AM
#22
02-11-2009, 10:46 AM
Thanks, I am still looking into that possibility. However, it is not easy to trace the harness back to the SLCM for trouble shooting. Before I buy a new SLCM I will rule that out completely.
#24
05-08-2009, 01:21 PM
#25
05-12-2009, 04:07 AM
Junior Member
How I fixed mine
Guys
If you are good at soldering you can fix yours too.
I had the same problem with my controller.
No brake light on the right side.
I checked everything first to make sure it was the controller.
Just swap the lights from side to side and check wiring to
narrow it down to the controller.
I then took the controller out of the car and with a little trouble
managed to get the case apart to look inside.
I spent some time tracing where pin 3 (right side brake light) went
to on the circuit board.
There are three chips right next to each other with the markings
"BTS409L1" on them.
These are the chips used to drive the power to your brake bulbs.
Now for the really cool thing.
The one in the middle is not used in my car at least for anything.
There are no connections from it to the connector(s).
The on to the right of the middle chip is for the right side and the one
to the left is for the left brake light.
So what I did was unsoldered the legs on the right side chip (the one that
was bad) and also to the middle chip.
Then I used some wire wrap wire to solder the legs on the middle chip
to the circuit board where the right side chip is sitting.
You can't remove the chips from the board. Really weird I have never
seen this before. They must be epoxied on the board. Really strange.
Anyhow I put it back in the car and now have right side brake (and left) lights and NO nagging messages on the driver display.
Not to mention saved about $800
Really bad design IMO
If you are good at soldering you can fix yours too.
I had the same problem with my controller.
No brake light on the right side.
I checked everything first to make sure it was the controller.
Just swap the lights from side to side and check wiring to
narrow it down to the controller.
I then took the controller out of the car and with a little trouble
managed to get the case apart to look inside.
I spent some time tracing where pin 3 (right side brake light) went
to on the circuit board.
There are three chips right next to each other with the markings
"BTS409L1" on them.
These are the chips used to drive the power to your brake bulbs.
Now for the really cool thing.
The one in the middle is not used in my car at least for anything.
There are no connections from it to the connector(s).
The on to the right of the middle chip is for the right side and the one
to the left is for the left brake light.
So what I did was unsoldered the legs on the right side chip (the one that
was bad) and also to the middle chip.
Then I used some wire wrap wire to solder the legs on the middle chip
to the circuit board where the right side chip is sitting.
You can't remove the chips from the board. Really weird I have never
seen this before. They must be epoxied on the board. Really strange.
Anyhow I put it back in the car and now have right side brake (and left) lights and NO nagging messages on the driver display.
Not to mention saved about $800
Really bad design IMO
The following 3 users liked this post by jackshaheen:
#26
05-12-2009, 11:34 AM
Junior Member
pin 10
Well actually even though pin 10 has no wires on the connector
that plugs into it the chip is used on the circuit board.
It controls the relay on the board which locks your gas cap.
Oh well I can live without that feature over brake lights.
I actually found the chips for like $3 but out of stock.
If anyone knows where I can buy the chip please reply.
that plugs into it the chip is used on the circuit board.
It controls the relay on the board which locks your gas cap.
Oh well I can live without that feature over brake lights.
I actually found the chips for like $3 but out of stock.
If anyone knows where I can buy the chip please reply.
The following users liked this post:
MasterJagTech (08-16-2020)
#27
05-12-2009, 11:50 AM
Junior Member
The following users liked this post:
MasterJagTech (08-16-2020)
#28
05-12-2009, 12:44 PM
Junior Member
Here to help others
If any of you guys have this problem and you are sure its your module AND you don't feel comfortable soldering a new chip on the board then if you will pay shipping both ways and for the part(s) I will fix it for nothing or maybe a small fee (more likely nothing - kinda fun to do since all we do now as techs is module swap).
Cheers
Cheers
The following users liked this post:
Markus (01-06-2011)
#29
08-07-2009, 11:31 AM
Jack's Fix - SLCM
Since I can barely get the batteries back in the remote correctly, I took Jack up on his offer. Pulled out the SLCM (so easy even I could do it!), put it in a box and sent it to Jack. He replaced the chip - sent it back - I've put it in - and everything is back to normal.
Dealer would have charged $705 for part / I imagine about $250 to install - configure the new transmitter codes / etc...
The support on this forum really is amazing. If you own a Jag, you better own a login to this forum
================================================== =====
Dealer would have charged $705 for part / I imagine about $250 to install - configure the new transmitter codes / etc...
The support on this forum really is amazing. If you own a Jag, you better own a login to this forum
================================================== =====
If any of you guys have this problem and you are sure its your module AND you don't feel comfortable soldering a new chip on the board then if you will pay shipping both ways and for the part(s) I will fix it for nothing or maybe a small fee (more likely nothing - kinda fun to do since all we do now as techs is module swap).
Cheers
Cheers
The following users liked this post:
MasterJagTech (08-16-2020)
#30
08-11-2009, 10:48 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Sounds like Jack has the answer... and is willing to help - Thanks!!!
I have a similar problem, but sounds like the same solution would work for me as well... my passenger brake light decided to stay on...?!?!?! I just took it to a dealer. He charged me $59.95 for diagnostics and he told me it would cost me $829.00 just for the SLCM and I can't get a sticker until it's fixed. I'm not mechanically inclined and would be happy to purchase the parts if I could get Jack to provide me some help... I LOVE the car, but it cost a lot to keep it running. It's my dream car and I'd like to keep... just lost my job a few weeks back and can't justify paying so much for the repairs... and I don't want to sell it (actually can't until I fix the lights). I'm willing to call or chat directly.
Thanks for your anticipated help...!
Mark
Thanks for your anticipated help...!
Mark
#31
08-12-2009, 08:46 AM
Junior Member
Can you solder the replacement part on the circuit board yourself?
If your soldering skills are beginner I would not attempt this.
Are you asking to buy the part?
Help on how to replace the part?
PM me if you need to.
Jack
#32
09-22-2009, 10:55 PM
Senior Member
Jack,
I have a similar problem.
Passenger tail light is the only thing that works outside of the turn signals and the brake light on the trunk lid.
I took out the lamp control module from the fuse box in the trunk (OK...I tried to download a picture here, but to no avail). Damn computers anyway!
I took the casing off, and found that the top 4 large resisters had fried, and even fried the circut board they were mounted to.
I re-wired the circut board and put new resisters in , and it worked for 2 minutes, and then went out again.
I found another lamp control at a salvage yard, and put it in (with the casing off to see what might happen)...turned on the headlights with the key on, and nothing except the third resistor from the top was getting hotter than he--.
I immediately disconnected it, so hopefully the newer controller still works.
OK...with that being said, do you think it might be my slcm?
I don't even know where the slmc is located on my 1999 XK8.
I sure don't want to take all the time it takes to find a grounded wire if you think it might be my slcm.
What do you think?
Please tell me where the slcm is located...I'll take a good look at it and maybe have you work your magic on it (glad to pay).
Thoughts?
I have a similar problem.
Passenger tail light is the only thing that works outside of the turn signals and the brake light on the trunk lid.
I took out the lamp control module from the fuse box in the trunk (OK...I tried to download a picture here, but to no avail). Damn computers anyway!
I took the casing off, and found that the top 4 large resisters had fried, and even fried the circut board they were mounted to.
I re-wired the circut board and put new resisters in , and it worked for 2 minutes, and then went out again.
I found another lamp control at a salvage yard, and put it in (with the casing off to see what might happen)...turned on the headlights with the key on, and nothing except the third resistor from the top was getting hotter than he--.
I immediately disconnected it, so hopefully the newer controller still works.
OK...with that being said, do you think it might be my slcm?
I don't even know where the slmc is located on my 1999 XK8.
I sure don't want to take all the time it takes to find a grounded wire if you think it might be my slcm.
What do you think?
Please tell me where the slcm is located...I'll take a good look at it and maybe have you work your magic on it (glad to pay).
Thoughts?
#33
09-23-2009, 07:53 AM
Junior Member
#34
09-23-2009, 09:16 AM
Veteran Member
Juat a guess, but I believe the thing you describe as a lamp control module might be the security module, but in either case, NO, the security module would not be what was causing the current sense resistors to get hot. That would most likely be a short circuit in the wiring to the lamp. In a XJ8, the wiring on the hinge is a known problem, and I would not bet against an XK having something similiar.
#35
09-23-2009, 02:17 PM
Senior Member
#37
03-13-2010, 10:48 PM
Apparently I'm spending too much time trying to help with your problem, and not enough time interpreting your questions. My apologies.
If "What am I looking at" to replace the SLCM is a question of the component cost, please refer to the information provided in post #11 above. If you are asking for a repair procedure for its replacement, disconnect the battery and remove the trunk fusebox assembly. The disconnections and replacement at that point should be intuitive.
"How to eliminate the SLCM from my brake light problem" reads to me like a request to bypass the unit in an effort to make the brake light work. So I attempted to answer that question, and pointed out the inadvisability of doing so. I presumed that you had noted the replacement cost of the SLCM posted previously, and were asking for a way to "rig" it instead. That's not the way I'd fix your car, so again my apologies for presuming that's what you were trying to do.
If that question was meant to ask "how do I confirm that my SLCM is inoperative?", all you need is a test light and the information from post #6. You have correctly pointed out the ambiguous information in the wiring diagram, so pin #3 at the SLCM is the voltage output to the right rear brake light bulb: if you have no power there with the brake pedal depressed, you have a faulty SLCM. You will have power at pin #9 with the pedal depressed, as that is the voltage output for the working left rear brake light.
The suggestion I made about switching the two wires at the SLCM was an easy way for you to verify that there was no mystery break in the wiring to the inoperative light. It is not a necessary step, it there is no power out at pin #3 then the diagnostic work is finished and so is you SLCM.
The published list price for LNG 2600 HB 008 is $705.00. If your local dealer is charging you a price in excess of that amount, please message me privately and I can provide one. This is a module specifically programmed to suit your car, which catagorizes it as a special order part that must be prepaid and is non-returnable.
The security remotes for your car will have to be reprogrammed after replacing your SLCM. To my knowledge, no other reprogamming is required.
If "What am I looking at" to replace the SLCM is a question of the component cost, please refer to the information provided in post #11 above. If you are asking for a repair procedure for its replacement, disconnect the battery and remove the trunk fusebox assembly. The disconnections and replacement at that point should be intuitive.
"How to eliminate the SLCM from my brake light problem" reads to me like a request to bypass the unit in an effort to make the brake light work. So I attempted to answer that question, and pointed out the inadvisability of doing so. I presumed that you had noted the replacement cost of the SLCM posted previously, and were asking for a way to "rig" it instead. That's not the way I'd fix your car, so again my apologies for presuming that's what you were trying to do.
If that question was meant to ask "how do I confirm that my SLCM is inoperative?", all you need is a test light and the information from post #6. You have correctly pointed out the ambiguous information in the wiring diagram, so pin #3 at the SLCM is the voltage output to the right rear brake light bulb: if you have no power there with the brake pedal depressed, you have a faulty SLCM. You will have power at pin #9 with the pedal depressed, as that is the voltage output for the working left rear brake light.
The suggestion I made about switching the two wires at the SLCM was an easy way for you to verify that there was no mystery break in the wiring to the inoperative light. It is not a necessary step, it there is no power out at pin #3 then the diagnostic work is finished and so is you SLCM.
The published list price for LNG 2600 HB 008 is $705.00. If your local dealer is charging you a price in excess of that amount, please message me privately and I can provide one. This is a module specifically programmed to suit your car, which catagorizes it as a special order part that must be prepaid and is non-returnable.
The security remotes for your car will have to be reprogrammed after replacing your SLCM. To my knowledge, no other reprogamming is required.
Al Perez
Irvine, Calif
