IT looks like you are now narrowing your issue down...
Fuel filter change is cheap and easy.
If a failing pump or filter have coursed the link lead/connections to over heat/melt its still an intermittent issue and could be difficult to confirm with out pulling the pump and looking...if the leads/connections are ok you may need a pump..
Most would change lead and pump regardless.

Good look

 

So it does look like a fuel pump replacement is in my immediate future.

I have researched online and on the forum regarding how to remove the tank, and I find that some people say you have to disconnect the fuel lines under the rear axle, and that it is a 100% PITA, and other videos indicate that you can wiggle the tank out enough to remove the pump without disconnecting the lines under the car, and yet another post indicated that you can remove the tank without disconnecting the fuel lines under the car but instead cut and replace the rubber connecting hoses on top of the fuels tank.

Anyone here on the forum have direct experience with this?

Also any recommendation regarding make of replacement fuel pump, and are there any other items that need to be replaced at this time?

 

If you damage the fuel line(s) under the tank you will be SOL for new replacement(s) (they are NLA).

I have never tried to remove/slide back the tank without removing the fuel lines but then again I have a lift and the proper tools to do the job correctly.
Salvage yards rarely have good replacements because the guys removing the tank don't remove the lines until AFTER the tank is out and the lines are DESTROYED!!!!!!!!!!!

good luck

bob

 

Yes, reading posts on this forum and internet in general it seems the fuel lines to the tank have to be treated with extreme care.

I know this has been beaten to death but it is frustrating that the design of the gas tank didn't allow for a much easier access to the submerged fuel pump, it would have been so easy to do during the design stage.

My only dilemma now is which fuel pump to use, there are many in the $25-$85 price range, and I'm not sure which brand is better or not, Carter, Bosch, AC Delco, etc. etc.

 

You must be under some delusion that cars are designed for maintenance in mind (HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA).

Cars are designed to go together in the most efficient manner. (period)

We mechanics are tasked with the attempted 'work-arounds'!

bob

 

I would go for a fuel pump that states its a direct replacement,
this way you are not needing to modify anything or solder different link lead plugs on to make the pump fit.
Maybe try one of the forum sponsors.
I used british parts for my pumps on the xkr.

Good luck.

 

The replacement pumps usually come with an adapter link harness if the connector is different from the factory.

The ones I've used just plug into the Jaguar harness and plug into the replacement pump.

Some plug directly into the Jaguar harness.

bob

 

So, it did end up being the fuel pump, the condition became more frequent and I could hear the pump grumbling and groaning in the tank as it tried to function.

Due to the numerous posts here and other places about how difficult it is to access the fuel tank lines, especially without a lift, I opted to let my local independent shop do the work. Labor was $350, I supplied the fuel pump (AC Delco $35.00) and a new fuel filter.

Picked the car up yesterday and it now runs perfectly again.

 

You are right about that.. but code p111 is different from code p1111 code p111 is what they are talking about.. its a code saying one of the sensors is reading at high voltage. Or is sometimes reading at high voltage.

 

They are NOT talking about P111.

Also, there is NO SUCH CODE. It would be P0111 or some such (and, again, it's not what this thread is about).