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Primary chain noise at start up? AND brake issue! Help!

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Old 08-31-2009, 07:07 PM
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Default Primary chain noise at start up? AND brake issue! Help!

Hi. I have a 2000 Vanden Plas, and when the car is started, the engine is quiet. However, if I rev the engine to about 2700rpms before the coolant temperature gauge is in the center, the engine makes a loud noise that sounds like it is coming from a lower part of the engine. When the engine is warmed up, the sound goes away completely. Does this sound like a primary chain noise? I have had my secondary chains replaced. I haven't had an oil change for about a year, as I have only driven my car about 4k miles in the past year. Could an oil change give more oil pressure to the primary guides and cause the noise to go away?

Also, my brake pedal is becoming progressively softer. Do the master cylinders of these cars fail much?
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Old 09-02-2009, 08:10 PM
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Don't know if they fail often,but soft pedal=not good. You have a leak in the system somewhere that needs attention soon. Brake fluid and paint along with other electrical parts don't mix well. If no leak,then the fluid at least needs to be flushed and changed. If you look at your brake fluid and it's tan -brown in color it's no good anymore.

Last edited by 1Jaguar1; 09-02-2009 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:29 AM
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I agree with 1jaguar1. I would flush the brake system completely asap. look for a leaking piston seal on your calipers, that may likley be the fault. IMO even though we use synthetic motor oil (5-30) right?!! filter and oil should be changed at least every 6 mos regardless of mileage. Once the oil is introduced to the crankcase, the hydrocarbons other stuff start oxidizing the oil and cause it to break down regardless of heat (although that does it's share too). you may want to check into some solvents and add it to your immediate oil & filter change to removed sludge build up; take a long drive 1-2 hrs let things really heat up and then drain and use a good grade of synthetic oil and filter.
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:35 AM
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I forgot to add that I had A 1971 xj6 that sat for a while before i managed to put a 383 stroker in it. The brake master cylinder was aluminum and had pitted. the teck that helped me suggested either honing out the body, sleeving the cylnder and rebuilding the master, or honing and rebuilding i opted for the later and it worked just fine. a new unit was around 500.00 usd........ just some thoughts for starting points not a door to a panic room
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