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When ignition is at auxiliary position should it run through system check, or is auxiliary the position just before but that after key in out position.
I have tried both without success, my ignition has a key in our position, then like a short throw to resting position, then a position that has system check, and finally start.
Also, I have been leaving my working FOB attached to the key when in the ignition while trying to program new one.
Ha, now here's a valuable tip for ya, found after several days worth attempt without success, check to make sure new FOB battery is not upside down !!
After checking I found my battery had been installed the wrong way and therefore nothing I tried would work, after flipping it programed first time just fine and works great :-)
I bought these a while back in anticipation of adding another key, but (as per post 3308 in "what did you do to your X308 today") I was fortunate enough to gain an original 3rd key and fob, and so ended up not needing them. But I am curious if they are truly compatible with my Feb 2001 XJ8 VDP?
Does anyone know where I could get the rubber inserts for my OEM key fob? I just want to replace the worn off paint on the symbols thanks.
Depending on the model of your fob, you might be able to use the cheap Ford fobs and only use the rubber insert. The only problem is that the lock/unlock protrude just a tiny bit further than the originals, and you get a panic button instead of just a "light" button. I did it for the time being, just to see if it'd work, and until I can find some better replacement.
Just got one of these setup and it works flawlessly. It is indeed a "clicky" style button instead of the mushy contact switches on the old remotes. That's good, much more positive feel to know you actually pressed the button enough. Wish it was a bit bigger, the OEM one fits in the hand better, but beggars and choosers...
Just make sure to "cancel" (aka delete) the remote memory position recall for the new remote. With key in ignition, click the button labeled "memory" on the driver's door so the red LED lights up, and while that is lit, click any button on the remote twice. Car should make some funky bing noises to confirm, and now it will no longer try to recall seat position when you unlock with the new remote. I didn't realize this at first, and it tried to squish me into the steering wheel since a few of my seat potentiometers aren't working right.
So I bit the bullet & gave this vendor a whirl, it programmed 1st attempt & included the battery already installed. It also has a smaller footprint for less bulk in the pocket, I deem this a win for sub $50.
Just a tad confused now! My car is MY 1998 (X308) yet both my fobs have 433 Mhz written on the back, the part number also states LJA 2610 BB? But it seems this frequency and part number should be for later cars?
I have had problems with both my fobs, though they work, they do open the doors like ...'lazy'. If I do have the wrong fobs, would they still work, and if so, could it cause the slow action? All four buttons do what they're supposed to, and, they've worked a lot better since I fitted the single 2032 battery instead of the 2 x 2016's? (Think it was mentioned earlier in this Thread for M Stojanovic that the single 2032 has more output?)
Paul
The slow action would be the lock mechanism itself. The fob simply is a prompt activation and has no bearing on the "slow action" your experiencing. I would recommend pulling the door card and lubricating the mechanism.
Here's what another member just went through with his keys... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-door-215364/
....and here's another with build up.... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ically-214928/
Just a tad confused now! My car is MY 1998 (X308) yet both my fobs have 433 Mhz written on the back, the part number also states LJA 2610 BB? But it seems this frequency and part number should be for later cars?...If I do have the wrong fobs, would they still work, and if so, could it cause the slow action?
There were two types of "early" fobs, 315 Mhz and 433 Mhz. The parts catalogue does not show when (from what VIN) the change took place (my 1999 car also uses 433 Mhz LJA 2610 BB). The later cars (from VIN?, again not shown in the parts catalogue) use LJE 2610 BB which does not show the frequency at the back (I have a brand new one, bought by mistake; it does not work, i.e. cannot be paired).
A wrong fob will not work at all. The (not shown) frequency of the later LJE 2610 BB may also be 433 Mhz but it may have a different type of encoding of the unique "key code" assigned to the car. There is more than just the frequency: the frequency is the carrier wave which has the "key code" inserted into it by the fob's transmitter and sent out. The "key code" is stored in the fob's electronics during its pairing with the car (the "key code" of the car's transponder module is sent to the fob).
As others have said. There is no way a 433 MHz fob can "speak" to a 315 Mhz receiver - just like you can't get FM 89.7 when you are tuned to 105.3.
Regardless, if your Fobs can operate the car, the FOBs and car receiver are matched.
Expect your lazy function is more due to degraded contacts on the Fob than anything else. On my original units, that are both lazy and have v short range, if I use a metal object to short the contacts I can operate the functions faster and further away. The aftermarket unit I received this week is like a new unit and also operates from distance.
FWIW, I think people finding that a single CR2032 works better is due to the battery making better contact in the case, leading to a lower resistance electrical path, not because it delivers higher current as a design feature. If your Fob cases are like mine, I think that after 20 years of use, the stacked 2016's are not making a very efficient electrical path which, combined with the breakdown of the contact pads on the buttons, leads to a situation where the resistance in the cct is too high and the Fob isn't able to generate a good enough path (it has too much resistance) for the function to operate. In my case, the light function, that I never use, operates well on both original fobs, the door lock / unlock functions are the problems. A single 2032 only works because the Voltage requirement of the cct is less than the 3V a single battery puts out and the cct resistance is low enough for the Fob to operate - but once the 2032 degrades to the cutoff level of the electronics, it will stop working - in theory this will happen much faster than when 2 x 2016's are used as they need to degrade from 6V to the cutoff (and the batteries typically are designed to an internal cutoff of 2 V, so a single 2032 is operating close to the margins....It also means that the range & life of a single 2032 should drop pretty quickly compared to a new & healthy unit with 2x2016's
This was just what the Dr. ordered - and just in time. I was pressing the buttons 5-6 times to get the doors unlocked. The new e-bay unit worked perfectly and the programming instructions worked first time. Now I just need a good source for a spare key. Anybody know a way around the crazy prices on these?
The Fob arrived many days ago but my schedule hasn’t let up! Today is beautiful in NC so I decided to drive the XJR to work. Poor thing hasn’t been touched in weeks. There were no Fob programming instructions in the package and the web link provided had no info for my car. I looked in the early part of this thread and found directions. Took less than 10 seconds to program, worked the first time and works perfectly. $13.95 well spent. Thanks for the tip.
11-14-2018, 06:11 PM
