So I bit the bullet & gave this vendor a whirl, it programmed 1st attempt & included the battery already installed. It also has a smaller footprint for less bulk in the pocket, I deem this a win for sub $50.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1998-19...5/352437842314

 

Thanks KC, I was just talking to my Indy about this the other day...the $300 cost is a bit hard to swallow on a 19 yrs old car. That looks like the Ford fob, but I recall another member mentioning using the Ford one about a year or so ago, didn't see a follow up on if it was functional? I may just go ahead and do that myself,...gracias amigo. Did you get just the one or both?

 

Just one as I'm currently living dangerously w/ a single key.

Yea it synced up instantly & has great range thus far. I'd had a lot of issues w/ used OEMs w/ higher price tags, this is actually the 1st time I've had one program on the initial attempt lol.

 

Are these for the aj27 or aj26 cars? The earlier ones are a lot harder to come by, the later ones use a more common frequency, letting you do stuff like the x350 fob mod etc

 

I just know they are interchangeable w/ FOB model #s LJA2610AA & K8597T315 mine being the later.

 

I found he has a 2 fob purchase option also (which I got)... https://www.ebay.com/itm/352437840649 ...which is a few dollars off. I was down to my last fob and it was getting very intermittent again.

 

LJA2610AA (or LJA2610CA, high sensitivity version) are for early X308's, using frequency of 315 MhZ. LJA2610BA (superseded by LJA2610BB) is for later X308's, using frequency of 433 MhZ. The part number and the frequency is written on the back of the fob. The remote sold on Ebay is good as a replacement for the early 315 MhZ remotes.

 

And there you have it !

 

King Chaz thanks for posting this. I followed your lead and picked up two of these from ebay. I'm having trouble accessing the instructions though (per the card that came with the fobs) and the company is playing dumb with me. How did you program your new remotes?

 

 

Both my fobs are marked on the back as LJA2610BB, and 433.92 Mhz. Mine is an early (September 1998) car, so should I have the early 315 Mhz. fobs? Could this be the reason I need to press 5 or more times to get the car to open/lock, or am I just having the same issue with fobs as everyone else? lol

 

The changeover MY is 2001 in the US. The 1998 to 2000 use one kind of transmitter and then 2001-2003 for the other.

bob

 

Just ordered one as a back up to the only other one I have, just in case I lock the only key and fob I currently have in the car someday :-)

 

One more question on the aftermarket fobs, are the buttons "clicky" switches, or a soft contact press like the OEM fob?

Maybe you had the SLCM replaced at some point with a newer model year one which ran on the newer frequency?

 

If your 433 MhZ fob works (albeit after some 5 presses) then you have a 433 MhZ sistem and the 315 MhZ fob will not work at all. Try cleaning the touch pads on the circuit board and also try with a single CR2032 battery instead of two 2016-s.

 

I received a great tip from ericjansen. I got a small piece of silver foil (stole it from the kitchen) and used a hole punch to make 4 small round pieces of foil. Put a small amount of GEL superglue on the back of each button (must be GEL superglue so it doesn't run all over the place and ruin the fob altogether). Carefully put the foil pieces on the back of the buttons, press down to seal onto the button and leave overnight to make sure they're really dry. Fit the fob back together. Did mine, works first time every time!
Paul

 

Got my new FOB and may program after work, just checking it does not matter where old FOB is located when programing new, such as attached to key in the ignition while new is in hand during programming.

 

i programmed the two I bought while they were in my hand, while seated in the driver's seat, key in ignition. I don't see why the location of the FOB would matter, just easier to push the buttons when it wasn't attached to the key and behind the steering wheel.
I had seen something about programming multiple remotes at one sitting but elected to do mine one at a time. Not a lot going on in upstate NY so I have to pace myself!

 

Cant get mine to program, will continue to try tomorrow.
Contacted seller by chat at www.programtheremote.com and they recommended trying this but that didn't work for me either:
1. Enter the car and sit in the Drivers seat.
2. Place the key in the ignition.
3. Hold the headlight flasher arm back – the blue “high beam” light will come on the dashboard and the headlights will come on.
4. Keep holding the headlight flasher back and turn the ignition key to position 1.
5. Release the flasher, and then flash the headlights FOUR TIMES. You will hear a “Beep” AND/OR see a small red light illuminate briefly on the Gear Selector on the fourth flash of the headlight – this is to confirm that the car has entered programming mode.
6. Program each transmittor (up to FIVE fobs can be programmed) by pressing any button on the fob. You will hear a “Beep” AND/OR see the red light on the Gear Selector with each press of a button.
7. The car must “Beep” or red light flash five times to complete programming. Therefore, if you are only programming one transmitter you should operate the transmitter 5 times.If you are programming two transmitters you will operate one transmitter twice, and three times on the other.
8. Wait for the car to exit programming – this will be indicated by a final “Beep” AND/OR the red light on the Gear Selector.
9. The remotes are now ready to use.

 

Mine programmed the very first attempt using the above instructions. I for one am thoroughly enjoying, having a functional FOB lol.