I am going to look into knocking up the radio mount for single din and double din sizes in fusion. Would there be any interest in the model if I manage to make and it fits properly?

I would either make it free for forum members and request it not leak from him to get forum ad traffic, or buy me a coffee here is my paypal thing.

 

To make a double din fit, you'd need to modify the support brace behind the dash the climate controls and that's somewhat tight but doable.

As for single din...https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-piece-165345/

 

not always, it depends what unit you buy
for example, there are a lot of Chinese Android headunits that have a double din screen but single din chassis, and even some more reputable brands too, like my Alpine iLX-702D, which looks like this in the back

 

Yeah, King Charles has that, but it's still a single din chasis, as is similar to your example... the Pioneer DMH-WT3800NEX, which was a thought of mine a couple years ago. But the shift knob engaging it was my concern, my Clarion already is tight with the screen out. But the adjustable angle allows it clearance.
But I've since decided the phone screens are more advantageous to position using a mount like STEELIE or similar mag mount. I already have been using the STEELIE in both my vehicles for years, but that depends on your preference.

Here's a post with Amphicar's and King Charles large fixed screens... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...my-xjr-240202/

 

I think you can get a newer media reciever with a shallow mount depth mounted.

Currently I have 2 models. I ran out of time to continue working on it as I was taking time to try to learn fusion 360 and tinker with this idea on my birthday weekend and then had to get back to work.
So I took the 3d scans and sketches i had and hired someone to hiniish them up for me.

I have a hollow mount style like the one that you can order from the UK and then a contoured mount to try to follow the center console.

The advantage of this approach is once you pick your headunit you can position the opening exactly where you want and edit the model to use the mounting method you want.

On the contured mount I have a slight recess that should allow for a thin veneer to be placed if wanted.

 

It looks pretty good, don't forget the guide pins on the bottom, they hold the weight of the unit. Have you taken yours out yet to view the placement? On the bottom is where the transmission tunnel flares out and the base of the unit lives at a slight angle. My Clarion just and I mean just sits properly with it's depth. What comes to mind for me for your CAD is an insert to pick up a full length single DIN say 0.05".

Your design would also afford round mounts like the Kicker 46KMC2 marine unit. Or other marine units like the Fusion MS-RA670, 5.125" (w) x 1.9375" (h) x 4.125" (d). I really like the anti-glare on the marine systems.

But it would be really applicable to units like the JL Audio MMR-40 which interfaces (say in the trunk with the amp) with the JL Audio MM105-HR. All those are available to see on Crutchfield.

 

So for a double din unit i think something like the Alpine iLX-407 which is only 72.5 mm deep woul mount in just fine.
The contured mount is actually completely solid in the model I just used tiinker cad to knock 2 quick square holes.
One all the way through at an angle and another that would give a place to llock the mounting basket tabs to.





For the weight I was looking into possibly putting some holes in the flats and using trim pins of some kind to hold it.

I also see some holes that are horizontal to the radio that I could add an extention to the mount left and right to help support the weight.

I need to do a test print to see how it fits but i am waiting on a new control board for my 3d printer
it will be a long print job

 

Those pins are soft to allow the ribs to slide in and that means the whole piece is soft and will eventually sag and/or collapse. If you can bend it with your finger it will bend after installation.
Go to Harbor Freight and pick up a variety pack which have split pins which are harder and more supportive.
https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ece-57671.html
But try to use the support areas you have existing, it will save you a lot of re-engineering. If you don't support the top two mounting ears enough, they will break in due time from the inertia of daily driving to the sun dry rotting it as in my pics of why I replaced mine and as I see in your other thread about the bulbs in your climate control you're dealing with such. It would almost assuredly make noise as well if not secured. You could probably build some offsets (metal/aluminum braces if you will, perhaps use some box tubing for rigidity) to bring the bottom mounting points further out to simplify from adding to your design. Here we are re-engineering...

 

There was a revived thread a while back on this topic and there is an aftermarket radio fascia/mount available for the X308 chassis.

That thread is here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-piece-165345/

Link to XJ8 fascia/mount is here: https://connects2.com/Product/ProductItem/CT24JG06 Connects2 appears to focus on the UK market and for those of us in the US, one might need to contact one of the online resellers unless you've got a UK-based contact that could go to one of the resellers with a physical presence.

 

I'd absolutely love the file. But I'm not going to use it for a stereo. I'm going to combine it with my iPad Mini 6 mount. This would save me a heap of work that I was going to attempt this weekend.

I bypassed the factory amplifier with a Down4Sound DSP and amplifiers. I run everything bluetooth from my iPad.

I created a "dock" using the cassette tape slot and 3d printed it on my Bambu Lab A1. I'll have to attach a picture later since I'm on my work computer at the moment.

I can print it and let you know if I have any issues.

 

Let me know what I can do to get that file from you. This would save me a lot of work ive been screwing up on for a while trying to get my iPad Mini 6 mounted in my dash since I'm not using the stock headunit anyway.

 

If you notice, that's my thread and the link is in Post #2...all good though. Glad to see others have seen it for reference.

 

I'd like to get this file from you. Let me know how I can pay you or get it from you. I can test it on my Bambu Lab printer.

 

You've got mail.

If people want to donate that is cool. I know I would have found it useful if someone just posted it so that is my eventual plan once I can confirm fit or confirm it is close enough.

I may start a new thread for 3d print files

 

I'd post it in The Marketplace and sell the schematic, may as well make some money and save others the time doing what you have. There's obvious interest and if you don't care if you charge them, it's more likely it is seen in The Marketplace anyways.

 

I shot the files over to jxkey. If they can confirm the mounting points and face light up with the trim i will post them up there for donation or free.

 

it’s close but not quite there. Can’t get it into place very well.

 

Looks like the top points are a bit too recessed possible? Can you give me some measurements and the points where the need to be adjusted so I can see about making adjustments?

 

Got my printer part!

I adjusted the model and my plans a bit.

I was orignally loking at the alpine thin units that use the power stack since it would be the thinest unit on the market as far as i know of.

But i got this pioneer unit for free with the white screen problem so i fixed it.

the pioneer DMH-160bt and NEX-1770 i believe are the same unit.

most of these units that are mechless are 1 din worth of electronics and only the screen is what is 2 din.











the last image is it just sitting in the slot. i can already tell I will likely need to adjust the top corner mount points a bit

 

Looks fantastic! Only suggestion is to try to get the unit as vertical as possible, with the top of the screen as close to the aircon controls, as this will help avoid glare on the screen