Got my x308 almost roadworthy again after it sat for 3 years but still have one problem with the power to the rear of the car which unless I press and hold the rear wiring loom it doesn't get power to anything minus the fuel pump. It's held on pretty strongly but it just doesn't get power unless a good amount of pressure is applied. Any ideas on how to fix this both my s types are down right now so would love to get back in the XJ while those are getting fixed

 

I got it to stay relatively stable while sitting real question is can I use a suicide fuse on the break lights? Also is the front and rear driver's side turn signals on the same fuse neither are working which is odd

 

Did you actually repaired the loom or just wedged it to somewhere ?

 

Wedged 2 magazines between the fuel tank and connector. Haven't had any luck with the break lights yet

 

We might have some suggestions if we could have a picture of where you are
applying pressure.

 

I had same issue, I think, based on your description. The terminal connection at the top of the trunk bulkhead is held in place with tension using a plastic locking lever. The lock on mine broke when reconnecting. The plastic is very brittle. I bought a used harness off Ebay planning to re-run all the wires and connectors. After 30 minutes of staring at the trunk area, tracing the wire paths, and realizing what a huge pain this was, I decided to see if I could swap out the lock from the used harness. It worked perfectly. I went slow and gentle when removing and installing the lock. I spent a lot on the used harness. I wish I would have thought of my solution first and tried to find a damaged harness for much cheaper.

I found a photo of the terminal/harness that caused my issue. Like your issue, I could "wedge" it and everything would work. But that would only last until a bump or vibration caused it to work itself loose again. Then, no fuel pump...

 

That is like the BT4 connector on the same chassis X300 with the inline 6

Is the sheet metal cutout in the way from fully connecting it together ?

This is where the lock over bar post on the car side break so don't try too hard

What year is it ?

There is a fuel pump " control " power from the left heelboard fuse box passing through that connector and the engine ECM provides a ground to close the fuel pump relay to have muscle power pass to the fuel pump

Suggest having a jumper wire to bridge socket 3 to 5 least be stranded , this will drain the battery with the keys in your pocket as socket 3 is directly wired to the battery not using the connector above the fuel tank

suggest blade type connectors on the heavy gauge wire the auto parts store can help fabricate , blade type connectors ensure current to properly run the pump

 

Remember, Jag has constant positive voltage at all the relays switches. It is the negative ground that is controlled and completes the circuit. I learned this this the hard way, especially in the trunk relays. Even if your harness is completely disconnected at the bulkhead, the relays will still show 14 volts on the relay and switch side. Very confusing and hard to diagnose if you are accustomed to USA wiring systems.

 

Your turn signal is labeled as DI ,,,,,direction indicator

Which do you see as the suicide fuse if in the rear lights pic

I will be modifying the pic to include the fuse locations in green color

 

Yeah the lock over bar was not the best engineering for that connection point. I suspect it
was engineered to the 20 year longevity point.

 

How'd you manage to fix to remove the lock I tried but the plastic started to snap?

 

and as a side note still haven't able to get break lights, radio, or left turn signals (front or back to come on)

 

I figured that out when my rear fog lights wouldn't turn off till I unplugged the battery never seen that before

 

Looks like you took your lock over bar off. The hinge is oval shaped. I was able to open it all the way and the holes in the bar aligned with the oval shaped hinge so that I could easily pry the bar off the hinge with a small flat head. Very gentle prying. The used harness plastic was in decent shape and would flex. Once the bar is off, the locking slides fall right out. Then you have to guess which way they go back in.

 

Yes, and without that lockover bar, I am really unsure how you would ever get a firm connection to all
the electric contacts in that harness.

 

When you get done with the multi pin connector tie wrap the bar in the lock posotion least it migrate back open

I think it is a common practice item on this connector

 

Mines been a Texas car it's whole life the plastic is insanely brittle I tried pulling it off and already broke one a piece of plastic off

 

depin and install into used connector shells

or 54 heat shrink butt connectors..

 

I decided just to swap harnesses since I already had one and the removal of the original didn't take to long maybe only an hour and a half including removing the rear seats. (Made about a 1.20$ doing that) now am I gonna have some security system issues when putting the new one in. I'd rather swap a module than completely recode my car if that's difficult

 

Just ran into my first problem. The wiring from the 1998 xj8 I got the fuse box out of and my 2003 have different fuel pump adapters. gonna see if the junkyard has any 98 adapters and I'll either use that or splice the wires. Also seems like the license plate lights have different connectors too other than that it's going fairly smoothly