Rear Lights Stay On/ Car Won't Start with Jump?
Would anybody know what happen here: I had a problem with the Rear Lights Staying On with the light switch off. I was traveling on the road to a job. I got to my job turn off the key, light switch off and both rear lights still stayed on. I thought I could take the bulbs out because I figured it drain the battery by time the meeting was over. So I took both rear bulbs out. After meeting car won't start, I guess it was still draining battery even with bulbs out? Anyway, car now won't even start with a jump? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated? I'm stuck out in the country.
Last edited by Don B; Feb 20, 2015 at 10:01 PM.
If a battery is very weak, sometimes it needs to have the donor battery hooked up
for a while to help bring up the capacity before trying to start.
The SLCM, security and locking control module under the trunk fusebox also
controls some of the rear lights. You may have a defective module given the
light bulb incident.
for a while to help bring up the capacity before trying to start.
The SLCM, security and locking control module under the trunk fusebox also
controls some of the rear lights. You may have a defective module given the
light bulb incident.
I am with plums. I will bet you drained the battery. Then your jumper cables are probably inadequate, or you have not made a good connection to the batteries with them.
If that is not the case, you may have a more serious problem with the BPM. I sure hope not since they are a PITA to replace.
When you say, won't start", do you mean won't crank? What happens when you turn the key?
If that is not the case, you may have a more serious problem with the BPM. I sure hope not since they are a PITA to replace.
When you say, won't start", do you mean won't crank? What happens when you turn the key?
Last edited by sparkenzap; Feb 17, 2015 at 07:33 PM.
I'll look into both your replies. thanks
When I say won't start... even when turn the key while trying to jump and doesn't even try to start, no sound from starter or engine; its totally dead.
"you may have a more serious problem with the BPM"
Whats the the BPM?
When I say won't start... even when turn the key while trying to jump and doesn't even try to start, no sound from starter or engine; its totally dead.
"you may have a more serious problem with the BPM"
Whats the the BPM?
Last edited by Don B; Feb 20, 2015 at 10:02 PM.
Mechanic where its broke down at says it needs a Security Locking Module (SLM). And that Jaguar don't make them anymore. And he believes you can't get it aftermarket either? Is that correct? That you have to get them used.
Would any jaguars from the Jaguar Models (Modern) group use the same SLM? Like the XJR (X308)? I assume this one does since my XJ8 is a X308... ?
Or the
(X350 & X358) XJ6 XJ8 XJR
(X305) XJ12
(X300) XJR
X-Type
S Type / S Type R
???
Would any jaguars from the Jaguar Models (Modern) group use the same SLM? Like the XJR (X308)? I assume this one does since my XJ8 is a X308... ?
Or the
(X350 & X358) XJ6 XJ8 XJR
(X305) XJ12
(X300) XJR
X-Type
S Type / S Type R
???
Last edited by Ben7; Feb 19, 2015 at 10:04 AM.
Check with ASI to see if they repair them. They are able to repair just about all the modules.
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There are some rules with regard to versions.
The word VCATS will appear in the posts discussing it, so search on that.
VCATS refers to a label in the trunk pasted to the spare tire well which
details the exact versions that were installed in your vehicle. If it is
missing, a dealer can bring up a printout of the same data with your
VIN.
There may also be some programming involved requiring access to
IDS/SDD. A dealer and many specialists will have it and it can also
be bought for under $100.
If you've never used IDS/SDD, this is not the time to start learning.
The word VCATS will appear in the posts discussing it, so search on that.
VCATS refers to a label in the trunk pasted to the spare tire well which
details the exact versions that were installed in your vehicle. If it is
missing, a dealer can bring up a printout of the same data with your
VIN.
There may also be some programming involved requiring access to
IDS/SDD. A dealer and many specialists will have it and it can also
be bought for under $100.
If you've never used IDS/SDD, this is not the time to start learning.
I have installed the SCLM from my MY 99 XJR into my MY 02 XJ8 with no problem whatsoever, except that the fob had to follow the module because they are on a different frequency band. No VCATS match, no reprogramming, nothing. So hit fleabay and buy one for less than $100., preferably from the same model year or get the remote with it and(assuming that is the problem) you will be "good to go". Or call bob.
Is there any difference between the ones that say LNC2600HD and LNC2600HE?
And if I buy one that doesn't have the remote, would it better to get the HD because thats what mine has on it. Or will the remote I have work with the HE?
And if I buy one that doesn't have the remote, would it better to get the HD because thats what mine has on it. Or will the remote I have work with the HE?
Last edited by Ben7; Feb 20, 2015 at 01:01 PM.
Actually I misheard the mechanic, mine is actually a HB. And I ordered a HE, the car will unlock and drive now but the Key FOB want work; but least I'm able to drive the car. Maybe I'll go back and try to find a HB to get the Key FOB to work. Or get the old one repaired? The mechanic said he tried reprogram the Key FOB with a procedure from youtube but it didn't work. Any suggestions on getting the Key FOB to work?
Yep, as I said earlier, the frequency band of the Fob changed, so you either have to get a fob to match your SCLM, or get a SCLM to match your fob, or get your original SCLM repaired. Check the archives for a repair facility.
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