There probably is a special tool, but not necessary. Just use a hammer and a large common screwdriver, drift punch other blunt instrument to tap on either side of the locking ring to rotate it.

 

Yes, screwdriver and hammer, careful but firm tapping on the tabs to rotate that locking ring.

 

I wouldn’t use the sender unit. Simply use the fuel filter method and use the fuel pump to get it all out like I did above.

 

Hi MJSS,

You may save yourself some time and trouble by using the procedure described in post #7.

Cheers,

Don

 

I had this problem with my 1999 XJR. I bought online a simple plastic tube pump device that I could push into the filler hole and hand pump every last drop of fuel that was about 9 months old- about half a full tank, into several small containers. I have now filled it with 98 octane and some Redex fuel improver. Unfortunately i drove the car for about 15 miles, so we are investigating new plugs and a new catalytic converter-it still had the original one after 128k miles!

 

Hi Stephenph,

What were the symptoms that caused you to suspect a catalytic converter requires replacement?

Cheers,

Don

 

I took it to a local Jaguar trained specialist who checked the engine was OK, and the fresh fuel is working, but performance is very lumpy, and although they did a brief test, and suggested new spark plugs, first remedy, as they are likely to have been, contaminated. They feel they need to get it up on a ramp and do tests to check the catalytic converter, as stale fuel could have contaminated the fume extraction of the Cat C.. Its not certain, but a four hour check rather than half an hour on the computer /4 full as usual. Been using my wonderful Tesla , (until the main battery failed-replaced under 8 year warranty!), so XJR standing still with battery disconnected.might sort out the problem! Do you think this is unlikely?The old fuel was quite brown in colour. eight months ago petrol prices were low so I filled her 3/4 full, not 1/4 as usual with a visit to the local garage first stop on a trip..

 

If the engine was misfiring one or both cats could have been damaged.... The shop can test for back pressure in the cats. Were any diagnostic trouble codes stored, such as misfire codes?

Cheers,

Don

 

Recently, I have seen cars that would shut down due to catalytic restriction. Who knows what
they are adding to the gasoline before it reaches the pump which could ultimately contaminate
the cats. In most cases though, you would get a code that indicated the cats were not operating
efficiently, which gives you some indication of trouble.

 

Fuel that age shouldn't do the things you're imagining - I dug mine out after being left through Covid, over 2 years - half a tank of Shell V power, then added a green fuel can to mix the old and new gas, fired right up - I got a knock sensor and O2 code, the KS cleared on 2nd startup but the upper O2 needed changing.
The Cat's can work perfectly up to 300K, but their sensors are like spark plugs and will go out long before the catalysts do, there's 2 cats, one for each bank. Not sure if your car's engine is AJ26 which have 2 x O2 sensors, or an AJ27 engine which has 4, pre and post cat - my money is on the sensors, not the cats. 15 miles isn't even enough time to get the car up to temp in some cases.